cblkdog

Good to see your Rollei, looks like a winner. I've had a Rollei T for around 40 years and other than a cla 25 years ago it still works like a charm.

This shot of Murph has lost a little in translation. Originally it was shot on Fuji 100asa E-6, pushed a stop then an interneg and finially a C print. Nothing like working in a color lab.<div></div>

I worked in photo labs for many years and

c41film can't be push or pulled like b+w

You can try but it's not designed for it. If

my memory is correct the development time

is 2.25mins or something like that, that

doesn't give you much leeway. Also c41 has

more latitude to be overexposed compared

to underexposed.

Can't believe it was the last.

<p>FWIW I found some brown glass pint and quart bottles on the 'bay a couple of years ago. I think it was somewhere in the darkroom section. Its good to hear some of you old timers still using HC100. I got my first bottle in '69.</p>

<p>Can you post the negs with the different notches? I remember learning the hard way about notches. I loaded a couple of Plus X sheets in the middle of 100 E-6.<br>

My boss was very happy about that mistake. BTW It a roller transport and all the film was shot as well as the chemistry.</p>

<p>Regardless of whatever developer, temp, dilution, etc. you try I'd do a clip test. There are so many variables that affect film that old, you need to test it and fine tune the development. Good luck.</p>

<p>If you are going thru the trouble of using Photoshop then go one step farther and print them yourself. You can get a little Epson for around $100, Good luck.</p>

<p>Since you say you love the 100mm f2.8, I'd stick with that. Only you know what you like to shoot best and therefore what the best lens is for it. For walking around I like a 50mm f 1.4 but thats what I've been using for the most part for 40 years.</p>

<p>Great stuff. I used to love printing work like that when I worked as a printer.</p>

<p>Nice work, I've always been a Tri-X shooter but seeing the Panatomic X makes me wish I had shot more of it.</p>

<p>Great answer JDM.</p>

<p>Great cameras. My first REAL camera was a HiMatic 7s which I sold to get a Nikon F. Years later the first thing I bought on the bay was another 7s. I also bought a HiMatic FP for my mother which eventually became mine and I can't make up my mind between that and the 7s. Both a great for low light and I've gotten some good shots with the FP on the New York subway. They don't make 'em like that anymore. BTW the FP is a F but with a black body.</p>

<p>Maybe its because they are Photographers.</p>

<p>While they aren't rangefinders, Rollieflexes have leaf shutters and are very quiet. Nice big, sharp negs also.</p>

This isn't too sharp, its an old scan of a print. lllF 5cm Summicron<div></div>

<p>In the good old days you would make an interneg from your original 4x5, print onto Duratrans and process that in RA4, if my memory is right. Your way sounds correct also. I don't know if you can get Ilfochrome material that big, if you can it would be very expensive, besides finding a processor that could handle it. Not many people do them anymore. I'd like to your results, good luck.</p>

<p>Nice idea for a thread Josh, too bad there aren't any animal lovers out there. Good luck with the dog, I've been thru similiar straits. Here's one of one of my dogs trying to steal my prosthesis. I always having trouble uploading to this site, so bear with me.</p><div></div>

<p>John - for what its worth, I don't think refurbished Epsons come with a guarantee.</p>

<p> Adorama is the best place I know of in NYC to buy from. I worked a couple of blocks away and had my choice of B&H and Adorama and always came back to Adorama. They would take time to talk to you and I never had any problems from paper, film, chemistry to cameras. Thats why I still deal with them. As far as your camera goes, you get what you pay for. Thats on the low end but hopefully you won't have any problems. I wish I had gotten it, have fun.</p>

<p>BTW nice b/w shots Stuart. Its good to see someone who know the difference between straight D-76 and D-76 1-1.</p>

<p>My A-1 used to be my newest camera until I bought a T-90 last year, not a bad camera either. Now thanks to digital, I also picked up a F-1old with a 20mm SSC lens for $115. Now the A-1 is my second newest, oh I forgot the 2 K-100s. You have to love those digital fools, just kidding.</p>

<p>Thank you Lex, I'm honored. BTW I found an article about making adaptors for different mercury batteries. Its in PDF so if anyone wants a copy, email me. Good luck shooting Adam, next you'll have to start processing and printing your own.</p>

<p>I'm in N.J., an hour south of NYC. I have my own darkroom and many years of experience.</p>

<p>Something else you could try is an adaptor called the Tri-Dot made by Jon Goodman. It works as a shim for the #675 battery. I got it for my trusty ol Minolta Hi-Matic 7s, works like a charm. But if you're new, it sounds like you'll learn more using Fred Parkers guides. I still use the sunny 16 and compare it to my meter readings to see how good I am, haha.</p>

I know this is out of line but I just want to see the final print. Good luck Kitty.