daniel_unkefer

Michael,

 

Regarding your specific questions:

 

1) 70mm bulk film loaders are available. I bought one, and it was a waste of money. You can load the cartridges easily in the dark, you don't need a loader, IMHO. I've read some have stretched a string out to measure how long the load should be (15 feet for 70 exposures with the A70).

 

2) I bought on ebay a Kindermann 70mm plastic developing tank. This came with a Kindermann 70mm metal spiral reel, which will process up to 80 exposures using Hasselblad, in my experience. I also have a Kindermann 70mm loading stand, but I don't use that much, either.

 

3) You are likely to be using outdated film, but I have not found this to be a problem, and I'm being critical. I've bought some film that was junk (I use that for testing backs, etc). Most has been fine to use.

 

Go for it!

 

-Dan

I have a few 25 sheet boxes of the European-sized 6x9 100EI film from J&C. I load it into Plaubel Makina cut film holders, it fits perfectly:) I use these holders (have a bunch) for my two Plaubel Makiflex cameras. This works just great, really like this film.

I have five Hasselblad A70 backs, which are all presently loaded with various types of expired Kodak and Agfa Aerographic type 2 films. I have stocked up on Kodak Surveillance 400EI film, have about fifteen rolls of that. And I have a 500' roll of Plus-X Aerorecon film, as well. Hasselblad literature indicates that this thinner film base will load about 250 exposures into a Kodak 70mm cartridge and works fine in the A70:)

 

I have three "rubber wheels" which can be changed out in the A70, and allow me me run unperforated 70mm films through the backs. I have run several full dummy rolls through several backs, marking some ancient Portra color neg with a sanford sharpie. The rubber wheels pull the emulsion through the A70 just fine. That is good, since you can get fresh unperforated Efke100 from J&C, and Kodak Portra100 & 400, which I have in my deep freeze. You can also get fresh 70mm type 2 Infared MACO from J&C. Haven't tried any of that, yet.

 

Find some film and try it. I love 70mm!

I have purchased alot of Hasselblad equipment (there is alot around) from many different sources, and then had it serviced at Hasselblad USA. That has worked out very well for me, although it's been expensive.

 

In retrospect, I could have purchased some of it from David Odess, and I think in the long run I'd have spent a bit less. If piece of mind is important to you in regards to your equipment, of course, you -need- to have it professionally serviced.

 

I have heard a lot of good things about David, I've not had any experiences yet, but I am planning to send him some of my new acquisitions (120,150,250T* black lenses).

Not sure what your budget is, but Hasselblad used to make a ringflash back in the seventies. I bought one for $60 on ebay, and sent it to New York Flash Clinic. It ended up needing a new flashtube, they charged me $200 total. This included adapting the ringlight to fit my old Norman 200b power pack, for which I have multiple fresh batteries.

 

This is a fairly powerful flash at 200 watt/seconds, very quick recycle, and not really all that expensive, considering. Smaller than the Broncolor units, but puts out a beautiful light.

My first roll is back from the one-hour (Fuji Press 800 develop only) and WOOOW the "look" is there, very cool. The Bessa-R rangefinder is doing an adaquate job of focusing the 1.2. I'm considering getting a Bessa-T for more critical use (while Gandy still has them), how does the silver version hold up?

 

I'm shooting another roll today.

Hello David,

 

Sounds like you need a bit of practice, it -is- different. Fish one of those ruined rolls out of the trash (or sacrifice a fresh one), unroll the paper, and remove the film and tape. Roll the paper back tightly, and mark it DUMMY or whatever. Now you have a "practice" roll you can use over and over, until you are sure you have the hang of it.

 

-Dan, been there, done that. Just stick with it, you'll get it.

Hi All,

 

Have two Voigtlander Bessa R's, the Nokton 1.5, and most of the VC LTM lenses.

Recently I started looking into the old Canon f1.2 LTM lens, for really low

light work. I know the Canon is only sharp in the center wide-open, that is

acceptable for my uses. I imagine I will continue to use the Nokton for most

of my 50mm shooting, I'm looking for a different "signature", and something new

and fun to play with. The posted photos I've seen look quite interesting.

Anybody else out there currently using it on the Bessa R?

 

Anyway, bought a nice example with filter for $177. Now, I'm looking for a

lenshood. The 55mm f1.2 Olympus has been suggested to me, anybody know where I

can find one? (This is the 57mm clamp-on version). Any other suggestions for

shading this beast will be appreciated. I'm also interested to hear about other

recent 50mm 1.2 Canon experiences. I think having this is going to be a kick:)

 

Best Regards

 

Dan

I agree with everything I've read above. I'm often entranced by the GG screen. Great topic. When I was shooting a lot of LF landscapes, I would often "work" the site shooting many 4x5's in a day. It's great for trying something that your gut tugs at you, so you shoot it. Then I find I have found the right spot, everything about right, and confirmed it on film, I would revisit under the right conditions and bring out the 8x10. I have always found the 8x10 groundglass much easier to properly view, versus the the 4x5, and I feel my compositions are more powerful in this format. Or maybe it's the maximum GG view buzz.

