Ken Katz

"Amazon has a $160 kit" IMHO, most of the extra stuff in a kit is usually junk. Since you have close up attachments, just get the applicable adaptor ring and use what you have. Don't really need a UV filter and I usually find that the official Canon lens hood (a bayonet type) will be easier to use than a collapsible rubber hood, and worth the Canon ripoff pricing. Get a couple of name brand 32 or 64GB cards, which are real cheap now.

Based on a 5 minute google search, $400 for a 70D in good conditions seems about right today. Obviously, a more modern sensor will perform better, but it should be OK at ISO 6400. The 50mm f1.8 STM sells for $125 at Amazon, B&H, ect. Not sure what lens kit you mean but with a deep recessed front element, a filter for just protection is really not needed. Effective 80mm FF equivalent field of view of view. Another model to consider would be the Canon 6D selling at around $600. The FF sensor will easily give you another stop of high ISO performance over a 70D and the 50mm lens provides a 50mm field of view. I would agree to take your time to decide.

"Nah! You just look through it like any other viewfinder" You don't need to sell me on a EVF and I will never go back to an OLV, but with an EVF you need to choose (or have the option to choose); what info is in the EVF and EVF Style, how long you want the taken image to remain frozen in your EVF (or finding the setting in the menu to eliminate that "feature"), how many AF points you want to use and where they are located in the vf, EVF white balance and brightness, high hz setting for reducing VF lag shooting moving subjects, and finding the EVF boost option (or OVF simulation option) when you are purposely underexposing ambient exposure (like when using flash in certain circumstances). Perhaps I am just tainted by the overly complex and unintuitive Olympus menu system I have been using for 10 years (and 3 camera bodies).

I agree with rodeo_joe. A Nikon 5000 or 7000 series camera with its VR kit lens would be a very capable image maker, and should be available within your price range. The high ISO capabilities of these cameras are far better than any film alternative, and the VR system will buy you at least 3 stops of slow shutter hand holding ability (with static subjects of course). Canon also made similarly capable and priced DSLRs, but did not make an inexpensive, fast 35mm lens for their APSC cameras as did Nikon. Personally I would only look at mirrorless options, but I have been swimming in the EVF pond for 10 years already. For a person who currently uses a manual focus SLR, an EVF adds an additional layer of tech complexity over and above a modern DSLR.

"Leaving aside all the jpeg vs RAW debate, did @Ricochetrider ever get to the bottom of his settings issue?" I am also curious whether or not the OP found a solution, but why worry about that when having a good old fashioned pissing match about something else is a time honored Photo.net tradition.

"purporters" generally denigrated the 70-300 IS (the first of its kind, by the way)" I believe the first of its kind IS telezoom was the Canon 75-300mm IS, which was similar optically to the 75-300 EF and the 100-300 EF USM (which I owned once), and was denigrated by many. I was discussing the 70-300mm IS (first generation since there is now a MK II version). Our old friend at PN did a review of it and thought it was a material improvement over the 75-300mm IS: Canon EF 70-300/4-5.6IS USM Lens Review. The good news is that it seems to cost about $200 now and will work right with any old EOS SLR or DSLR.

Since the flange focal length of the Z mount is 4mm shorter than the R mount, it should be feasible to produce such a converter, though I would not hold my breath waiting for it. There are converters to mount an EF lens on a Z camera, so that option currently exists.

I would expect that a 35mm FOV equivalent lens would not be ideal for a tight head shot but would be fine for almost anything else. If you really want a 35mm FF FOV, then the Fuji X100 may be what you want. Other pocketable alternatives would be the Sony RX100 series and similar cameras from Panasonic and Canon which use a large sensor (for a compact camera), but a sensor that is still much smaller than the APSc sensor in the Fuji. Those cameras have zooms generally from 24mm (FF FOV) up to 200mm. Any interchangeable lens camera will of course be far larger and heavier than these fixed lens alternatives. You may want to consider a Nikon Z50 with its very compact 16-50mm kit lens (24-75mm FF FOV). Really good camera, great sensor, and purportedly a really sharp kit lens.

I have no answers for this, and there is no mention of any firmware required to support the 7-14mm Pro, although there have been some significant firmware updates over the years. Just curious, does the camera operate normally with another Olympus lens? You can try Olympus tech support (LOL), but you may want to consider a complete reset back to factory specs if you can't get the problem solved.

