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leonard_robertson

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Posts posted by leonard_robertson

    Zone VI Modified Meters

    in Large Format

    Posted

    As I recall, one of the primary Zone VI mods was a special infrared filter. I believe Fred Picker claimed "standard" meters will give a much different reading (for some subjects) in late afternoon light compared with mid-day light. Green follage readings in particular are supposed to vary with the amount of IR present (important to a landscape photographer). If you can compare your meter readings with another, non-modified meter, and get quite a difference in late day light, I would take it as a good indication your meter has been modified. In other words, at mid-day, both meters would come close to the same reading, but late in the day, they would vary in readings of the same subject. I've never had one of the modified meters, so I've never tested the idea.

    8X20 back for an 8X10 camera?

    in Large Format

    Posted

    In answer to the previous topic "Using an 8x10 to 4x5 reducing back",

    George Losse mentions "I do use my 8x20 back for the 8x10 camera a lot

    in the field...". George (or anyone else), how about details and

    pictures (if possible) of what you are using? I've considered an

    extension back for my Eastman 2D, but wondered about using shorter FL

    lenses and using camera movements.

    Gundlach-Manhattan Portrait Camera

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    David - The pictures you posted of your camera seem similar in style to the pre-1900 era ones shown on this page: http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/index.html

    Front and rear standards the same size and very little hardware are the main similarities. The one difference in your camera is the rather large opening for the lens board. This is something I've seen more on later date (post 1900s) portrait cameras. I suppose it is possible your camera is a later date camera but an inexpensive model without camera movements. I sometimes see on eBay cameras of the type shown on the dcolucci page listed above. If you have time to spend, try searching on eBay in the Vintage and/or Large Format categories for Wood camera, Wooden camera or Portrait camera. You will have to look at a lot of cameras, but eventually someone may list one like yours. It is possible your camera is British or European make. There may be collector's websites showing non-US made cameras, but I haven't run across them. Does your back measure an actually 5X7 inches? If it is some odd size, that might indicate a non-US made camera.

    Manuals for Rolleiflex 3.5F and Mamiyaflex c2

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I very much appreciate seeing the Mamiyaflex C2 manual. I have an original C (single focusing knob), a very similar camera, and actually learned a couple of things I didn't know from seeing the information you posted. I like the way you posted thumbnail pictures of each page. I recently was looking at an online manual for an Omega Chromega B color head. It was indexed only by page numbers, so to view a particular page, I had to wait for each page to load in order to see if that was the page I was looking for. Also, the quality of your scans is much better than the other site. Thank you for doing a great service for the rest of us. I'm rather curious, did you post the Mamiyaflex manual because you are a user of the C2 yourself?

    Gundlach-Manhattan Portrait Camera

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    David - When you say your camera has virtually no hardware on it, do you mean the hardware has been removed, or it doesn't appear ever to have had hardware? I know some of the studio and portrait cameras didn't have any front movements, hence no front hardware. Does your camera have geared focusing, with brass racks on either side of the bed, or just the brass lever you mentioned? Does the bed on your camera fold up, or is it one long piece? I was just looking at the fiberq.com site and it doesn't appear he includes many of the studio/portrait type cameras. If this is what you have, you may not find it on that site. I have an 8X10 Century studio camera that I don't see on the fiberq site. The front standard is fixed to the bed and has no movements. The rear standard slides along the bed to rough focus, then a swinging handle is clamped down to fine focus with. It does have rear tilt and swing. The corners of the front and rear standards don't have any metal pieces over them like most of the wood field cameras have. Does that sound somewhat like your camera?

    Folmer Graflex 5X7 Tailboard Studio Camera

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    David - Here is a site that may help you identify your camera: http://www.fiberq.com/cam/ekc.htm On the left side of the page is a list of American camera makers. Click on a makers name and you will get a page of models from that maker. Click on a particular model to see nice detailed photos of it. It will take you some time, but you should be able to get a good idea what camera you have. Once you determine the years your camera was made, you can tell if your lens you have might have come with the camera. One book I have shows Regno shutters being made from 1908 to 1918, so that may give you an idea when the lens was made.

