gogu

<p>Sure thing, just I haven't my camera right now so I am going to use a scanner, sorry for the poor quality...<br>

I know that in the US you can find these batteries cheaper but as I said in my posting in the older thread, here in Europe (and in Canada as I hear) they cost around 67 euros no shipping included, which is about US$100.00!<br>

The links to two honest Hong Kong based sellers who sell genuine batteries:<br>

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330344342745">http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330344342745</a><br>

<br>

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130317889302">http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130317889302</a><br>

<br>

Hope you all enjoy pleasant experiences and hassle free purchases from these eBay sellers.<br>

<br>

rgrds</p>

<p>I am returning to this subject just to add my personal experience which shows that not all products coming from the Far East are fakes…<br>

After we’ve discussed in two threads in large the problem of the genuine and generic/fake batteries bought on eBay from Far East dealers, I decided to buy a battery from such a dealer and see if it will be a genuine one or not. I e-mailed him and asked if his batteries are genuine or generic and he answered that they are all genuine, he also provided me with pictures of the “real thing”. Although the pictures on eBay were of the “white” box and those he sent me of the brown box, I decided to go on and ordered one.<br>

It arrived in just 5 days (!) and it is indeed a genuine EN EL3e battery! "Nikon Corporation" is there (as opposed to "Nikon Corp."), also the golden hologram with the four cuts is present (both on battery and the box!). The battery is the one with the “Sony” inscription on it but as we’ve already established such batteries are considered genuine.<br>

True, the price was US$47.00 (S&H included) instead of US$19.00 to US$25.00 of the generic/fake ones but you really can’t find such a low price here in Europe (and as I could read in previous posting either in Canada).<br>

So bottom line:</p>

<p >1) there are, too, honest dealers in Hong Kong:-)</p>

<p >2) for the European and Canadian members of this forum there is a cheap alternative to the exorbitant prices in their countries.</p>

<p ><br>

I don’t know if it’s OK to post the IDs of these two -honest- eBay sellers here, as soon as the moderator of this group gives me the green light I will post them.</p>

<p>rgrds</p>

<p>Try this older model if you can still find it around: Canon A590.<br>

Reasonable resolution (8 MP), many options, takes cheap SDHC memory cards and most important, it’s dirty cheap for what it offers! I bought mine a year or so ago for about 100 euros, that's about US$140.00. Fast enough (except flash recharge time), reliable, good IQ, vibrant colours and if you lose it hey, that's only 140 bucks;-)<br>

What else one could ask from a P&S camera?!<br>

Enjoy your trip and come back with many pictures:-)</p>

<p>I own this lens (16-85) for about a month and a half and I say it's a brilliant lens.<br>

Sharp for its range, distortion easily fixed with PS or any other program, sits perfect on my D90.<br>

As for VR I say it's worth the extra money.<br>

Even when you shoot at 16mm or there about in a night club and without a flash, then you'll say thanks for having it:-)</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Stephen wrote:<br>

Thats why we all adhere to agreed standards for "International Warranties". If a US camera dealer tries to avoid assisting a warranty claim on a genuine Nikon product, just email Japan or corporate in the US. Its illegal NOT to honour international warranties.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Hi Stephen!<br>

I bought my D90 plus 16-85 lens from Adorama Greece (a subsidiary of the American Adorama) which is not the official importer here but what people would call a "gray market" importer. Of course camera and lens came with all International Warranty papers etc from Japan, I also have the receipt from Adorama.<br>

Now you mean that if my camera or lens is broken witheen the warranty period, the official Nikon importer in Greece <strong><em>*must*</em></strong> repair my camera for free even if it's not imported by him and if he refuses to do so he is commitig an illegality?</p>

<p>Thank you.</p>

<p>Download it to your PC using Nikon Transfer and then try opening it with Capture NX or ViewNX. Once opened save it as JPG (or whatever you want) with another name and then try to open the new file with PSΕ 6. Hope it works.<br>

<br />PS<br />To prevent such errors try and format your card every time you are downloading your pictures to your PC. If you have not performed a format for a long time, some files can be corrupted.</p>

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3918763">Shuo Zhao</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" /></a>, Jun 25, 2009; 05:18 p.m.<br>

Gogu, the 16-85 f/3.5-5.6 VR is not exactly ideal for weddings. (except outdoor weddings in day light) It's a slow variable aperture zoom lens with slow AF speed.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Shuo, I know it's not what a pro would ever use (I'm well aware the "industry" standard is the 17-55) but I've used the 16-85 to shoot a wedding and with the help of an SB-900 strobe all the shots came out perfect!<br>

I was just trying to propose a cheap alternative;-)</p>

<p>Hi Kim!<br />I also bought my first DSLR a few weeks ago, it was also a D90:-)<br />I preffered to go for the 16-85 for its wider end and after comparing it with the 18-105 of a friend of mine I can now say it was a wise decision! (I also have the 70-300 ED from the film days so for the moment I am covered).<br />As for the viewfinder being not so sharp check the little wheel in the right of the eyepiece, it's a diopter adjustment control.</p>

<p>rgrds</p>

<p>Have a look at the Nikon 16-85/3,5-5,6.<br>

Quite wide (24mm on DX) for group shots, enough tele (127mm) for portraits.<br>

The only drawback (but not a real problem as you are certainly going to use a flash) is its 3,5-5,6 max diaphragm.</p>

<p>Sven,<br>

I think this is the site you are referring to:<br>

<p><a href="http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8119">http://support.nikontech.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/8119</a></p>

