eugene_singer
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Posts posted by eugene_singer
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Paul, I read your question and saw that you emphasized the word SPECIFIC cameras. I will not try to convince you to consider buying my favorite camera, as others have attempted to do. I have not actually used cameras made by either of the two camera manufacturers that you have specified. However, I have read and studied quite a bit about them. You did not specify which model Ebony you are referring to. I am assuming, by the price you quoted, that it is one of their lower priced models. Therefore, my conclusion: of the two cameras you have selected, CHOOSE THE EBONY! The Caltar lens that Calumet is offering is a re-badged Rodenstock Geronar. It is not one of the top-of-the-line Rodenstock lenses.
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Raymond, it's going to be very difficult to find a 6X12 negative holder for an Omega enlarger (4X5- D Series). I've never seen one. It would probably be easier to use a 4X5 glass negative carrier and mask off the 6X12 area with black paper or tape. I like the 135 EL-Nikkor enlarging lens.
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Keith, you may be able to adapt a 2X3 Graphic folding hood to use on your camera, however, it is not magnifying viewer, or a reflex viewer. Mostly, just used to protect the groundglass.
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Jason, I'm glad you said it, instead of me. I've never used the 240 Tele Arton, so I didn't want to repeat what I had heard about it. I hope you're wearing your asbestos suit. Watch out for the flames!
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Keith, my Toyo catalogue lists a "Folding Focusing Hood for the sliding Back Adapter #180-810". The Sliding Back Adapter fits on the back of the camera, replacing the 4X5 groundglass. According to the picture, it appears as if the hood attaches to the adapter by means of hinge pins, similar to the 4X5 and 5X7 Toyo folding focusing hoods. The Sliding Back Adapter connects to the camera with Grafloc-type sliders, and the folding hood connects to the Adapter with hinge pins. I doubt that it would fit directly on a Cambo 23SF, without some sort of modification. Also, the Toyo Folding Focusing Hood is not equipped with a magnifying lens, like the Cambo In-Line Viewer.
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Graeme, look at the Midwest Photo Exchange website (mpex.com). Midwest imports new Tachihara field cameras and Fujinon lenses, and sells new and used equipment at very reasonable prices. I happen to know that a shipment of Shen Hao HZX 45-AII cameras are on their way, as we speak. Call, or E-mail Jim (jim@mpex.com). Tell him that you saw the recommendation on this website. He will package up your choice of a Tachi or a Shen Hao, with a new, or used, Fuji or Nikon lens. They are both fine, low priced light weight folding field cameras that fit the purpose you described. He ships worldwide. and can save you some money.
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Jay, your question didn't go that far off track. The Schneider 270 Tele Arton is a fine lens. It's larger and heavier than the Fuji 300 T. However, it is not the best choice to use as a portrait lens. It's a moderate focal length tele-type lens, requiring less bellows extension than a "normal" lens to focus at infinity. It certainly can be used for portraiture. However, since your camera has the bellows extension capability, it's not really necessary use a tele lens for portraiture. For example, Schneider makes a 270 G-Claron. It's smaller, lighter, and less expensive, and it would be a better choice to use as a portrait lens. It's a very sharp lens for portraiture, but the image can be softened in the camera, with a softening filter, or in the darkroom, when making the print.
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Ilfosol-S does not seem to have a long shelf life. It contains sodium ascorbate (Vitamin C). The stock solution does not turn dark when the developer begins to oxidize and go bad, the way other developers do. Perhaps the developer was old when you bought it. Others have reported this problem. Try using Ilford DD-X, and see if it makes a difference.
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Jay, I have a Fuji 300 tele. and use it for outdoor work. Although it can be used for portraiture, and many photogs. use them, it's probably not the best choice. Tele's seem to flatten out the perspective when used at closer distances. The best thing I like about the Fuji 300T is that it is mounted in the smaller, lighter Copal 0 shutter. I use a Fuji 240A with a Tiffen Soft FX filter for portraiture on my 4X5 camera.
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Alex, Domke Wraps use a type of hook and loop material (similar to Velcro) that does not shread. They are layered with a thin shock absorbing foam, and are lined with an excellent quality material that does not scratch the finish on shutters and lensboards. They are a good investment. I use the 19 inch size to wrap and protect my Toyo A cameras. See badgergraphic.com Look under large format-bags and cases-Domke.
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Alex, it's a good idea to keep your lenses mounted in shutters and the shutters mounted on their respective lensboards at all times. Make certain that the front and rear lenscaps are in place to protect the glass. Use the 15 inch size Domke protective wraps to wrap the entire lens, shutter, and lensboard. They come in a variety of colors for easy identification. If there is the possibility that the lenses will be exposed to moisture, sand, or dust, place the wrapped lenses in protective plastic containers or ziploc bags in your camera bag.
