richard_de_garis

Does anyone have any experience using the Panasonic DMC FZ-10 camera

with a canon 550EX flash? I realise that if it is electrically

compatible it will likely operate in a manual capacity only - that's

okay. I just happen to have this flash, I'm planning on buying the

Panasonic and I'm hoping I don't have to buy another external flash as

well.

I've read a lot of posts about under-rating Neopan 1600 - to anywhere

between 640 and 1250, according to opinion and experience - in order

to provide good shadow detail. Consequently, I have exposed a roll at

ISO 800. Now, I have never done any developing myself and have no

clue when I read posts that elude to the use of Rodinol, or

microthingy for 6 minutes. What I would like to understand a bit

better is some simple (even if it's a bit broad) rule of thumb for

instructing a pro lab in developing this film. I would also like the

understanding to include an idea about the relationship between

exposure rating and developing rating in terms of contrast, grain,

anything else you can think of that would be of help. I understand

I'll probably need to experiment somewhat, but a few pointers and

suggestions would be very much appreciated.

I have both these lenses and with the pictures I take (Landscapes, portraits, still life) I cannot tell the difference - even after scanning the slides into Picture Window Pro and analysing the detail.

The reason I got the 135f/2L was for candid portraits, auto-focussing in low/dim light.

In your situation I would recommend the 70-200 f/4L - truly excellent optics, light-weight, with the flexibility of a zoom, and cheaper than the 135

Hello all,

I've looked through the archives for the answer to this and have come

across some opinions. However, I would like to better understand the

following:

1) It would appear that NPH is better rated below ISO400, but it is

not clear whether the rating would vary under different lighting

conditions, or whether a constant rating of, say ISO250 is preferred.

2) I suspect if I ask 'what ISO rating?' I'll get lots of different

opinions backed up by sound experience, but I'd like to ask anyway -

reduce NPH ISO by 1/3, 1/2, or 1 stop?

3) To clarify, if I derate NPH, do I get the film processed at its

normal ISO400 rating - and is there any other advice I need to give

the (pro) lab?

4) By derating NPH I take it I need to be careful about applying any

extra exposure compensation? For example, with available light

portraits I would either use an incident meter, or spot meter off the

(caucasian)skin tone rather than meter off any shaddowed areas to try

and bring those out (since the derating should take care of this)?

Many thanks for your consideration in this matter.

Richard de Garis