robert_turner

<p>Why not try the search function? This question has only been asked a couple of hundred times since the 7d was introduced. ;-)</p>

<p>I think comparing the F5 film camera with a 5d is a false analogy. All top 35mm Canons and Nikons took huge resale hits with the emergence of equivalent quality digital bodies. The used market knocked 5d's down at least 30% when the mk2 came out. Given the scarcity of FF sensor cameras, my advice would be to chill, if your sole fear is another big depreciation hit, as the 5d already took its shot to the chin.</p>

<p>I used my 5d with my Zuiko 24/f2.8, 50/f1.4, 50Macro(with 3 OM rings)/f2.5, 100/f2.8(best lens per ounce on the planet, I think, tho the 24 is darn close) and 135/f3.5.<br>

I replaced the stock screen with one (Canon Ee-s I think) to assist MF with my Olys, and it made a marginal improvement.<br>

I can't even imagine using stop down MF lenses with a 1.6 crop camera that has a smaller VF than the 7d. Even with the 5d, it is NOTHING like focussing on an OM body (OM-1 in my experience). Not close.<br>

I've always loved the quality of the Zuiko glass, and the compactness of design, but the inconvenience when compared with EOS EF lenses is substantial, and the bank I was able to gain by selling the glass turned into a EF 50mm/f1.4 and a 28mm/f1.8. (The selling prices for nice OM glass on Ebay can be fantastic, especially if you properly stage some product shots.) Unlike the Zuikos, I reach for these lenses often. Another thing, it shouldn't take much effort to find a sweet 5d for not much more than $1,000. That's substantially less than a 7d by my calculations.<br>

Finally, if you chose to try the Oly glass with an EOS body, it's a good idea to avoid the OM/EOS converter with the "chip" that allows for "green dot" focus confirmation. More than one 5d has been fried by this adapter, for reasons unknown. These adapters are CNC'd by invisible Chinese companies who assume no responsibility and my advice is to get a "dumb" one. Don't risk a costly repair bill on a $30 adapter.<br>

Anyway, this is just MHO, your results may and probably will vary, good luck.</p>

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<p>No David, FAT32 is exactly what the Canon expects to see... Whatever is being changed, it isn't the format.<br>

What is the exact message the 7d gives you? When you reinsert in the CF reader, do you see the same files and folder as you did when you inserted it prior?</p>

 

<p>I'm a Mac user as well with a similar setup (Lexar FW400 reader, 7d). I've NEVER had that happen. Next time it does, prior to reformatting in your Canon body, re-insert in the CF reader, go to Finder, and select "Get info" for the CF card. See if for whatever reason Max OS reformatted after copying in its native OS (which is not FAT based and would not be recognized by your 7d). If that is the case, then figure out what piece of software thinks its a good idea to do this. I can't imagine it is the CF reader's fault, but it is weird, regardless...<br>

rt</p>

 

<p>Also, Jakob, when you did your manual -vs- AF test and AF "readjusted", I wonder if your vision plays a role in this? Do you wear corrective lenses? What is the diopter setting on the viewfinder? If you manually focus to "sharp", and your vision is off, then of course AF will return a different result.</p>

<p>Hey Puppy, if the 7's vf is tiny, what would you term a xxd's or a digital rebel's? ;-)<br>

I had my 5d for about a week after buying my 7d and compared the "apparent" size of the VF's in a very unscientific fashion. In any case, the 5d's certainly was bigger, but the difference was much more subtle than say, comparing a Xsi or 30d.<br>

I always notice the small vf when I pick up a Rebel or a 30d, but not so with the 7d.</p>

<p>Here are some tips you may find useful in between reading books or web tutorials-<br>

1- always shoot in manual mode. <br>

2- choose a realistic ISO<br>

3- KEEP SHUTTER SPEED AT 1/60th/sec (faster shutter speed contributes to very "jerky" and otherwise unsmooth video imho)<br>

4- set aperture according to desired DOF and scene brightness. Avoid changing this when shooting as not only will brightness obviously change, but you will also hear the "clicks" if you use the internal microphone<br>

