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chris_eve

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Posts posted by chris_eve

    Using Cokin 89B infrared filter

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Kodak recommend 1/60 @ f/8 (or equivalent, EV12) for an 89B in good sunlight with this film. I've found this to be a little conservative, at their recommended development of 8.5min in D76. I'd recommend EV13 as a good starting point, assuming open sunlight. I don't bother with a meter for infra-red work. The sun is a fairly constant light source, so exposure varies very little! Open up a stop or two in open shade or within an hour of sunset/sunrise and you'll not go far wrong.

     

    You might find my web-page http://user.itl.net/~kypfer/infra_red.htm of use.

    Jupiter 9 on an M body question

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    As others have noted, this lens was almost certainly produced originally for use on the Zenit 3m (or similar). The 3m was my first "real" camera, so I'm familiar with it's foibles ;-) The back register on the 3m is the same as a "normal" M42 SLR, so one can easily adapt 3m lenses for use on a Pentax/Praktica etc with a threaded collar, 39mm on the inside, 42mm on the outside ... I've got one. One can also adapt 42mm lenses for use on a 39mm "Leica-type" r/f camera, by use of a suitable adaptor, as I'm sure most of you are aware ... I've got one of those as well ;-) So I can use the Industar-50 from my 3m on my Zorki, albeit without r/f coupling, though I prefer my collapsible Industar.

    Lubitel 2 query

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    My Lubitel 2 was a joy :-) A little soft in the corners wide open, but stopped down a bit, nice and crisp. Definitely benefitted from a lens hood. One problem : the shutter cocking lever is so close to the shutter release lever that (too often) both happen at the same time :-( ... so I cut off the release lever and used a cable release !! Never did trust the catches for the camera back, so I kept it in it's case. This would have contributed to the lack of any light leaks.

    Red 25 v. 29 for infrared and general B&W photography.

    in Accessories

    Posted

    I don't have a 29, but my side-by-side "tests" using a 25, both on "normal" b&w film, (FP4) and several i/r films (SFX, HIE, Konica & Maco) indicate that the results achived are very similar ... my conclusion being that using a 25 with i/r film is an expensive option, far better i/r effects being obtained with an 89B.

     

    As always, your mileage may vary, but just because you get a pleasing effect using a 25 with i/r film doesn't mean you couldn't have achieved the same result with conventional film.

     

    For HIE, I'd definitely recommend an 87 filter. It's an expensive film and seems silly not to make the most of it's i/r capabilities (that most other i/r films can't manage).

    Processing Kodachrome as B&W?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Kodachrome will process as b&w, but you'll be left with a VERY dense orange mask, which presumably is bleached out in the conventional colour process. With this added to the (inevitable?) extra density of an old film, the resultant negative can be VERY difficult to print/scan.

     

    You may be able to bleach out some of the orange to improve your chances of a printable neg, but practice on the film leader before risking a "real" negative.

    Retina 1b problem with shutter

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Remember, when/if replacing the cocking rack, to investigate the original cause of the failure. The shutter itself is probably in need of a CLA, thereby putting extra strain on the cocking mechanism. A replacement rack with no other work, though a "quick and dirty" solution, is likely to result in another failed rack before too long, and they're not cheap!! A Retina in good order should wind as sweetly and smoothly as any other camera. Any stiffness at all should be an indication of other work being required.

    using a zeiss tessar lens m42 mount on Nikon

    in Accessories

    Posted

    Nikons, unfortunately, are one of the few cameras that cannot be easily adapted for M42 lenses, as the lense-flange to film-plane distance on the Nikon is greater than that of the Pentax/Praktica type cameras. As you've noted, the lens will only focus relatively closely. Adaptors are available which include an optical element to correct for the difference, but the lens then acts as a short telephoto, not as it's original focal length.

    110 film options?

