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Posts posted by www.whitemountainphoto.com

    Can Neat Image be Applied to PART of an Image?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    Yes, I'm using the mask system, but the history brush would also work just fine. Since we're getting readers regarding NI, I hope you don't mind if I add on to your question. I've just got it and am trying to get used to using it. I thought that I would be able to use neat image to eliminate noise from some of my problematic scans, and then apply unsharp mask as a final step to sharpen the image overall. I'm finding that when I use the unsharp mask after NI, it seems to put almost all of the noise back in that I got NI to remove. In that case, I'v been forced to use masking to have it affect only the most problematic areas, and unsharp masking the rest. Am I missing something here? Also, I've had some decent success with the settings, but it takes an awful long time to apply on a 300MB image, so with an "average" (I know, hard to say what's average) amount of NI used, what settings are NI users starting with as a base-line to work from?

     

    Regards,

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    How to be "there"?

    in Nature

    Posted

    I tend to agree with Guy above. It's certainly a dissapointment getting up in the dark at 3:00am and lugging an extra 20 lbs of gear to a summit, only to have it be overcast, but then I had a great work out and feel great being on a beautiful summit, picture perfect or not. Then there are the numerous trips also in the dark, over three years, to drive an hour and have a minimal 5 mph wind prevent you from getting the shot, before finally coming up with this:<a href=http://www.whitemountainphoto.com/400jpg_pages/040601-08_lupines/040603_400_lupines_sun_.html>www.whitemountainphoto.com/400jpg_pages/040601-08_lupines/040603_400_lupines_sun_.html</a>

    One time when I made that drive and got zero, I got this winner on the way back unexpectedly:<a href=http://www.whitemountainphoto.com/400jpg_pages/fall.2004.400.pages/041035.albany.brook.400pg.html>http://www.whitemountainphoto.com/400jpg_pages/fall.2004.400.pages/041035.albany.brook.400pg.html</a>

    Dana

    How to Touch Up Dust Spots on Inkjet Prints?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    Aaah, if only life were so easy. All the vaccuming and cleaning in the world and I would be lucky to get one out of three perfectly clean 12"x31" prints using an Epson 2200 and Epsons lustre roll paper. 1/3 of the print has this huge blue continuos tone sky. For some reason, at some point in the 31" printing process, would get one tiny spec of dust the size of a pencil tip on the paper, the printer would print ink over it, and then it would fall off leaving a tiny white, but very noticeable dot, enough to drive you absolutely nuts. After much searching, I finally found a fine tip permanent felt marker that matched the sky (and most any other sky) and if touched properly eliminates the spot without detection. I'm writing to thank Joseph, because I had tried the ink fix out of the cart idea, but had problems with it being too dark. I'll be ordering some of the MIS stuff this week for any further fix problems. Thanks,

    Best way to mount inkjet prints?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    David brings up a good point. Let the print dry AT LEAST a day first. It's less prone to scratching or marring when you're trying to get that small bit of dust off it before framing it. Also even more important is the out-gassing that still occurs. In humid conditions, I've had prints that I've drymounted and framed after drying for a day, and later the inside of the glass became fogged from the continuos out-gassing. I now wait a minimum of three days, with paper on top of the print to help speed the process, before drymounting and framing, and preferably a week if I can.

    Do Coolscan 9000 glass holders truly produce superior results?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    Nathan, scanning some today with the 8000, using the same glass carrier. An absolute must if you ask me, especially with older warped film. As for newton rings, yea I ran into a couple today, but was able to easily make them dissappear by switching the film oround to the opposite end, or in the worst case flipping it over. For me, they mostly show up when there's alot of solid color, blue skies in particular, but I've always been able to work around them.

     

    Dana

    Best way to mount inkjet prints?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    Jeff, another angle to consider. I first went the archival hinge mounting routine with a good amount of overmat, and while it was more archivally accepted, the client wants a great looking print today, as well as tommorow. It may be fine printing some 12x18's and hinge mounting them in Arizona, but here in humidity-laden New England, you'll definately notice some curling and buckling eventually. I've been doing the art show circuit for 5 years, and now own my own gallery, and after seeing customers (not photographers) reactions and comments, I'm firmly convinced of keeping that print perfectly flat. It just doesn't sell once it starts to wave. I've been printing and drymounting with my Epson2200 and now Epson 4000, and a Seal drymount press for three or four years now, and the prints look just as good as the new ones off the press today. I frame using all acid free materials and UV glass to help ensure longevity. Maybe they lose a tad (some debate) in longevity, but they'll look better throughout the owners lifetime. And heck, if they want to change the mat or frame, they still can, just not the acid free backing.