    Film for Graflex Series D

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Bob - Nearly all the Graflex reflex cameras came with what is termed a Graflex back. It has a fixed metal bar on one side of the camera back and a sliding metal bar on the other side. The film holder is tucked under the fixed bar and secured with the sliding bar. Graflex made a special double sided sheet film holder to fit these backs. It is wider (5" wide) than a standard sheet film holder (4 11/16"), and has an 1/8" groove milled in the edge of the holder (this is where the metal bars fit). It also has a groove across the face of the holder at the end where the darkslide inserts, rather than the raised ridge a standard 4X5 holder has. These Graflex holders take any normal 4X5 sheet film. Ebay is probably the most likely place to find them, although be sure the holders have the slot along the edge. Graflex sold many standard film holders, so something listed as a "Graflex" holder may not be what you need. Another way to go would be the Graflex magazines, fondly known as "bag-mags". These are a box magazine holding 12 thin metal septums that are loaded with regular sheet film. The magazine attaches to the camera back just like a sheet film holder. After each exposure, the exposed septum is pulled out into the lightproof leather "bag" at the end of the magazine and slid behind the rest of the septums. "Bag-mags" actually work rather well, but are considered "old and weird" by people who haven't used them. Also, they only fit the Graflex back, so can't be used on most 4X5 cameras. This is good because it makes them pretty inexpensive to buy. If you find one to buy, be sure the septums are flat, not bent, and the leather "bag" is intact and lightproof. "Bag-mags" are great if you are in dusty conditions - you can shoot 12 shots without removing the magazine from the camera. Also less bulky compared to 6 double-sided sheet film holders. Again, eBay is a good place to look for these.

    Frame of Mind... Odd Formats

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Ann - An extension back for an 8X10 camera would be cheap and quick to have fabricated (compared to having an entire camera made). The added extension would be good if you like long FL lenses; bad if want to shoot more with wide angles. A little more involved would be finding an 8X10 Eastman, Deardorff, whatever, with a bad bellows and grafting a new rear standard, back and bellows onto it. As Steve said, the rear standard only needs to be about one inch wider each way for 7X11.

    If you want to spend the time to find 7X11 equipment on eBay, it does show up. Within the last year, I have found four holders and a 7X11 Eastman 2D (although the camera needs a fair amount of work). If you want to get going with 7X11 as quickly as possible, I'd consider modifying an 8X10 camera. You are on the right track - 7X11 is "more better" than 8X10, at least for many subjects.

    Kodak 2D Accessory Backs

    in Large Format

    Posted

    As far as I know, there wasn't a 7X11 back made for the 8X10 2D. Eastman made a 7X11 version of the 2D that was slightly larger and heavier than the 8X10. My 8X10 2D back is 11 5/8" square; my 7X11 back is 12 3/4" square. Of course an extension adapter back can be made to fit a 7X11 back to an 8X10 2D. Here is a site with great photos of the 7X11 2D: http://www.fiberq.com/cam/ekc/2d.htm

    I agree with Jim regarding the 7X11 ratio being better than the 8X10 ratio for many subjects. It is too bad it is so much trouble finding holders for 7X11.

    I have an mid-1950s B&J catalog that lists reducing backs B&J made for the 8X10 2D, so you might find one of those, but I suspect it will be easier to find one made by Kodak. They seem to show up on eBay fairly often. It seems to me the 5X7 backs are more common than the 4X5s. I tried fitting the back from my 8X10 Ansco on my 8X10 2D and it is slightly smaller (and doesn't have pins like a 2D back). I suspect the Master View back won't fit a 2D, but Kodak made a metal camera very similar to the 2D which may have the same size back as the wooden 2D.

    Large Format SLR

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Kevin is correct about the Gowland SLR (that is the actual name on the front of the camera). I have one and it is a rather strange beast. It doesn't have a hinged, full sized mirror like a Graflex. It has a small mirror right behind the lens that moves to the side when the shutter release is tripped. The shutter is part of this sliding mechanism and is a single speed - I think 1/60 or 1/125. I spoke with Mr. Gowland several years ago and he said the camera was built mainly for use with electronic flash. The single speed wouldn't be such a drawback for flash use. He also said the camera was never very popular (due to the single shutter speed in my opinion). I would love to know how many were actually made. I bought mine without a lens. I think it was sold with a barrel mount 240mm Xenar (not Tele-Xenar), and I've never found a deal on one of these, so I've never used the camera, although I think I'll mount another barrel lens and try it.

    longest possible lens on a Speed Graphic?

    in Large Format

    Posted

    I checked my 12" barrel mount Artar on a 4X5 Pacemaker Crown Graphic. At full extension I could focus to about 10 1/2 feet. Depending on where the flange is located on the barrel of your Nikkor, you may be able to focus about the same. "Graphic Graflex Photography" lists the Pacemaker Speed having 1/4" more extension than the Crown I have, so that will work in your favor. If you need to focus right down to 10 feet you may need to make a short extension tube.