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Gene, it's an archaic word for professional. Those lens were originally designed to be used by professional (commercial) photographers. The connotation was used as a marketing ploy. The labels on the boxes for my new Fuji lenses say "Fujinon Professional Lens". Similar connotation.
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Richard, Bob Salomon's E-mail address is bob@hpmarketingcorp.com.
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The type of bellows material that Toyo uses for their 45A field cameras is a synthetic material that they call Flexilast. It seems to be a moulded plastic. It is resistant to moisture. There doesn't appear to be stiffeners in the pleats, like the ones used in the folded pleated bellows made of leather or nylon material. I suspect that exposure to excessive heat caused that bellows to deform, in the first place. I doubt that heating the material, again, will correct the problem. I talked to the Mamiya America service department yesterday regarding a part for my AII. They have a very high regard for the value of their parts and service (In other words, they aren't cheap).
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Paul, by using a combination of base tilts and axis tilts, on both the front and rear standards, it is possible to get 360mm of bellows extension on the Shen Hao HZX45AII. There is quite a bit of useful info. about the camera at camerachina.com and badgergraphic.com.
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Curtis, it's true. A picture is worth a thousand words. Now that I have a clear image, I can tell you that that is a severely wrinkled bellows. Way beyond normal. Not very pretty to look at. It probably doesn't leak and is still serviceable, but severly lowers the re-sale value of the camera. The bellows can be replaced. Not an inexpensive repair job. Looks like you have a big decision to make.
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Chris, it would help if you would elaborate a little more on why you are asking this question. Are you contemplating the purchase of a Shen Hao? Also, be aware that at least two 4X5 Shen Hao models are presently being marketed in the US. Which model are you referring to? The Shen Hao HZX45AII model that my wife owned had a heck of a lot of features for a camera in it's price range. Areas where the camera could be improved? Sure there were some of those. But what can you expect for under $650? The Shen Hao is not a Wisner, Gandolfi, or an Ebony. However, I believe it can hold it's own against the Tachihara, Wista, Zone VI, or Horseman Woodman cameras. It certainly has more rear movement capability than any of those cameras. The HZX 45AII also has an interchangeable bellows option. It's a great camera for the money.
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P.S. it is normal when the bellows does not immediately fold back after it has been stretched way out. Sometimes it needs help with fingers to refold it properly.
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Curtis, the first three bellows folds and the last three bellows folds, on both of our Toyo A's, have smaller size pleats. This allows for more flexibility when the bellows is compressed. For example, when using front rise with a 90 wide angle lens. Is this what you are referring to?
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Christopher, try inserting a large Fender washer between the camera and the UR plate. These washers are made of thin metal. They come in a variety of diameters in both brass and steel. They are available at most hardware stores. Just make certain that the center hole is large enough to accomodate the mounting screw. If a Fender washer doesn't work, you will probably be better off switching to a different tripod head. One with a smaller QR plate.
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Ronald, look at the Ilford website (www.ilford.com). Click on products - film - FP-4+. There is a section on the tech. sheet for FP-4+ film that shows the developing times for Rodinal, depending on how you want to rate the speed of the film. It also shows various dilutions of Rodinal that are useable in order to obtain the results you are looking for.
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David, as you and I discussed off of this forum, I suspect that your developer is no longer working. Ilfosol-S has a very short shelf life, to begin with, and you had no control over the age of the product when you purchased it. Who knows how long it was sitting on the dealer's shelf? Try mixing a one liter package of Ilford Microphen powder film developer (less than $3 from B&H) in distilled water. Dilute it 1:1 with distilled water when you are ready to process. The developing times for the films you use are available at ilford.com. Look under the tech, sheet for Microphen. I think your problem will be solved.
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Mike, the Schneider 3b center filter screws into the 67mm threaded filter mount of the 58XL,80XL, and 110XL lenses. The front accessory thread is 86mm. The push-on lens cap that comes with the CF is 90mm. You will need to increase exposure 1.5 stops. The lens needs to be stopped down at least two stops from wide open, for maximum effect.
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Mike, go the Schneider XL route. Start with the 110XL. You may never find a need for a shorter focal length lens. But, if you do, the 80XL is available. Anything shorter than 80mm is going to require a camera with wide angle capability (recessed lensboard- bag bellows, etc.).
Ebony RW45 vs Zone VI Ultralight (and others) - Please Help!
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