    Does anyone use a mountain bike to get to a location?

    in Nature

    Posted

    Jim, Thanks for the kind words. I can't imagine my weight is more than say 20 lbs. or so. The Nature Trekker (padded) easily holds my Mamiya 645 Pro Tl, a 45mm, 80mm, and 140?mm, with film, filters, flashlight, wool cap, energy bars, and any of the other odd do-dads I have along. Water Bottle on the bike holder. The backpack has a conevient pocket on the outside bottom that I can stuff my rather large Gitzo with Kirk Ball head(series 3400?=fairly large, not near it to look at the model #)legs into, then it has two straps that cinch it to the back of the pack, then some thin bungy straps that I wrap around the top of the head. It works rather well, and since the tripod rides dead center, I don't find listing much of an issue. When I do venture on the bike as I said, I tend to eaither travel not too far and/or not too technical for concerns about taking a spill with my gear. However If I fell, I'd probably find someway to sacrifice by body for my gear...not smart, but typical of my reflexive action. Recently, it took me mere minutes to ride my bike two miles each way on fairly flat terrain, when it would have taken me probably 90 minutes on foot.

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    Does anyone use a mountain bike to get to a location?

    in Nature

    Posted

    Jim, my Lowepro Nature Trekker works great with my full suspension mountain bike. I agree with much of the above though, and don't take it on rigorous treks where it's exceptionally bumpy for a long time or technical. It certainly allowed me to get to a nice sunrise at Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge (NH) easier and an extra 1/2-1 hour of sleep. Well worth it!

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    Cutting roll paper to use in smaller printers

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    I've attempted similar things to adapt a specific paper to my Epson 4000. Lot's of work, a big pain in the *ss, and you're bound to crimp or scratch it sometimes. After much frustration, I fortunately found a compatible paper in the size I needed made by another manufacturer with the same characteristics and ratings. A good place to start is asking the folks at inkjetart.com for a comparable paper in the size you need. They were very knowledgaeble and helpful and could have what you want or direct you where to get it.

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    Sales Outlets

    in Business of Photography

    Posted

    Rob, As mentioned, for the appropriate type of photography, I think art fairs (far better than "craft fairs") are a good way for a novice to expose his/her work, get direct feedback from a large group of potential "buyers", and determine if your work is marketable. Look locally in your reqion and contact local Chamber of Commerce offices (they often organize these things) to find when and where. The more affluent towns tend to haver higher sales, and you usually have to register fairly far in advance, many months for the better shows. After a full day of hundreds of people looking at and commenting verbally or non verbally on your work, and how much sales you make should give you a decent feel for the potential of your work.

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    To Limit, or Not To Limit

    in Business of Photography

    Posted

    No offense intended, but Bills' answer is exactly what bugs me about limiting print numbers. I've considered it myself and am not entirely opposed to it, but how limited is it really, and under what terms? I hope Bill makes it emphatically clear, that when someone buys what they think is one in 100, he can run another 5000 if he wants by just changing the picture size by an inch. According to some of the methods described here about escalating the price, I'd be pissed if the artist/photographer didn't tell me, and I paid a large sum of money for what I thought was one of the "last ones"of the series, only to find out there are thousands more , just an inch smaller, and now starting at a lesser price. That difference isn't unique enough for me to want to pay "limited print" money for. Now, in defense of this practice, would I be as upset if I bought a limited edition in an 8x12 size, and later found out there are hundreds in 16x20's with another edition of the same image. I still may not be thrilled with the idea, but the large variation in size seems to make it a bit easier to swallow, knowing the other buyers probably paid alot more due to the large size. This is the type of gray area that concerns me about limited edition numbering.

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    Backpacking and Photography

    in Nature

    Posted

    Nathaniel, 20-25 miles per day with a full pack for three weeks is a very ambitous goal. I'd have to agree with those who suggest paring down to the minimum, and still bring a small tripod. I've been hiking for about thirty years with and without full packs and camera gear. Have you actually hiked 20-25 miles in a day with comparable weight? If not, you might want to try it for a day or two first, and possibly adjust your agressive time-frame?

     

    Happy Hiking,

     

    Dana/<a href="http://www.whitemountainphoto.com">www.whitemountainphoto.com</a>

    New Nikon 9000- workflow tips?

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    David, after endless frustration of getting the film flat enough, I switched to the glass holder. Now I get sharp definition across the entire film plane, without struggling with the standard film holder, or picking multiple focus points. As for Newton's Rings, yes I see them occaisonally, but rarely. If I do, sometimes just flipping the slide over/around causes them to dissappear, or I use the thin rubber mask supllied with the holder. I find this easier than getting film flat, but to each their own. A slide with alot of dark areas requires the slower "super fine" scan to avoid banding, but I think I've heard they solved that on the 9000?

     

    Dana

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