scott_k.
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Posts posted by scott_k.
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Nikon n2000
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I use a 408 and I love it, although i use it primarity for MF stuff. The only bad thing that I can say about it takes a couple of seconds between the time you turn it on until the time that it is ready to meter, but that is really a pretty minor thing and worth putting up with for such a great meter.
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lets hear it for the flyfisherman!
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Looks alot like B&W with a red filter on it... to contrasty for no filter.
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Nahh, I've tried it and I like it, but I have had a hard time finding a developer that produces consistent results, HC110 seems to work well though ... lets not turn this thread into an argument on developers for tmx.
I've become more of a one film guy recently, and have been enjoying the consistency that I have been gettin from it.
-Scott
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Sorry, email me @ wskitche@olemiss.edu to trade.
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I accidentally ordered 5 rolls of 100TMX from B&H (Made in USA)
instead of TX, I don't really want to deal with returning this to
B&H and paying for shipping twice. All are in boxes and are
unopened, although one box is slightly ripped. Plain Tri-X only, no
TXP.
-Scott Kitchens
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Look at Kowa, They are superb cameras, with extremely sharp lenses and rugged bodies that are very high quality. I really can't say enough good things for them!!! They are leaf shuttered and really smooth. They were introducerd to compete with Hassy's in the late 1960's, an ceased production in the late 70's. You should be able to get a Super 66 with 85mm lens on ebay for $300 or less.... a bargain!
-Scott
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I usually wrangle it into the neg carrier anyway, and put it into my filing system. Within a couple of months, the film will usually be pretty flat.
-Scott
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If you know nothing about B+W stuff, you might be better off with a chromogenic black and white film (one that can be done in c-41 chemistry) Kodak has a couple, they have always worked well for meWhen Printed they have a sepia sort of tone(but it depends upon the lab) It also does not have b+w grain, it uses std dye cloud c-41 technology. So that could be a plus.
Other B+W
TMX(TMax 100) is good, fine grained, but finnicky when developing it. I get decent results with HC110(although I lose some shadow detail). I want to try a dif develper, but i really like oneshot)
TMY (Tmax 400) is an O.K. film, nothing special Try TX instead. TMY will look particularly horrid if developed in d-76 1:1 and printed on ilford mg.
TX (Tri-x) has become my new favorite, it has all sorts of exposure latitude... it will get everything. Which is great if you left your meter in the car and are just guessing or have a real high contrast situation. Granier than most others, but still a nice tonal range, It can pick up the brightest snow and some pretty deep shadows. It looks good in most developers.
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I can usually get 1/30 or 1/15 with my Kowa Super 66. THe mirror slap on kowas, while loud, is nothing compared to that on my bronica sq-a. I have heard that this is because the kowa has some sort of air piston thing going on to stop mirror slap shock(I think i read that in a '60s modern photography).
The Kowa is a great camera, I like it better than my bronica for a lot of reasons. The ONLY thing the bronica has on it is weight.
-Scott
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According to Kodak, if using Dillution b of hc110, the time is 8.5 mins.
You can see for yourself at
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4016/f4016.jhtml?id=0.2.6.18.4.4&lc=en
scroll down to the push processing section
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I personally think the Kowa screen is very bright and works just great on my Super 66. Although I do use the one with microsprims in the middle.
As far as fitting a Kiev prism to the Kowa, I really do not think that it would be possible. I toyed with the idea for a while, but i think the base of the Kiev prisms are too long in the back to fit well with Kowas. I ended up purchasing a couple of Kowa prisms, nonmetered and I HATED them. The prisms were fine and well made etc, but i just did not like using a prism with my Kowa, i much prefer WLF with eye close to magnifer. I owned both a Kowa 45deg and Kowa 90deg prisms, and I don't think they magnified enough. I did use a Kowa metered Chimney exposure finder and liked it alot. Later, I got rid of it becasue it added too much bulk to the camera.
I am perfectly happy with the WLF and using a light meter.
-Scott
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I recently saw a post below that said that hypo clear should be
discarded after one use. That sounds absurd to me. The package for
HC gives no specific directions for HC use with film. So, what is
the proper way to store and use it??
I mix my hypo clear with 1.25 gallons of water. And keep it stored
in a container. I use the solution after an inital 30sec wash with
water. I use a clear containter, so i just leave it in the HC until
the pink stain on the film is gone. I then return the HC to its
container.
I usually replace the HC after about 30 or 40 rolls, not because it
stops working, but just because I fell like it should be replaced.
But I wonder how long it will work for, the package does say that the
1.25 gallons is good for 150-200 8x10 negatives (or the same # of
rolls). But it goes onto say that it should be discarded after 24
hours in an open tray.
The system I have is working, but i wonder if i should just wait
until I have done 150 rolls to replace the stuff. These chemicals
don't seem like they would loose the ability to neutralize the fixer
no matter how long you kept them.
-Scott
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Actually, if you delve more into the Kodak Site, you will discover that TMY was moved to the new processing facility a few years ago. So it is the same film it has been for a while, just a new name to match the rest of kodaks pro b/w on the shelf.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/qAndA.jhtml
Its about the 10th question
-Scott
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If you want a high quality system for realatively little $$$, try Kowa. Kowa is a well known optics company that produced a line of MF cameras in the 70's. They are really well built and the lenses are SHARP!!
Kowa made 3 models the Six, Six MM, and super 66. The 6 is basic, the mm has multiple exposure and mirror lockup, and the super 66 has interchangeable backs and multiple exposure. I have owned all of them, but have kept the Super 66 even though it is heavier than the other two. I have found nothing to complain about with the Kowas. All take the same lens mount(kowa) the lenses use leaf shutters. You can get an six outfit(camera, WLF, 85mm lens) on ebay for less than $280 or so, a super 66 is a tad more expensive.
-Scott
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If it has only one inflow and one outflow, then it is probably a rapid pass-thru water heater. You set the temperature you want, it heats your cold water and it spits water out at that temp. I think that this is the most likely answer.
-Scott
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Hello, I just recently got into MF and am looking for a cheap(hey i'm
in college) place to get some e-6 and c-41 work done. I ran across a
place that could do 8x8 proofs from c41 for really cheap(mail order,
but i lost the link, they also would do 220 slides for 7 or 8 bucks.
I really need to find a cheap place to do this and any help would be
appreicated! Thanks.
Scott
Program Your VCR's
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
For those who missed the Re-broadcast on C-SPAN, you can find a streaming version here.
http://streams.wgbh.org/forum/forum.php?lecture_id=1075