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jason_b.

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Posts posted by jason_b.

  1. <p>I used to be a very active member on this board, but I've been gone a while. I have a few pieces of gear left that I would like to sell in order to get into an M9 and start shooting with Leicas again.<br>

    Where is the best place to sell an MP a la carte these days? I used to sell 90% of my stuff through this forum, but I see they've changed things a bit. Are there other forums that are good? Is ebay even worth bothering with for something special like this?<br>

    Thanks, and it's good to be back.<br>

    J-</p>

  2. I've has both lenses and got to know the previous one quite well. I'm still getting used to the

    ASPH. Overall, the old lens was a little muddy wide open and close up. And had less contrast

    at all times than the new one. The ASPH though isn't TOO contasty or anything like that, it

    just has a better feeling of "clarity" or whatever that means. Up close it is great - my portraits

    with it are so much better than with the old ones. It also seems totally flare resistant. The old

    one was great in this regard, but the ASPH is just rediculously good. Ergonomically they were

    both nice - I like the E43 old one more than the E46 because of the detachable hood. There

    were some problems with early ASPH lenses being a bit stiff in the focusing ring, but that

    sould be mostly ironed out and the new one I've got is great.

  3. The same EXACT thing happened to me. Everyone made fun of me for putting it in fixer first

    - but I didn't do that. What I did do was use a bottle of rodinal that had been sitting half

    empty for a year. No developer no pictures and no edge print (which by the way eliminates a

    loading error - you would still have edge print). It is probably your diafine, or maybe you

    missed a bath in the dark. Don't feel too bad.

  4. I was suprised how mich I noticed the difference between the leica 28/2 and the VC 28/1.9. It

    comes down to clarity and contrast - which I tend to notice more than sharpness. The leica

    lens just has this quality of "clearness" - I feel like the prints just take me to what's in front of

    the camera. The VC was ok, even a little glowey which some of us like, but it felt a little

    muddy. That, and the focus stiffened up so I returned it, and being so pissed off at having to

    do that dropped 2K more on the Leica. I'm glad I did it though and would not switch back no

    matter what.

  5. Did the 24mm thing for a while. Lots of fun, but I was better off with the 28 in the end. I

    KNOW all wides distort, but as has been documented on nemeng.com etc. there is a

    difference between certain lenses (just try a nikon 21 vs a leica - the total coverage is the

    same, but everything is in a different place within the frame). From my recollection, the

    21/3.4 was more pleasing in the corners than the 21/2.8 pre asph. So, same focal length,

    different optical output. Once again, does anyone have experience with how the two existing

    zeiss lenses perform relative to the two Leica ones I just mentioned?

  6. So, it has been a while since I've posted. I have been trying to get the vibe of the 50/1.4 ASPH and my

    28'cron. Pretty amazing lenses.

     

    I've been wanting to try a 21mm again, but hate the stretched feling that some 21mm lenses give. I DON'T

    mean the geometric wide angle distortion by which lines converge etc, but rather the way an object seems

    to smear as it nears the corners.

     

    Supposedly the 21/3.4 is great at controlling this, and the subsequent Leica lenses haven't come as close.

    How does the ZM measure up in this regard, and for that matter the 21G?

     

    Aside from distortion, the only other quality I care about is resistance to flare. Sharpness and contrast are

    less important to me these days - I've already got lenses that do that!

  7. It doesn't really work with the 50 lines. I've used it and it was really hard to see where the

    edges of the picture were. That said, the focusing ability was unreal - I use it on my M3 when

    I shoot with my 28/2. It is doable with the 50 lines, just not my taste.

  8. I absolutely compared my MP a la cart with an M6 and my M4. The coverage was that of the

    M4. The framelines are a little different though. To allow for the meter diods to display, there

    is very little of the bottom framelines for 50 and 35mm. This doesn't really bother me - there

    is enough to judge where the edge of the picture is.

  9. When I shoot, I do things in a hurry, and don't want to have to be pulling things on and off

    my lenses. granted a IIIF isn't a speedy camera to use as it is, but I'd rather stick with

    somthing a little simpler. That said I know the 3.5s are great lenses, and I'd like to try one

    out someday, just not yet. Back to 50/2.5 vs 2.8 optics?

  10. I want to get a 50 for my IIIF and am unsure of what I'd like best. I like how small the 50/2.8 elmar is, but

    it's hard to find one without internal haze. Is the CV 50/2.5 as good as the old elmar? How to they both do

    against the light? I have a 50/2 nikkor which is a great lens, but its really big and really heavy. I will still

    use it, but would like something smaller and lighter.

  11. There are two separate factors involved. ONE: direct sun hitting your front element can cause

    light to bounce around within the lens itself between the elements. TWO: The sun, which is

    outside the "frame" of your composed photograph, is still well within the image circle

    projection of your lens, and is resolved with full detail and brightness inside your camera on

    your bellows, which is right next to your film and fogs or flares it - this is called BELLOWS

    FLARE. Bellows flare caused way more problems for me than lens flare ever did. Then I got a

    really good rectangular shade and that was that. No non-image forming light gets into the

    camera.

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