Ken Katz

Only the Olympus OMDs have a built in EVF, and are comparable to a Pany G1. A used Olympus EM-5 would likely be the least expensive Olympus option with both a built in EVF and IBIS, though it may be possible to find a really good deal on a new EM-10. The 16mp Sony sensor in these models provide a vast improvement over any 12mp M43 camera in terms of dynamic range and high ISO performance.

So I guess that DPP 4 will never support my trusty 5D. Its a good thing that Adobe continues to support older cameras when they update their software.

EV systems: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value I do remember the EV system for Hasselblads and thought it was neat, but you could also read the combinations of applicable shutter speeds and apertures right from the dial of your favorite exposure meter. Built in meters which were coupled to the cameras exposure system (either match needle or AE) was a simpler solution. Frankly I don't know how I managed using match needle exposure systems that didn't have the visual highlight/shadow clipping indications I now see in my EVF before taking the photo. FYI, I still cherish my Canonet QL17 (in black), that I inherited from my father.

I have owned the 17-40mm for many years and I would not recommend getting such a relatively large and heavy lens for a light weight crop sensor camera. I would expect that either of the 2 available STM equipped standard lenses (18-55 or 18-135) would be a better fit and both have IS. The new 10-18 STM has received very good reviews but it does take a reasonable amount of experience to properly use such a wide lens, and does your relative currently have such skill. The 15-85mm would be high on my list given the extended range and purportedly good optical quality. On FF, I find the extreme corners on the 17-40mm to be soft at 17mm (even at F11), and usually limit myself to 19 or 20mm if I need good corner to corner performance. Would probably get the new 16-35 f4 IS if I were to replace the 17-40. Use M43 most of the time now so that's not likely to happen anytime soon.

The V-Lux seems like a really nice camera, especially for travel. And the substantially identical Panasonic FZ-1000 received a very good review: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonic-lumix-dmc-fz1000 Its hard to comment on how it would perform, compared with your current Nikon or a modern version of your D200, without discussing how you intend to use it and what you will be shooting. A Nikon DX camera has about 3x larger sensor than the VLux / FZ1000, so I would anticipate that a modern Nikon would have a material advantage in high ISO performance. I would also expect the modern Sony 1" sensor in the Leica to outperform the CCD sensor in your D200. The Panasonic cost significantly less than the Leica version, but whether there is value in the difference is up to you.

Both Panasonic and Olympus make pancake ("smaller") 14-42mm zooms, but they would not represent any material reduction in weight, and their cost is not insignificant. If an EPL-2 plus the kit zoom is too heavy then perhaps you need to consider a high quality compact camera, like the Sony RX100, or Canon GX7, which would be smaller and lighter than your current camera and lens. Both of those options are not inexpensive though.

With a VF-1, you would first need to use the LCD to lock focus and set your aperture/shutter-speed, since the optical VF-1 does not show any information. The EVF options show all the information as is on the LCD and provides a more seamless interface to the camera. While the VF-3 has less resolution that the VF-2, it does have a locking mechanism and it has never fallen off my ELP-2, and should likely be cheaper to buy.

Portsmouth, NH<div></div>

Sorry to hear that. Perhaps taping some material around the diameter of the battery will work. Good news is that there is very large supply of unused EOS film cameras around (I have 2 of them), so replacing one should not be a problem.

The problem is that there seems to be a variability in the size of various brands of 2CR5 batteries. Assuming its the correct battery (check with the Canon Museum or an on-line copy of the owners manual), try cutting out an index card in the shape of the bottom of the battery and tape 2 or 3 layers of that (or more) onto the bottom of the battery until it is a snug fit, and the battery door still closes. This was a trick to get an Elan II to work properly and it has worked perfectly for me during the last 15+ years.

Don't really do wildlife, but came across this image while shooting fall landscapes. Rockefeller State Park Reserve, Pleasantville, NY<div></div>

If you want to read reviews of the Pentax by a professional photography who actually owns and uses the 645Z, along with Hasselblad 500 series cameras (and 39mp back), plus an extensive Nikon system (810/800E plus Zeiss lenses including 2 Otus lenses), perhaps you should take a look here: http://blog.mingthein.com/other-reviews/ Ming also backs up his review with excellent images.

For reasons that are well documented, FD lenses simply don't work on an EOS camera. I would also avoid older Sigma lenses, due to potential malfunctions on newer EOS cameras. A Sigma lens which is documented to work with your 550D would likely be Ok and newer Sigma lenses seem to work fine. Unless you are willing to give up auto focus, auto aperture, and IS, then looking at adapting older manual focus lenses would not be a practical solution. Assuming the lens that broke is the 70-300 USM/IS model (which is a reasonably good lens), have you looked into getting it fixed or picking up a used model to save money? You could also look into getting a Tamron 70-300 VR lens, which is generally sold cheaper than the Canon 70-300IS and is purported to have similar optical qualities. For EOS compatible lenses in the 400-600mm range, Bob Atkins has a review on many of those options, and also reviews on the Canon and Tamron 70-300 lenses (plus lots of useful information on EOS cameras) http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/telefoto.htm

Sales tax in NYC for cameras (and most stuff) is 8.875%

At B&H, the price would be same at the store or on-line. You would have to pay NYC sales tax for in store purchases. If you never have seen B&H in person it is worth the experience, just check on their schedule to make sure its not a holiday when you go. Also they are never open on Saturday. and close early Friday afternoon.