"Respect for our fellows who share this place. Show them a Kindness....and we are not merciless killers." Agreed, and I really like raccoons and think they have endearing qualities. BUT, they are extremely destructive inside a house, can carry rabies, and their excrement can also carry Baylisascaris procyonis, a roundworm that can be very harmful to people. It is best that the animal either leaves on its own or you get a wildlife control person to humanely remove the animal(s) to a new home in the woods.

Almost a year ago, I bought a new EM-5 III after the shutter on my EM-5 I started to fail. At the time I looked at other APSC alternatives, like Fuji X, and concluded that I could not duplicate my current M43 system with Fuji without spending a whole lot more and carrying a material amount more weight (which was a non starter). In addition, I didn't really want to go through the learning curve of a new camera system. Post divestiture by Olympus, I don't know if I would make the same decision. I don't know if M43 will survive beyond the next 4-5 years. Perhaps by then I will be fine using just my phone and one of Sony's expensive 1" sensor compact wonder cameras. For my 65th birthday all I am looking for is covid vaccine and a $1K acoustic guitar that is far more capable than I am. Probably get the guitar well before a vaccine appointment.

Last year I sold my EOS 3 plus 2 EF "L" lenses for a reasonably significant amount. I doubt I will regret the sale since I have no plans to use film or a DSLR again (unless I miraculously receive a brand new L4 and L5 vertebrae).

"Sorry that is wrong, in the OP's context" Sorry for my error. No excuses, but perhaps an early senior moment.

I have owned a Canon zoom with IS and 3 Olympus M43 cameras with 3 generations of IBIS systems. IBIS absolutely works with 300mm and longer lenses (I have used it with a 600mm FF equivalent lens). There are generally 2 options to engage stabilization (i) only when taking an exposure and (ii) whenever the shutter button is depressed half way. Make sure you have set the option on the camera to engage IBIS when you half press the shutter if you want view its effect in your viewfinder. Your camera was introduced in 2006, so it is possible that IBIS is not as effective as newer systems. My first IBIS camera, Olympus EPL-2 had an OK IBIS system which was far less effective than the EM-5 that superseded it. The IBIS on my EM-5 III (introduced in 2019) is far more effective than the EM-5 Mk I. I would agree with JDMvW on the tripod question.

With a long lens, it is quite obvious when IS or IBIS is activated since the shaking of the image in your viewfinder gets noticeably reduced.

"since you can use canon flashes with fuji it should work right?" Unless someone knows something to the contrary, a Canon system compatible (ETTL) flash will not have through the lens meter capabilities when used on a Fuji X camera. It may work in full manual mode (flash output / aperture / shutter speed) set manually by the user or perhaps in auto flash mode (flash unit alone controls flash output and user must set the aperture and shutter speed manually on their camera). That said, the above described macro flash unit may work on a Fuji, but none of the dedicated TTL features will work.

"I'd like to get an IS lens for it. Tele range and not too expensive" The 1st generation Canon 70-300 IS telezoom may be in your price range, and is purported to be quite sharp for a consumer grade zoom (not a canon "L" lens).

"The cell phone will kill the camera industry next" It has certainly killed the small sensor compact camera market already. Frankly for most casual photo takers (not Photo.net users), a current generation smart phone camera is more than adequate.

Doesn't affect me much, but it's not surprising Costco is shuttering all remaining in-store photo departments in Canada, US by February 14

Having the back lens element much closer to the sensor apparently is beneficial in designing certain lenses (like wide angle lenses). So this may be why RF lenses may perform better than their EF counterparts. Perhaps someone with more technical knowledge can provide more insight.

The EOS 620 was introduced in 1987, a few years earlier than the Nikon N90. A contemporary to that Nikon would be the EOS A2 / EOS 5.

What Bebu said with respect to the black bar. WIth studio flash, I generally set my shutter speed at 1/3+ stops less than my maximum sync speed, since that is usually the quoted number for using dedicated (Nikon) flash units. For motion blur, the only I could think of is that there is enough ambient light blended in your exposure to cause that. Although it seems unlikely that your model moved that much to blur with a shutter speed of 1/160. Make sure your camera is set to manual exposure.

Not sure if it means much, but I sold my EOS 3 to KEH last February for $253. I assume they expected to resell it for more. Great film camera, but I simply have no interest in shooting film. Still have an Elan IIe left since the KEH offer for it made so sense to sell.

I think you can count on full compatibility with Canon EF lenses. With Sigma and other third party lenses, I would test the combination of lens and camera body before acquiring. There seems to be less of an issue with current generations of Canon DSLRs and Sigma lenses.

It probably is repairable by having the shutter replaced but would be much cheaper to just buy another camera