5- whenever possible, use a tripod or other solid mount<br>

Have fun!<br>

Robert</p>

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<p>Canon, I am certainly ready for my 3D, which is, of course, the marriage of a 7D's form and function to a 5DII sensor.<br>

If you really want to rock my boat, feel free to REDUCE the # of megapixels by 20% or so.<br>

If you are determined to make me swoon, or perhaps faint, do all of this in a package retailing for <$2,100 (thanks Ken!)<br>

ps- please send me advance warning, Canon, so I can recoup top dollar for my 7D before the 3D comes out. I swear I won't tell...</p>

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<p>Funny... My browser shows Cameta's 7d price for a USA model to be $1,699.95 which they say reflects an instant savings of $100.<br>

There are no $1,500 7ds at Cameta.</p>

 

<p>Paul- I think you'll find a great crew of folks in here who will be glad to help with photographic questions and speak from real world experience rather than anecdote.<br>

Anyway, I presume you haven't spent much time reading the manual (at least where the various focusing options are described). It sounds to me like you're using the automatic 19pt AF selection mode which, by default, tries to focus on the closest object. You should learn more about AF point expansion and AF zones, as either of these approaches are better suited for what you're trying to do. You will have to enable some focusing options by CF, at least until you learn what you like. These tutorials should help:<br>

http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&articleID=3167<br>

Once you understand the various focusing modes the 7d offers, you can choose one for your specific needs. And this can be done without taking one's eye from the viewfinder, which is a huge plus.<br>

Cheers,<br>

Robert</p>

 

<p>Like another poster I went the Tamron 17-50 non IS route. I recently sold my 5d for a 7d and borrowed a friends 17-55 f2.8 Efs/lS lens as I presumed that would be the lens that "replaced" my trust 24-105 f4L. I thought image quality, color and contrast were excellent throughout the range, and can't imagine one being disappointed with the performance of the Canon, but I went the Tamron route for the following reasons- <br>

Price- got the non-IS version at less than half the cost of the Canon. I'd love to have IS, but really don't miss it at focal lengths less than 40mm or so.<br>

Build quality- the Canon shoots like a L lens, but it sure doesn't feel like one. While the lens seems physically huge given its focal range, I thought it felt "loose" and much more "plasticky" than other Canons I was used to. My friend bought the lens new and has used it for about 8 months, so that may account for some of it, but the difference in handling between that lens and my 24-105 was substantial. The Tamron feels much better, more solid, etc. There are reports of variation in quality with Tamron and other third party lenses, but mine is sharp across the range.<br>

Size- as noted, the Canon is huge, the Tamron, not so big. I didn't like the way the Canon's hood interfered with the on cam flash, but certainly other lenses do that as well.<br>

Erata- $1,000 and no hood? Boo Canon!<br>

Sorry to highjack this thread with an off-topic response.</p>

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<p>Backup?<br>

I'd advise against getting into a pro system whose batteries weight nearly as much as your 5d! <br>

Seriously, if a backup is really what you're after, why not find a mint 40D and a nice APS-C lens? Easily fits your budget and actually brings some versatility to the table. But really, a pro body as a backup? I just don't get it... Living with the two totally dissimilar menu systems/interfaces is more than enough to drive you crazy...</p>

 

<p>If I promise to pay you a fair commission, will you work as my equipment buyer in the future, Scott? ;-)<br>

OP obviously just wants to be "talked in" to buying a 1dmk2, by the way. I wonder if he's ever lifted a 1 series cam? I've bought two 1-series cameras used- a 1 (original film) and the orig. 1d. I got lucky in everything other than battery life, and agree a used 1 series camera can be a terrific deal, especially if it fill a need.<br>

I thought there was a glut of pristine 5d's out there from when the yuppies with upgrade fever heard about the mk2s. Used prices for 5ds went thru the floor overnight even though the camera didn't change... ;-)<br>

ps- beware the Chinese batteries. I think they use a different math system for assessing capacity. Not sure that is where I want to cut my corners, but each to their own...</p>