    DURST 401 Labator 1000

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Here are a couple of sites for Durst: http://www.durst.it/uk/faq.htm http://www.jobo-usa.com/bulletins/b030.htm

    I suspect if you go to http://www.google.com/grphp?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q= and do a search for that Durst model, you will find some information. Also, http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-one-category?topic_id=1542&category=Enlargers

    is worth looking through.The larger size Dursts aren't as common as Beseler and Omega, so negative carriers and other pieces won't be as easy to find. I've never had a 4X5 or larger Durst, but nearly everything I've read has been quite positive. However, you might check the site listed above that gives sevice information. There isn't much to worry about with the chassis, but the color head might be another story. There may be someone other than Durst who can work on the color head, but I don't know who.

    500c body '61, jammed, help. Plus, NC-2 paint question

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I imagine Hasselblad wants to bring the mechanism back to "as new" condition (to protect their reputation, as well as get your money). You need to find an independent repair person who can fix it to a "usable" standard. Maybe all the gears are as bad as Hasselblad NJ says, but a second opinion can't hurt. After your first post, I searched eBay "Completed Auctions". I don't know if your 500C was one that included a rapid wind crank and waist-level finder, but if you list those seperately on eBay and the body as a parts camera, you might not lose much money. As Barry said, reasonable 500CM bodies are available on eBay. Thanks for sharing your experience with us, too. Keep us updated on how you come out.

    Leonard

    View camera lens on a Flexbody?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    My 1996 Hasselblad Product Catalog shows #40037 "Lens mount adapter", "Intended for attaching special-purpose lenses, such as for photomicrography, to the camera." The catalog picture shows a round aluminum cylinder with lens flange on the back. You would have to have it machined for your purpose. I don't know if this item is still in the product line, or the cost. The rear part of an extension tube or microscope attachment could probably be adapted to hold a lens board. Rodenstock and Schneider should be able to give you exact measurements from lens flange to film plane so you can judge if you can achieve infinity focus.

    500c body '61, jammed, help. Plus, NC-2 paint question

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Myron - Try the link Pablo gives above. However, the unjamming refered to there seems to be lens jammed on the body, so I wonder if you have something broken, not just stuck. If you can find a copy of "Camera Maintenance & Repair" by Thomas Tomosy at a bookstore or camera store, look at the page or so on 500CM repair. It shows how to take the innards out of the outer shell, shows how to make a spanner to unscrew the plate behind the wind knob, refers to "cocking bevel-gears broken" (which might be your problem), and other information which might help you. Also there are reprint Hasselblad repair manuals on eBay all the time, but I've never seen one so I don't know how worthwhile they are. Tomosy has a little info on removing and reglueing leatherette, too. If you send the body to someone to be worked on, it would be the time to consider having a brighter focusing screen installed. Bill Maxwell's screens are always highly recommended. When I spoke with Bill a couple of years ago, he mentioned he does Hasselblad repair. He highly recommended I have my 500C cleaned and lubed if I sent it in for a screen replacement. I actually never got around to doing it; I bought a 500CM body instead. Finally, I'm sure glad you are buying all these "deals" on eBay, so I don't. I have a serious problem with buying "projects". I've been eyeing scruffy prisms on eBay, buy so far have been able to resist. Leonard

    Korona 8x20 rear extension rail

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Skip,

    As far as finding the metal gear tracks (called "racks" in machinist lingo), you need to find out if smaller format Koronas take the same size. This worked for me for an 11X14 ROC. At a photo swap meet I found an entire bed from a 5X7 ROC for $25 with same size racks. I suppose there is a slim chance the 8X10 Korona used the same entire rear extension, but the 8X20 is probably wider. However if the side pieces and racks are the same and you just had to widen an 8X10, it would be easier than building from scratch. Racks can be purchased new from gear suppliers. Boston Gear is one company I can think of. You might search Google for them and see if they have an online catalog. I suspect brass racks aren't going to be as easy to find as steel or aluminum. Finally, I don't see anything wrong with an ungeared rear extension, at least until you find racks, other than front focusing being quite a reach when you lean back far enough to see the ground glass. I don't know how Koronas lock down on the bed, so I can't give you any ideas on doing that. Leonard

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