Hi Evan,

If you like the look of the photos taken with Al's 15, you should try the Voigtlander 12mm! I have one, and it is -awesome-.

Dan

Well, Hello Evan.

That is a great classic lens, you will enjoy using it. I ended up with a 50mm f1.5 CV Nokton for my own low light shooting, I decided to get the whole CV lens set.

-Dan, talk to you on that other forum.

Hans,

I bought the adapter for unperforated 70mm film in 'blad back from a guy (DearAujuro) on ebay several years go. This looks to me like something he had mass-produced in a machine shop. It is manufactured of aluminum, threaded to fit the blad 70mm back. If you open your 'blad back, you can remove the film advance cog by turning the knurled knob to counter-clockwise with your thumb. There is a washer underneath, be -careful-. This guy had a aluminum disc machined to thread onto the blad hub, then put back on the knob. It's basically a disc of aluminum, the outside edge has been cut to hold a black neoprene "o-ring" which pulls the unperforated film through the back without a bit of problem.

So far, in type 2 perforated 70mm, my biggest score was from a military surplus guy, I bought fifteen reasonably fresh rolls of 150' Kodak Surveillance film, EI 400, like it alot for B&W, about like Tri-X. Also 150' of Infared 2424, dated 1999, gonna try it anyway. And 500' of Kodak Plus-x Aerecon II film 3404, a very thin based film. Recently I bought 100' for Agfa Aviphot EI400 color neg, supposed to be like regular 400EI color neg in terms of response.

 

In unperforated 70mm, I have fresh Kodak Portra 100 and 400, and Efke 100 from J&C photo, just introduced this year. I bought two of the 70mm blad adapters from a guy on ebay several years ago, they have worked well for me so far, no overlapping frames.

Hello All,

 

I had some pretty good luck acquiring some interesting, not badly

outdated 70mm films, as well as 70mm cartridges, Kindermann film tank

and loading rack, 70mm film pages, Hasselblad 70mm backs, even the

adapter for running unperforated 70mm film in the 'blad back.

Anybody else out there interested in long roll film?

I've been content with my 8x10 Sinar Norma for twenty years now. When I get to where I'm going, I'm glad it's there. I've also owned a nice Deardorff, but I prefer the Sinar.

I went to Lowes, and picked up a can of "Adhesive Remover". This is a paste you can lay on with a small brush, and is intended to break down just about anything applied under commercial grade carpeting. I cut the end of a bamboo chopstick, to make a scraping tool, so that applying elbow grease won't hurt the camera. I've used it recently on the K60 Prism, and it removed every bit of residue.

Hi Michael,

 

Now that is a great pictorial shot. Wish we could have dramatic weather like that around here. I see that your 50Flek does work very nicely for you.

Here, I'll try again.

 

http://hassydan.tripod.com

hassydan.tripod.com

 

 

All shot with P6 mount lenses.

Not long ago I bought on Ebay, a new in box Panchromar 118mm Red filter. My intention was to use it for Infared shooting with the 500mm Prakticar. I found the filter in Warsaw, Poland from the dealer foto_hobby .

 

Not long after that purchase, I found a Heliopan 4" Gel filter holder, which will press-fit very neatly into the ring of a disassembled 118mm Panchromar filter. I'm presently holding the whole thing together with strips of photographic gaffer tape.

I just had an old Hasselblad Ringflash adapted to the Norman 200b powerpack. Flash Clinic in NYC did the mod for $50. Works great and fires a full 200 watt-seconds through the tube (or 100WS or 50WS), and it's very portable. A classic fahion photographer's tool.

The 200b auction is for a -charger- only. You'll need a 200b power pack, and a new battery, if you go with Norman. I went with a brand new trickle charger from the same place I got my batteries, although I own and have used the Norman charger. I did ruin one of my batteries by quick-charging it with the Norman charger. I would talk to one of the experts, if you go the Norman route. There is also Holly Enterprises in Los Angeles, they also do the Norman ringlight modification.

 

The Lumedyne pack looks like a deal for $35, but I don't know if it will adapt, I'm not familar with Lumedyne.

I just sent a week ago my Hblad ringflash to www.flashclinic.com to convert to two Norman 200b packs I have purchased on the cheap. They told me $50 over the phone, to modify everything. The power packs have a tendency to "afterglow" after the tube fires, so they adjust the pack accordingly. Beat up Norman packs will put 200WS through the tube with no problems.

 

You can do it yourself, they were willing to tell me which pins to solder, you also need a jumper wire between two of the pins. But I will leave that to the experts, thank you very much, considering the -booku- high voltages involved.

Whoops,

Forgot to mention, buy one of the spiral-bound Norma instruction books on ebay. It explains all the accessories, and how to use them. Should also include a small tin of grease for lubing certain points on the camera. Everything you will need to understand is there.

Great workhorse cameras in my studio, have 2-4x5, and an 8x10. I am familar with all the accessories, have roughly 2/3 of the hundreds available. Lots and lots of versatility.

 

The Construction Unit brochure shows all the goodies available. And of course, you can use -modern- Sinar with this camera, as well.

 

Happy Shooting!