j._salty
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Posts posted by j._salty
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Me, being eccentric, I have a quite a lot of bulk loaders with different types of films. I roll off what I need, then store each loader in a marked black plastic bag, then in a Ziploc freezer bag and in the deep freeze. I just finally finished off a bulk roll of FP4+ dated 7/01.
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About a month ago a seller on ebay had bulk rolls of Tech Pan in single auctions. The final price averaged about 4x the regular selling price of B&H and Adorama. I suspect that Tech Pan will still periodically show up on the auction site.
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Another option would be to post your geographic location to see if a LF shooter could meet you and show you some LF equipment. Of course if the LF shooter uses 8x10, has a nice sharp lens and a killer contact print, you'll be hooked like most of us. Good luck in whatever you decide.
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Hi, have you thought about the option of maybe renting a LF camera to see if it's really something you might enjoy. The least expensive used camera appears to be the older Calumet, the CC-400?
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Hi, the Cambo lens board is approximately 6 3/8 x 6 3/8 and the Sinar board is approx 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 and the sealing groove on the back of each lens board are also different sizes, so it won't go.
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On J and C's website under "Developing Information" at the bottom of the page is stated "Orwopan 125 Film is identical to Ilford FP4+. Use Ilford developing information for this film."
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For outdoor shooting, look up the "Sunny 16 rule" for general exposure rules and for indoor, the flash you use either has a "Guide Number" or a small scale on it to estimate correct indoor exposure.
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I noticed that Mpex carries Elinchrom products and Jim Andracki is a great person to deal with. He's saved me a lot of money over the years on new and used items.
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I've gotten my lens caps from B&H, looking under Lens Caps (generic). They've cost me from $6- $10 depending on the size. They also carry Schneider plastic caps.
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Hi, whether you use the strobes or choose a smaller flash/bracket setup for your camera, you're either going to have to have a flash meter or know the "Guide no." to the flash setup and do a little calculation and experimentation to get the exposure correct.
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Freestyle in Los Angeles also sells C41 kits. Freestyle's shipping charges are based on the dollar amount of sales so it's normally much cheaper than paying shipping by product weight.
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I agree with the practicing loading some dummy film before your actual good film and the second comment is to be sure that you're using enough developer to cover the 120 reel, especially since you've been used to doing 35mm rolls.
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I like the shot, I've never thought about that angle. I was just looking at a hyperfocal chart for 90mm lens and at f22 this chart has the near focus at about 5.5' and the hyperfocal distance at 11.4.'
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Super Speed Graphics have the revolving back also.
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Both the Fuji 250SF and 180SF have the 2 discs (red and yellow dot). I've owned and used both and you can adjust the amount of softness by disc and aperature. I believe Mpex has a used Fuji 180SF for around $399 last time I checked.
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There's always Perfection XR-1, a developer no longer being manufactured but the formula is out there.
Kodak Tri-X, 2400, 1+1, 92deg, 10min, 2 inv / 15 sec, ---
Kodak Tri-X. 3200, 1+1, 92deg, 12min, 2 inv / 15 sec, ---
Kodak Tri-X, 6400, stock, 98deg, 8min, 2 inv / 15 sec.
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It's been a while since I loaded bulk HP5+, but I think it comes with a core/spool on the film. The only films that I've run across that don't have spools are the generic bulk brands.
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The plastic cassettes were hanging up with my power rewinder, so I went to the metal cassettes with the snap caps and have never had a problem.
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Years ago I was taking my negatives to a custom lab for 16x20 prints. They had fairly good prices but it took 7-10 working days to get the prints back. I finally decided to buy a book on darkroom work then bought the enlarger, lens and accessories to do it myself. My only regret is that I waited so long to do it myself. These days darkroom equipment, chemicals, and toners are relatively inexpensive. Of course silver gelatin prints are a different story.
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try www.ultrafineonline.com Although I've never used the 120 film, I believe it's made by Foma.
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I had my L-358 for a few years until I picked up the spot meter attachment from Badger's used department. I would have never paid the full price for a new one but this was less than half that price. It works well and the readings match the ones from my Minolta F spot meter. The spot meter attachment just takes a few seconds to pop off or on and mine came in a small black leather case, the same type as the Sekonic L-358 came in.
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FP4+/Pyrocat
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Hi, I was looking through some charts and the Bergger 200 in PMK should be exposed at 100 and developed in PMK for 11 minutes @ 70 degrees. When I factor in the difference in temperature and allow for rotary processing, I get 7.5 minutes @ 75 degrees for rotary processing.
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The Massive Development Chart lists 12.5 minutes for Xtol 1+2 for the old version of TMX, so I would have started there.
how much should i pay?
in Large Format
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