alfred_alfred

I got the Nikkor 105/2.5 PC LTM for Leica and the 90/2.8 M-Elmarit.

both are excellent. But the leica bodies only has the viewfinder frame for 90mm. For 105 you got to estimate. Both lenses are good and well solid build.

The fast 105/2.5 PC nikkor includes a tripod mount socket on the lens itself. But requires a bayonet adaptor if using on a M-body.

I had a CLE. great 28mm frameline. compact and AE cabilities.

The rokkor lenses are excellent. Razor sharp. But the circuit board is giving me problems. sometimes it shutter release at 2 stops under from what the metering reads. I am now using it to meter first and switch to manual to set the metering manually before shoot the pictures.

I am eyeing for the new Bessa R2A/R3. Should be similar to CLE except missing the 28mm frameline. But then i can get a external viewfinder to sort it out. Well done Cosina.

Why they miss out the 28mm? Will the 0.7 viewfinder full frame to the edge covers a 28mm?

Is there a user reviews of the BESSA R3/2A ??

The viewfinder of the CLE is bright and clear. Very comfortable with the 28mm frameline. Dislike is it requires batteries to operate.

The rokkor lense are excellent. I find it better than the summicron build for the Leica CL. Furthermore the rokkor 28mm/2.8 is extremely compact and small. Hope this helps.

When i do macro with my AF105/2.8 i focus manually. Using a split screen helps. For focusing rail it depends on how close your magnifications are. The closer you get the harder it is to focus. That where you focusing rail comes in for very fine adjustments. The focusing rail recommended would be the Velbon with X and Y axis adjustments. Furthermore a good tripod, mirror lockup and cable release helps to reduce vibrations.

The AF105/2.8 lens will reach 1:1. I normally go beyond by adding extensions rings + TC14. And i'm used to focus manually without the focusing rail. Mind you the rail is quite heavy.

I notice that everytime i load a fresh film into the F3 with MD4, the

motordrive needs to transport the film until the film counter reaches

2 then the metering is engaged. It happens for both A and manual

mode. Meaning, one or two film exposure is wasted. Does it happens to

all? It's no big deal to me but i just want a confirmation.

Macro ain't suitable for the Rangerfinders. Used a SLR with a macro lens to get 1:1 results. Eg Nikon AF105/2.8 micro len. Or include a extension ring PN-11 for 1.5:1 .

Would you consider the alternative Tokina 28-70/2.8 . I'm currently having the AF35-70/2.8, no regrets.

about the 1:3. Had used the combo to shoot a Snake up on the trees.

http://www.ebay.com.sg/viItem?ItemId=3813694038

 

Item list here, is it worth the price? Anything so special and rare

that i missing out? To me it's just another English leica copy REID.

I'm only aware that the Chinese Leica Copy " RED FLAG " copy during

the China communist period is rare and highly collectible.

35-105 is equally good.

use a TC14A and PN-11. will let you get closer but not 1:1 like the macro lenses.

Meopta Manifax 4a. Prints up to 6X9 prints. Strong centre column and strong negative carrier. Low voltage bulb 85W which conserves electricity. Pricing is also lot cheap than Durst or Leica. With many supporting accessories like Easer, tray, timer, lens etc etc. recommended for amateurs and professional usage.

Which is a better buy?? Any differences? Is the latest Colorplan lens

made of plastic? Whereas the Hektor is glass and better?

Ever seen a SM rear black lens cap with a see thru lens? It converts

the SM lens into a viewing tele-lens. What's the code for this item?

Is it rare?

I'm a macro regular using the N8008s _ AF105/2.8 + PN-11 or TC1.4A. My slides are sharp. Use a solid tripod + cable release or self timer to trigger. Imagine i'm using Velvia asa50. The results are good.

Try Delta films with Perceptol. Both are Ilford products. Perceptol is reputated as a very fine grain developer.

Many thanks for all your postings, especially to Joel Matherson for his remarkable contribution. Infact i have the full M.CLE collection. The flash, 3 lenses + rubber hoods. The 28mm is cover with spots which is a know problem. Both CLE's are minty and i stay in a very humid country ,SINGAPORE. Both cameras operated fine in manual mode. Shutter speeds are accurate. Both experience meter hunting problem occassionally. Giving 1/1000th reading in very dim areas. And later jumping back to the correct reading sometimes. While sometimes it does not. While shooting at 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and 1 sec it releases the shutter all 1 sec speed. While the rest firing at 1/30 to 1/1000 i presume it's a ok. Not sure if these errors are caused by the trigger dials which needs cleaning or circuit chip faulty.

But they are excellent cameras. Very bright viewfinders even for 28mm framelines. compact and light. And the Auto Exposure metering enables me to concentrate on framing the subject and releasing the shutter quickly. So i decided to sent for repairs. Let's hope it's only cleaning and not changing of circuits or component chips.

 

Thanks.

I have 2 Minolta CLEs. Both in mint conditions. But due to it's

ageing effects, both are have some problems on the

1) metering hunting. sometimes it gives a wrong metering.

2) the Auto-shutter exposure below 1/8 sec is out. all releasing at 1

sec speed. while the rest above 1/8 sec are ok.

So is it worth to repair them and keep for own use. or sell them to

buy a new M6 or M7 after repairs. I really love the AE features.

Please advice. thanks.

get both John's books. No worries and no regrets

Has anyone tried the Voigtlander lense? pls advice.

thinking of using the Nikkor 50/1.4 screw mount and Elmar 50, Sumaron

35. Can it be done?

People tell me cotton, cloth, paper etc. please enlighten me.

the metering gives me problems. the LEDs lights running wild. up and down.

I also looking into that combo. But i can't locate a 52mm male to male adaptor. Is the Vignetting serious??