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andrew_lee2

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Posts posted by andrew_lee2

  1. >Any kind of protrusions on your lens?

    <br><br>

    The little piece that stops down the diaphragm (the aperture blades), but that's pretty much it.

    <br><br>

    FYI, this had me frustrated (I'd been waiting on these individual pieces for a long time, and for it not to work once I had everything- ugh), so I was able to somewhat fashion them all together in such a way that the lens is now sitting on the camera, but the mount is very tenuous- the lens isn't clicked into place onto the adapter, and the adapter isn't clicked into place on the body. Takes pictures just fine, however (this was what I was mainly interested in testing).

  2. Hello,

    <br><br>

    I just got one of these C/Y Zeiss -> Canon EOS lens adapters:

    <br><br>

    <IMG SRC="http://i15.ebayimg.com/04/i/04/76/a6/d9_1_b.JPG"></IMG>

    <br><br>

    And I'm not able to mount my manual focus C/Y 50mm f1.4 Zeiss lens onto my D30

    (not 30D, D30). I can mount the adapter to the lens just fine, but once this is

    done, the lens+adapter won't mount on the D30. Similarly, I can mount the

    adapter onto the D30, but once this is done, I can't mount the Zeiss onto the

    D30+adapter.

    <br><br>

    Anyone know what's going on? Is my issue with the lens, the adapter, or the

    camera?

    <br><br>

    Thanks,

    <br><br>

    Drew

  3. Hello,

     

    I've noticed that manual focus Zeiss lenses in Contax/Yashica mount tend to

    fall in one of two camps:

     

    - AE lenses made in Germany or "West Germany"

     

    - MM lenses made in Japan

     

    Does where the lens is made (Germany or Japan), or whether the lens is AE or

    MM, have any effect whatsoever on the end result (i.e., the image)? German-made

    lenses tend to command a premium over Japanese-made lenses, and I was wondering

    if there was a legitimate reason behind this, or (more likely) it's just

    another part of Zeiss myth/lore/marketing/consumer herd mentality.

     

    Thanks!

     

    Drew

  4. Hello,

     

    I've almost always used D-76 1:1 (and almost always Tri-X or HP5 exposed at EI

    400), and I've been happy with the results. After a brief foray into dig, I'm

    ready to try developing at home again. My D-76 brew appears to be expired (it's

    yellowed, and a roll I had developed prior with it turned out unusably grainy,

    i.e., not grainy in a good way), so it's giving me an excuse to try something

    new. Would anyone like to throw any recommendations out there? If it helps, I

    prefer longer tonal scales and shadow detail (i.e., versus contrasty looks) as

    well as grain that tends to be sharper (e.g., same reason I prefer Tri-X/HP5

    over TMax or TCN400). I don't mind grain as long as it's not 'mushy'- I'm not

    trying to achieve a smooth, digital-like look. Danke!

     

    Drew

  5. Hello,

     

    This is an embarrassing question, but I just took delivery of a used Nikon D1,

    and it appears to only record blank white files? This is regardless of which

    lens [of two I have here] I use, a 55/3.5 AI Micro-Nikkor, and a 50/2 that is

    probably NAI; both are MF. I've fiddled around with seemingly all the settings

    and searched online to no avail. I admit, these big auto cameras with a zillion

    buttons, settings, and features (even though the D1 dates back to 1999) are a

    bit much for me, since I'm accustomed to simple, fully mechanical MF cameras,

    but I don't believe I'm overlooking anything totally obvious. I'm using a Lexar

    256MB CF card, which I doubt is the issue. Anyone know what's going on?

     

    Thanks so much.

  6. Hello,

     

    Is it possible to have an AI lens that

     

    1) does NOT have holes in the "ears"

    2) does NOT have the second row of aperture engravings?

     

    I just got one (an old-style 50/2) from KEH that was listed as AI, showed a

    picture of "holey" ears in the product photo (even though it may have been

    stock), and even says "AI" on the plastic baggy that came with the lens, but

    the lens has the characteristics I mentioned in items #1-2 above, plus it does

    something funny with the mirror (not sure what, but I hear it) when I

    mount/dismount the lens from the camera body.

     

    On the other hand, it doesn't have the "pointy" ears (or collars, if you will)

    of the non-AI lenses. The ears are rounded, they just don't have holes.

     

    I'm strongly inclined to believe that they sent me a non-AI version but wanted

    to just be completely sure.

     

    Thanks!

  7. Specifically, how does the D1's viewfinder stack up to viewfinders in current-

    generation consumer DSLRs? My point of reference is the D80- the only DSLR I've

    had any experience with.

     

    More broadly speaking, how does the D1 stack up against current-generation

    consumer DSLRs? Aside from obvious things, like the fact that the D1 looks like

    a beast, was meant for pros, was at the cutting edge of technology at the time

    (~ 1999), 2MP v. a zillion, etc., what are some of the less-obvious practical

    differences between this and the el cheapo DSLRs of today like the D40 or

    Canon's Digital Rebel?

     

    For you current owners out there, are they still holding up, and have they aged

    nicely?

     

    The fact that these can be had for CHEAP right now (around $300 and falling, it

    seems) is very tempting indeed. Of course, the flip side to that is, how low

    will they go? Canon D30s were going for about $500 a couple years ago and those

    seem to have fallen to around $300 today as well. Will dealers be practically

    giving these away another few years from now?

     

    Thanks!

  8. I'd like to get an SLR prime lens to take pictures of small products -- say,

    other cameras ;) -- for selling on fleabay and such. My question is, what's a

    good single focal length to get for this purpose? Normal, like 50mm? Short

    telephoto, like an 85mm? How about macro lenses, like a 50mm macro or 60mm

    macro?

     

    Thanks a lot. If you think a prime lens is absolutely terrible for this

    application then I guess I can consider zooms, but I do prefer primes. Also,

    this will be used with a DSLR and I know about the focal length field of view

    crop (~ 1.5x), so if you say that 50mm is a good focal length to have, then I

    would know to get a 35mm lens, etc. etc. Thanks!

  9. <i>Andrew..the OM3 was only made in black, the OM4ti was made in black and also in a very poorly wearing pale titanium colour, the OM3ti was only made in the dark grey titanium you mention.</i>

    <p>

    Pity. Unfortunately, I'm one of those people who happen to care about these types of things (and I am man enough to admit it) :) I find the dark grey titanium finish very desirable, so it's a shame the 3ti is so overpriced.

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