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jon_porter

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Posts posted by jon_porter

  1. <p>I'm sure they would be optically fine on the Nikon, but you'd lose metering and the auto diaphragm with the Bronica lens, making it rather inconvenient to use. I considered getting a 120 lens adapter for my Nikon but, since all my 120 lenses overlap what I already have for the Nikon, decided it wasn't worth pursuing. </p>
  2. <p>You can pick up a Nikon SB-15 on eBay for $30 or so (just be sure to get the wide-angle diffuser with it). It's compact but powerful for its size, uses AA batteries, has a four-way swivel head, and can be used in manual or automatic on a D200. I used mine for nearly 30 years before switching to the even smaller SB-30.</p>
  3. <p><strong>MOTOR DRIVES/WINDERS: </strong>(Motor Drive E, introduced October '76, 1 frame per second continuous or single frame operation, using 8 AA batteries, remote activation and power capable, leather handstrap.</p>

    <p>Motor Winder E, introduced October '88, 1 frame every 8/10th second, uses 6 AA batteries, no remote activation, power, or handstrap available. Much easier to sequence to body.</p>

    <p>Ei-II introduced 1998 uses 1 2CR5, external DC power imput, significant down-sizing and lightweight hot-shoe and cable release connector. Hand strap supplied.</p>

  4. <p>In the two years I owned a 645N I never saw any variety of split-image or microprism focusing screen on eBay/KEH. They were made but I suspect they sold in very small quantities since the camera was an autofocus, so most owners just kept the standard matte screen.</p>

    <p>I have the 55mm f/4, 105mm f/2.4 and 165mm f/2.8 6x7 lenses and have used them on the 645N. The 165mm makes the 645 a monster camera and was too long for anything I used the camera for. The 105mm, however, was worth the cost of the Pentax 67>645 adapter. On the 645, the 105mm is a screaming fast long-standard/portrait lens, equal to a 60mm lens on 35mm. Very easy to focus, very sharp, and an auto diaphragm. It was much heavier on the camera than my 645 75mm and 150mm lenses, but I found the 105mm a more useful lens. </p>

  5. I had failures (and success) with both distilled and tap water and

    with all three dilutions. Going on the hypothesis that I wasn't

    adequately mixing part A, since I mixed it in 68 to 70 degree water,

    I'll try mixing it much more rigorously at 85 degrees with the next

    pack of Xtol.

  6. The darkroom salesman at my local camera store suspected that

    incomplete mixing of part A was causing the sporatic failure in the

    develper. He called Kodak to find out how hot the water could be in

    mixing the developer and was told there was no restriction on the

    upward temperature. So if I decide to give Xtol another chance I'll

    mix it at the highest temp I can get from my tap water, letting part

    A sit for a few minutes after thoroughly mixing it. On the other

    hand, the results I'm getting from DD-X look just like those I got

    with Xtol (when it worked), plus it comes as a liquid and has been

    100% reliable.

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