</p>

<p>Thank you all for your help!<br>

It seems I'll go for the genuine ones as I found a good deal on e bay, a UK based seller has them for 32.00 pounds (that's around 37.00 euros)!</p>

<p>Dave,<br>

in this case the difference between genuine and generic is about $160.00 ($200.00 vs $40.00) as I said elsewhere, that's about 10-12% of my camera/lens combo and if for you this is not a big deal, for some people it is.<br>

Yep, to paraphrase someone "I find it fascinating people talking without reading all postings before answering" ;-)...</p>

<p>Joseph,<br>

it may be "$38.00" for you in the US but here in Europe it's "69 euros or about $100.00" each at my local Adorama store (<a href="http://www.adorama.gr/e-shop/Products.php?CatID=16&SubCatID=255">http://www.adorama.gr/e-shop/Products.php?CatID=16&SubCatID=255</a>)! Two of them...US$200.00.<br>

You still find it's ... "not a high priced item"?!</p>

<p>You are right Jay but I want a set of 2 to use with the grip and keep my original battery just for in-camera use.<br />As for your concerns about 3rd party batteries, yes, I've also heard about some problems with them and that's exactly why I’m asking for opinions:-) I wonder for instance, if I "trust" Zeikos and buy their grip, why should I distrust their batteries?...<br />Questions, questions...</p>

<p>------------- <br />Thanks William for sharing your experience! That’s the kind of problems I want to avoid!<br>

<br />PS<br /> I thought that the grip takes 6 AAs not 8! Am I wrong?</p>

<p>Hi all!</p>

<p >I bought my new D90 (my first DSLR!), I researched (and decided) what zoom lens should I buy (70-300 VR), what flash (SB-600) and started figuring how to save to buy all that stuff.</p>

<p >And then…then it came poster Pete Harlan and destroyed my plans by “forcing” me to include in my wish list that ^%&*$# Zeikos grip;-)</p>

<p >OK I said, that’s only a few more bucks, I’m gonna buy it. Then I realized I also have to buy 2 more En-El3e batteries in order to operate it. So while searching on e bay I saw that there are up for sale many third party, generic such batteries. Most of them 2000 mAh.</p>

<p >My two questions are: can these third party generic batteries be trusted?</p>

<p >Is there any (positive) difference between these 2000 mAh batteries and the 1500 mAh original ones?</p>

<p >Thank you all,</p>

<p > </p>

<p >gogu</p>

<p>Billy,<br />fist of all great holiday, enjoy it:-)<br />Second, regarding gear I'd suggest:<br />1) buy a second hand back up body (search e bay for a D80 for instance) because you never know what's going to happen in a safari.<br />2) go for the 70-300 VR. It has VR <strong><em>(*very*</em></strong> important while shooting in the jungle or from a moving vehicle) and on a DX camera like yours its long end is exactly what you are looking for: 450mm! A very good lens and cost efficient.<br />Enjoy your safari and come back with great photos;-)<br>

<br />gogu</p>

<p>You may want to consider the Nikkor 16-85 instead.<br>

It's an excellent lens which will give you much more freedom that you can imagine.<br>

I have it on my D90 and I am amazed by the results.</p>

<p>Wouter,<br>

a million <strong>*<em>THANKS*</em></strong> for the suggestion on SmartCurves software!<br>

Downloaded it and works fine with P.S.E 7.0!<br>

Exactly what I was missing from the CS4!</p>

<p ><a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=5091077">Ernest Garver</a> , wrote:<br>

"But doesnt that degrade the image compressing it into jpeg or am I not losing any quality when it converts it?"<br>

Not as much as they say, usually you'll not see any difference.<br>

But if you want a lossless format, why don't you convert them in TIFF and then work them on PS?!</p>

<p>Thanks Matt!<br>

I am learning how to use my first DSLR and I want to make maximum use of my older Nikon gear... So my old SB-28 flash is worthless in P and full auto flash mode on my new camera:-( Obviously I need to buy the SB-600 flash...</p>

<p>tnx</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2344388">Matt Laur</a> wrote:</p>

<p>"The SB-800 can be used as a simple optical slave in situations where you're using other types of strobes. The SB-600 can't do that".<br />I thought that the SB-600 <strong><em>*could*</em></strong> be used as a slave and be triggered remotely by the pop-up flash on the D90.<br />Am I wrong?</p>

<p>tnx</p>

<p>PS<br /> BTW, can the older SB-28 be triggered remotely by the pop-up flash on the D90?</p>

<p>tnx</p>

<p>Thanks again for your answers!<br>

I've decided to download the 60 days trial version and see how I feel with it...<br>

If I like it (and learn to work with it in those 60 days;-)) I'll go for it along the PSE 7.0 I already own.<br>

The only thing I miss with PSE 7.0 is what some of you have correctly pointed out: the lack of the curves tool...<br>

tnx</p>

<p>Thank you all for your answers.<br>

I was thinking of what poster <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1127224">Wayne Cornell</a> proposed: do the first corrections in NX2--->save as TIFF--->more work in PSE7.0 if needed.<br>

As for buing the software at Cameta Camera, no such luck: I live in Europe and Cameta is charging around $44.00 for shipping!</p>

<p>Thanks again everyone for your answers!</p>

<p>Hi all!<br>

I decided at last to upgrade and bought my first DSLR, a Nikon D90 wit a 16-85/4,5-5,6.<br>

I already have Photoshop Elements 7.0 and of course the included with the camera ViewNX.<br>

My question is if I should buy the Capture NX2 or can I do (almost) everything I want with P.E 7 and ViewNX?<br>

I don't want to spend hours to manipulate my photos, just the basic retouches.<br>

<br>

Thanks!</p>