ruicardoso

Hello Eugene,

I tryed the recomendation that comes in the box and all I can say is: DON'T USE IT... Unless you want lots of contrast!...

I posted a question similar to yours, you can find it here:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004tnc

I even asked the maco's tech support about this (the answer's on that thread). But I feel there is still some testing I have to do to figure out my preffered time. My next try will be: ISO 25, Rondinal @ 1+50, 7 minutes (I took 20% to the development time of Agfa APX 25). But this is just a try...

Sorry not beeing of much help, but this is all I know at this point.

All the best,

-Rui Cardoso

Hello All,

I sent this question to the MACO support and this is the answer I Got:

________________________________________

Please use your experience with the AGFA APX 25.

All dev. conditions are the same, but change only the ISO from 25 to 50.

That's all.

The datas from the Agfa company for Rodinal are not perfect. We are giving this information into our homepage. Please use our film with your standards and it will be very fine.

________________________________________

Regards,

-Rui

All,

Thanks for the answers.

I Agree with Chris as I also preffer longer development times. I just used 1+12 because it was the only info I had to start with.

I checked the development times at http://www.jandcphotography.com (Efke 25) and they really seam a lot different from the ones at http://www.mahn.net/ (Maco Up 25) even to be taken as initial reference times for the same film.

Thanks,

-Rui Cardoso

Hello All,

I did my first try on developing a Maco UP 25 film in Rondinal using

the recomendation that comes in the box (20º, 1+12 dilution for 6

minutes) with continuous agitation for the first 15 seconds then 3

tank inversions at the begining of each minute.

The result where the most contrasty negs I ever had!

Before trying this I tryed to get more information in the web

regading this film (and the Efke 25 that is suposely the same - I'm

not completely sure about this) and found allmost nothing regarding

the development with the 3 developers I have at home (Rondinal, Tmax

and DDX).

Considering the results, I'm tempted to try Rondinal diluted at 1+25

using the same time (6 min) with my next film...

But first, if someone can help with these doubts, it would be great!

-Does anyone have real experiences about the development of this

film? (I checked the massive dev chart and the unblinking eye, also

for Efke 25 and didn't find much)

-Is there a rule of thumb to figure out what time to start with whem

increasing the dilution of Rondinal?

-I find the sugested time for TMAX (4 min) too low. Any ideias about

developing with DDX?

Thanks All,

-Rui Cardoso

I do not know if it will helpfull, but take a look at this:

http://www.photo.net/photo/1092409&size=lg

APX 100 was processed with Rondinal at 1+25. I've also used the 1+50 dilution with this film, but because at this time I'm not able to do my own printing, it's difficult do say what is my prefferred combination just by looking at scans (when scanning, results seam quite the same).

Regards,

-Rui

Hello All,

Thanks for your answers!... But i still have my main doubt: "in theory what should I expect when using different dilutions of Rondinal in terms of grain and tonal scale?" ... Can I assume that I'll allways have less contrast?... And what about grain?

Thanks,

-Rui

Hello All,

I've been using Rondinal mostly with Agfa APX 100 and Pan F. At this

point I'm not able to do my own printing, so I've been scanning film

and using a photo printer.

My doubt is: in theory what should I expect when using different

dilutions of Rondinal in terms of grain and tonal scale? Can I

easyally see those differences in the film itself, or will they only

show up in printing?

In the scans I do and for APX 100 I see no diference between the

films paroccessed at 1+25 and 1+50. And I can not find anything in

the Agfa site.

I usualy process Pan F at 1+50, just because I find the sugested

time for 1+25 too short.

Thanks All!

-Rui

Hello All,

I've been testing more about this issue and it seams that the camera goes longer than 8 seconds on auto-exposure mode, I tested it up to one minute!...

When I tried to set the camera to ISO 50, F22 and put the lens cap on, the camera jams and does not close the shutter curtain (after five minutes I found out that moving the shutter speed dial from Auto-Exposure to Manual-Exposure unjams the camera)...

Any ideias about this?

Thanks in Advance,

-Rui

Hy all,

I'm quite new to film processing, I've been developing my films

using a 1520 Jobo Tank and using the Jobo Cascade accessory to wash

films inside the tank.

The specs for the Jobo Cascade say that it reduces washing time down

to 5 minutes. But I usually wash for 20+ minutes, suspecting those 5

minutes are just marketing talk... It seams to me that the film is

ok with this washing time (older films do not have fixer spots...)

Does anyone use this accessory with the 5 minute recomended time?

How can I tell if the film is perfectly washed rigth after washing?

Thanks in advance,

-Rui Cardoso

Thanks all!

I did some tests in auto-exposure and the shutter speed realy goes to 8"!... We just have to be carefull in order not to underexpose photos when going down to 8".

-Rui

Hi all,

I just bougth a brand new FM3A Black. It's an amaizing piece of

equipment, but i just have one doubt about it: The spec sheet says

that the shutter speed range for this camera is 8" to 1/4000", but

in the shutter speed ring I only find speeds from 1" to 1/4000".

This may seam ok because speeds of 1" to 8" should only be available

in auto-exposure mode, but I can't find them either the shutter

speed scale inside the view finder.

I checked the manual and can not find reference to this issue.

Does anyone have an ideia on how does this work?

Thanks in advance,

-Rui