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<p>Scott- you must be a ebay wizard. I just searched Ebay's completed listings for 1ds'es and in the last 25 actual sales, only one was had as low as $800. Average price was just below $1,000. But like you said, it is "possible". Also, since this camera was introduced winter of 2002, it's not a stretch of imagination to presume the NP-E3 batteries are likely close to shot. OEM Canon replacements go for around $110, the more adventurous can risk it with a Chinese knock-off for around half of that. Not to venture too far off point, but I think the OP may be better served with used yet much fresher 5d.</p>

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<p>John IS right. You can get a 1ds for that price point. But the analogy between KEH bargain lenses and bargain cameras is a faulty one. Lenses, with modest care, will last generations. A computerized Canon DSLR used/abused by pros? Not so much... I guess the question, to paraphrase Clint, is "Do you feel lucky?"...</p>

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<p>Greg- Sorry, didn't mean to ruffle your feathers. I thought I was being gentle. Next time you'll get the lecture, you'll see the difference. ;-)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>No offense intended, but the 1ds (or any one 1d* model) has been designed to provide specific performance within a demanding usage environment. If you do not know exactly WHY you need a 1ds, then you don't. At this point in time your skills are far more determinant as to final product than the equipment.</p>

<p>I realize this is absolutely irrelevant, but I'll never forget my first experience involving APO at a Ritz Camera store in Naples, Fl. 10 years ago, more or less, I was looking at some Sigma zooms with this designation. I had no idea what APO meant so I asked one of the sale staff. He told me "this technology was used in the Apollo program". With a straight face. Needless to say, I didn't buy the Sigma, but I did walk out of the story still wondering what the heck APO was. Reading this thread brought all of this back for me...</p>

<p>Thinktank has incredibly cool, well-designed (and environmentally conscious) gear for virtually any application. Once you try their gear, you'll see. I'd take a look at their offerings and see what you think.</p>

 

<p>Don't buy it if you're using a full frame sensor camera.<br>

rt</p>

<p>If your 50 "tries to focus" with the AF switch off, it is either broken or possessed by demons.</p>

<p>Could you possibly be more vague about your intended use, requirements, goals? ;-)</p>

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<p>Hey Tommy-<br>

We have similar gear and cases- I have a 5d, 70-200 2.8, 50mm 1.8, 28mm 1.8 and love my Urban Disguise 35. BUT, for longer walks/hikes/etc., the shoulder strap gets old. While it is certainly a matter of personal preference, I've never liked carrying my gear in a backpack. Too darn hard to access gear, change lenses (without laying the bp down) etc. So my solution was to give ThinkTank even more of my money for a Speed Freak (fanny/belt type pack). Even tho they don't claim it in their advertisements, I can stuff the 70-200 with inverted hood, MOUNTED on my 5d, lens down, the 24-105 next to it, and the 1.4 extender (or the 50 1.8) on the other side. I can whip out the mounted big lens in seconds, change lenses quickly, and the pack is a pretty comfortable carry. The wide belt is great, and I sometimes use the shoulder strap simultaneously to "balance" the load. This setup would not work with a 1 series body, or with a battery grip equipped 5d, tho. <br>

Have a great trip- I'm Vulcan green with envy...<br>

Robert</p>

<p>I have several Zuikos I enjoy using with my 5d-<br>

24mm f2.8<br>

50mm f3.5 MACRO<br>

100mm f2.8<br>

I also have the 50mm f1.4. I pretty much never use it as I also have a EF 50mm 1.8 I which is so much more convenient and similar in weight. The OLY is faster, but having to deal with stop down metering and losing autofocus makes the tradeoff too high for my needs. And frankly, while a lot of the older OM glass is very nice, the 50/1.4 doesn't really excite me. Bokeh is no better than my EF 50 1.8, which is hardly a lens famous for buttery blur.<br>

Your results may vary, but I'd bet you'll rarely use the Zuiko 50 as long as you own a modern EF version.</p>

<p>rt</p>

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