Jump to content

gogu

Members
  • Posts

    101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by gogu

  1. <p>The lenses <strong><em>*are*</em></strong> interchangeable, they all have the same mount.<br>

    What is not the same is their intended use with the two formats: some are for use on cameras with DX sensors, others are for use on cameras with an FX sensor (these ones can be also used on DX bodies without problems). OTOH lenses intended for use on a DX body, on an FX body will give you a smaller and round image.<br>

    Every camera brand produces today two lines of lenses, for AP-C and full frame sensors so you'll have the same problem with any camera on market.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  2. <blockquote>

    <p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2273681">Theodore Papageorgiou</a> wrote:</p>

     

    <p> If you think it is steal,just buy it outside UK.<br />I do it,living in Greece,and buying from Germany,UK,or USA.</p>

     

     

    </blockquote>

    <p>Is that so?<br>

    Then what about the import tax, plus VAT, plus brokerage fees, plus...plus...plus I pay some times when I receive something from US?!<br>

    It's like roulette, sometimes you are caught, sometimes you are not.<br>

    But when you are buying expensive stuff from outside EU you have to seriously consider the high fees in case you are caught at the customs.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  3. <p>Wouter, it's as you said...a matter of opinions:-)<br />I just believe that an f/4 is of course bulkier than an f/2.8 but not that much, I'd say it's at the limit of the convenient weight/size. And a constant f/4 IMHO it's not that an "empty feature" at all, it's just one f-stop darker than an f/2.8 pro lens and I don't like to try and "guess" what my aperture is at a given focal length when working at A and shooting at low light. But as I said above, that's only my two euro-cents;-)</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  4. <p>Wouter, theoretically you are right but we both know that an f/4 constant aperture would be something <strong><em>*every*</em></strong> photographer would like to have on this specific lens. I fail to see what would be "worst" in such a lens comparing to the actual f/5.6 lens. Who wouldn't welcome a faster lens?!</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  5. <p>1) Yes, even if the lens ends at 0.9 cents they have to sell it. But bear in mind that some unscrupulous sellers use this trick to attract you but they have friends who are bidding on the item in order to bring the price where they want (shill bidders).<br />2) I know of no such chart but look at my answer above. The G letter means that the lens has no aperture ring but it will work fine on your D80. Actually all modern AF-S lenses are G lenses.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  6. <p>Any AF, AF-D or AF-S Nikon lens is fully compatible with your D80 DSLR camera.<br />Older lenses are partially compatible but fully usable except for non-AI lenses which are incompatible and will damage your camera.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  7. <p>It means the seller has not established a "reserve" price.<br>

    Many sellers on eBay want to be on the safe side when they sell something valuable so they set a price under which by eBay rules they are not obliged to sell. If the auction ends below that price, they simply don't sell. If the auction ends above that price, then they are obliged to sell.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  8. <blockquote>

    <p>Alex Iwonttell wrote:<br>

    Well they definitely could make at least a 16-85/4 VR. They just don't want to. Wish for a good zoom? Buy a lot of expensive 2.8 ones...</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Well, you definitely have a point here Alex...</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  9. <blockquote>

    <p><a rel="nofollow" href="../photodb/user?user_id=5189561">Wouter Willemse</a> wrote:<br />Gogu, whether a 16-85 f/4 would be a big step up would still be an open question, wouldn't it? The existing 16-85 is a pretty proven solution. Yes it is f/5.6 at the long end. We know that when/if we buy it. Most of us also know it's a very nice lens for a bit too much money.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>First of all, I just stated <strong><em>*my*</em></strong> opinion and yes, I believe that a <strong><em>*constant*</em></strong> f4.0 max aperture would be a great improvement for this lens, after all it would be only one f-stop "darker" than the holly Graal of the pro zoom lenses, that’s an f2.8 max aperture!<br />That said, I own this lens and I believe it's a terrific lens in both focal range and IQ.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  10. <p>It greatly depends on what you shoot, your shooting style, etc.<br>

    Generally speaking a 17-55 or 16-85 plus a 70-300 or 70-200 would be a nice working combination. I have opted for the 16-85mm and 70-300mm combination and I am happy with it but you could choose differently, it's all matter of personal choice/taste/shooting style as I said.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  11. <p>Of course it is!<br>

    AF-D lenses are not considered that "old", they are fully compatible with every Nikon digital camera (of course they will not AF on cameras like D40, D60, D3000, D5000, etc which don't have an incorporated motor in their bodies). Bear in mind that your lens (originally an "FX" lens) will give you an angle of view equivalent to that of a 36-180mm on the D90.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

  12. <blockquote>

    <p>Salutari :) from Romania :)<br />But what I see in thpse samples seems uinacceptable to me... I did bought a top of the line DX SLR camera not a compact.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Salutari din Constanta;-)<br>

    Well, in that case you should know the "limitations" of the format you are buying!<br>

    My D90 produces <strong><em>*a little*</em></strong> better grain in the shadows but that's all; I'm also almost sure that all DX format Canons will show the same or similar grain! If you want less pronounced grain then FX format is the way to go.</p>

    <p>rgrds</p>

    <p>PS<br>

    I let the Noise Reduction always OFF (not even at Low); try this and shoot some test shots again.</p>

  13. <blockquote>

    <p>i wanted sharper images..(more megapixils)</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>More megapixels is not = to sharper images, you can take the same sharp images from a quality 5 MP camera! In this case MP stands for bigger printing dimensions at a given dpi number but this is another discussion.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>a 10.2 megapixil camera should let me see the hairs on my models arm or atleast a sharp and crisp eye...</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>A good 5 MP would give you the exact same results!</p>

    <p>As for your sharpness problems, they are usually user caused and as others have already pointed, your ISO settings is most probably the culprit;-)</p>

    <p>rgrds </p>

  14. <blockquote>

    <p>I do a decent amount of iso 400+ indoor shooting and long telephoto shots so the noise from 4/3s is a bit concerning</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>4/3 format simply can't compete with APC format in matters of noise, period!<br>

    If you want to switch to Nikon though, I'd suggest going with a body that works (in what regards AF) also with D lenses (D50, D70s, D90, etc).</p>

    <p>rgrds </p>

×
×
  • Create New...