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    Film options have been previously noted, but if you're going to go with the 110 route, try and check out a Kodak Mini-Instamatic S-30 http://user.itl.net/~kypfer/110/mini-s30.htm ... no batteries, great lens, metal body and looks like a "real" spy camera ;-) The similar, but slightly more sophisticated S-40 http://user.itl.net/~kypfer/110/mini-s40.htm needs an obsolete battery.

     

    As for 110 quality ... check out my little contribution to the concept on http://www.toptown.com/nowhere/kypfer/Scotland/index.htm .

     

    My personal chioice for a compact pocketable camera usually tends towards one of my Olympus XA 35mm cameras, though my Advantix T500 APS camera http://user.itl.net/~kypfer/aps/advxt500.htm runs a very close second.

    Question regarding russian lenses

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    OK ... let's see if we can simplify (or confuse) this issue even further ;-)

     

    39mm screw-thread lenses as manufactured for the Zenit 3m SLR (let's call them Z39 lenses) will function completely, within their limitations of non-auto aperture, on a Pentax-Practika type 42-screw body WITH THE CORRECT ADAPTOR, which comprises simply a ring with a 39mm thread on the inside and a 42mm thread on the outside. The Z39 lenses have the same lens-flange to film-plane distance as a "conventional" M42 lens ... therefore they can be easily further adapted to many other cameras, once fitted with the 39-42 ring, by using an appropriate M42 to whatever adaptor. I've got the lenses, I've got the camera, I've got the adaptors, and yes, I can use my Industar 50 from my original Zenit 3m (c1969, and my first slr), on my Pentax *ist or my Fujica AX5 and it does focus to infinity!!

     

    39mm screw-thread lenses as manufactured for the Fed-Zorki rangefinder cameras (L39 lenses) have the same thread as the Z39 lenses, but a rather shorter lens-flange to film-plane distance, so a Z39 lens could be used on an L39 camera, with an appropriate length extension-tube, with no r/f coupling, but not vice versa, it'll never focus.

     

    By the same token, an M42 SLR lens can be used on an L39 r/f camera with an appropriate length extension tube type adaptor, having an M42 female thread for the lens and a 39mm male thread for the camera. Provision has to be made within the adaptor tube to operate the aperture stop-down pin, if required, and there will be no r/f coupling.

     

    Again, I've got the M42 lenses, I've got the Zorkis and I've got the adaptor, and it all does work, but it's an awfully bulky solution ... "proper" r/f lenses are almost invariably much smaller than their slr counterparts, due to not having to account for the mirror. My Fed 28mm is less than 1cm proud of the camera body, looks just like a collapsed Industar 22, but doesn't extend ... makes for a very compact (albeit still fairly heavy) camera :-)

    A Question for overseas Shoppers

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Well, I live in Jersey, and I can assure you all that we have a customs service as "dedicated" as any anywhere. Packages regularly get opened/checked, and if there's no properly completed customs sticker on the exterior of a package, it stands a very good chance of getting returned, assuming the other requirement of a return address has been complied with. With the "current international climate" security restrictions have been tightened up considerably. Exports to the Channel Islands may be VAT-free, as we're not in the EU, but exports from the Channel Islands are subject to whatever import restrictions/duty applicable in the destination country.

    Zorki vs. FED

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Zorki 4k - no strap lugs, wide range of speeds, lever wind, easy to load.

     

    Zorki 6 - strap lugs, no slow speeds, lever wind, not quite so easy to load (take-up spool design inferior).

     

    I've got both, mostly 'cos I prefer a lever wind. My camera of choice to use is the 6 ... it "feels right" in my hands, I don't need to keep it in it's case to hang it around my neck, and I think it looks nicer (as if that makes a difference ;-)

     

    Of the two cameras I have, the 4k has the smoother shutter release, but the 6 is quite OK with a soft-release fitted.

    Curious about the *ist

    in Pentax

    Posted

    The viewfinder on mine says so ... but talking about viewfinders and manual focus, the viewfinder on my *ist sucks, compared to my old Fujicas, for critical manual focus work. As this is a criteria for you, definitely try before you buy !
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