Olympus EM-5 plus Oly 12-40 F2.8. While not featherweight, the combo weighs about the same as my Canon 5D body. A very good sensor, sharp/fast mid range zoom, very fast single AF, and excellent IBIS provides a reasonably wide shooting envelope. With a tiny f1.8 prime, I am reasonable set for walking around all day, even with my increasingly painful back issues.

If you plan on using manual focus lenses, consider going with an EOS 3 or any of the EOS 1 series cameras. These cameras have interchangeable focus screens which would enable you to choose a focusing screens that would be better for manual focus than the standard screen. I still own an EOS 3, and while it is somewhat bigger and louder than an EOS 7, it has a wonderful viewfinder, and is a joy to shoot.

Since you seem to be using mostly Nikon professional F2.8 zooms, I don't think that any third party alternative zooms would likely provide you with any optical or mechanical improvement. Photographers who are attempting to extract the best image quality out of 36mp DSLRs seem to be looking at Zeiss primes (including the $4K Otus lenses) and/or the Sigma Art lenses. Very good glass, a good tripod and head, plus rock solid technique seems to be the key to extracting all that a D800 is capable of.

Its a $12,000 lens that's now been turned into a boat anchor by the damage. What choice do you have but to repair it or sell it as is for a huge discount. If you used a credit card to purchase the lens, many cards provide additional warranty coverage and/or coverage for accidental damage. It may make sense to check that out.

A nice family trip which we did a number of years ago was to go from Vegas to Bryce Canyon National Park, to Lake Powell, to the Grand Canyon (north rim), to Zion National Park, and then back to Vegas. The longest drive was about 4 to 5 hours from Vegas to Bryce, while the rest of the drives were generally shorter. You will need to check to see when some of these parks open for the season, especially if you travel in April. You should also start to book accommodations in and around the parks. Death Valley in early April would be wonderful, but it is the opposite direction of the Utah and Arizona locations. Yosemite is a considerable drive from Vegas and some you would also need to check what roads are open early in the season. From Yosemite I would consider flying out of San Francisco instead of going back to Vegas I have visited all these locations with family, and you really can't go wrong with of them. Compared with some of the other National Parks, Bryce is smaller and very accessible , with incredible photo opportunities.

A Good day at the Bronx Zoo.<div></div>

Its your back, neck, and shoulder, not mine, so I think you need to judge if a few additional pounds will be be too much. Do you find that you are in need of an extra f stop or that a 1 stop wider aperture would improve the look of your images? Will a f2.8 aperture on the standard zoom compensate for the loss of IS that you have with the f4 standard zoom? The increase in size and weight is more significant for the 70-200, so perhaps you should rent a 70-200 F2.8IS for a week and add it to your kit and then decide if you can tolerate its size and weight. From a pure IQ prospective, I don't think there would be much difference between the current generation of F4L options vs F2.8L options.

While I have been waiting for this announcement, at almost 27oz (without tripod collar), it is unlikely I will acquire this lens for my kit. It weighs about the same as my beloved Canon 70-200 f4 IS L, which when combined with an FF body, and few additional lenses, resulted in a kit that I really do not want to walk around with. At this point, to replace my 6 oz Oly 40-150 f5.6 I may look at the Panny 35-100 f2.8, the Oly 75 f1.8, or wait for a manufacturer to develop a high quality 40-150 f4 at 1/2 the weight of this this lens. For a professional photographer or someone who has a healthier back than me, this lens may be a great addition.

" I guess I will have to wait a bit longer" I think that is the only solution if you want to stay with M43 or another mirrorless option. It is likely that continuous AF performance will improve in the next generation of OMD cameras, especially since Olympus is really gearing up to provide additional professional level lenses in the near future. Canon's dual pixel AF technology may provide significant improvement in on sensor continuous AF, but there is no evidence that they are committed to developing a competitive mirrorless product line.

In the Lightroom develop module, in the Camera Calibration tab, you can the change the Profile from Adobe Standard to a standard that is suppose to match the Olympus profiles. While I usually use the flatter Adobe Standard profile as a starting point, occasionally I use other profiles which I assume match the profiles built into my Olympus em-5, which generally have higher contrast and saturation which compared with Adobe Standard. Perhaps one of these profiles will be closer to how Aperture processed the files. Also in the Tone Curve section you can apply a higher contrast curve with one click.