edward_burlew

The 40 mm is excellent and you get to compose on the ground glass and get to preview the depth of field. The 38mm is better optically but that difference is minimal, I like the 38 as a snap shot camera for street photography, zone focus and enormous depth of field. I recommend you get the 40mm and then later get the 38mm. The 40 can be used with extention tubes for great close ups too.

I was just in my local pro shop and they had all kinds of colored

cloth tape in 2" wide sizes. Red Yellow Blue Green , just like the

hasselblad colors. So Igot to thinking....

Then I got to buying......

So I now aam th proud owner of a RED 500c. It cost me about $5.00

plus tax and a couple of beer to re-"classify" my 30 year old

Hasselblad. Just like the new ones.

I use this as the primary cap for my b50 lenses and I have on occassion taken pictures through it. TO stop me from making the mistake I put a big peice of green book binding tape on the clear front. I can always remove the tape.

The forte 200 is an excellent film. I rate it at 100 in 8x10 and develope it in Xtol like tri-x. Highlih=ghts hold extreemly well. the 400 is ttoally different. Very coarse grain and the tones are not good.

Go to Artic Light. Mr. John Dunn has spent years trecking in the artic, Baffin Isle and Ellesmere. He used an arca swiss modified or a 6x12 roll film back.

 

I have a friend who also does artic work and he is adamant the youleave the cameras outside day and night to prevent condensation build up.

 

Definitely you have to delube the shutters, you can use kerosene as an alternative.

 

Take a roll film back as well so you can set the camera at a hyperfocal distance and do some point and shoot work as well as off the ground glass. There will be some days when going throught the orderal of the film holder the focusing and the focusing cloth will be too much and you will still want to get images.

My two cents.

 

Win the lottery and then you can do the photography you enjoy.

 

There is no shrinking maket. There is more and more use of visual images every day the demand fo images is phenominal!!! Every cell phone will soon take and send a visual image.

 

Scarry Huh?

 

Just think, You and I with the porgear are being replaced by AMATEURS!!!!!!

 

So we have to get smart?

The evolving questionis how???

Do not confuse boring with peaceful

I have just looked at a 500MM CF APO and the lense rotates beyond the

infinity mark by a couple, maybe five degrees, Is that normal. I have

a 500mm C T* that does not. I checked the close focus and it goes to

the short limit. I know that the 250mm Superachromat goes beyond

infinity. Is this normal or does the lense need service???

The point of Hasselblad is to go hand held. The mirror lock up allows slow speed and you can shoot it like a Leica. I hand hold at 1/60th by using mirror laock up. In fact even when I need to use a 500th I will compose, hit the mirror lockup and then trip the shutter. That is very sharp, With this method I have even shot a 500mm lense with a mutar 2x and project the slide 7' square in a livingroom.

 

I regularly do a 150mm lense with 16mm tube adn ct45 flash hand held and then enlarge the portia 160asa to a 20x24. I shoot that at 1/125th.

 

no fancy devices just use of the mirror lockup.

 

A tripod gives better results but the results I get as described are still excellent.

 

Try 400UC it is excellent!!!!!!

The 155 Grandagon if an awesome lense.

I have the C, CT* and CF lenses , and a 60CB. The colour on the CF is better thatn the C. there is more intensity. the sharpness is the same. The hoopla on the CFI being better thatn the CF is just that. Unless youare shooting into a light source these is no difference. I recommend th CF lenses if you are doing color, for balck and white any lense is excellent.

Well of course it is ridiculous, so get a speed graphic or other hand hold camera.

 

Better yet try taking photos of airports in the usa with a telephoto lense when in plain site or take some of the lovely border bridges between canada and usa and you will also meet uniformed people.

I am goint to be in San Fran in a couple of weeks and I will need to

buy kodak 110 vs and have it processed before I leave and then have

it shipped back so I avoid the x-ray mess at airport security. Who

does the best E-6 so I can set this up. A telephone number for the

lab will be a help

I am glad to see an manufacturer who is luking and responding at the proper moment. I have just ordered several boxes of 60x60 Gepe from Vistek in Toronto, both glass less and anti newton. The wess were twice the price, I was told delivery was so unreliable that the product could take from one week to six weeks.

 

I am a projection devotee and when my friends see the 7'x7' images they are just awe struck and they can never look at their new 42" plasma tv's the same afterward.

I shoot hasselbald , In the kodak 160 stuff I regularly enlarge to 20x24 and do not notice grain. I think the 400UC will do the same. I project velvia and ekta 100vs 7'x7' in my living room.

The Mutar 2x is superb. I have this and the vititar 2x as well. The mutar is definitely better. The 180mm is balanced for the 2x mutar. The 120 lense work very well with the 2x in close ups. I have been doin portraits withthe 120 and 2x mutar. Phenominal!!!!! The 150 is nice and sharp but the 180 is a better step from the 120. The 150 wil need a 16mm extention to do head shots. The vivitar 2x is good, I used mine for 15 years before I got a 2x Mutar. I am very critical now because I project with a PCP80 and 75mm lense so I have 7'x7' images in my living room. With the velvia or ektachrome 100vs the sharpness and colours are breathtaking. I have had hasselbald for 35 years.

Thanks for the info but I am really looking for a North American source or a private source , Like someone who has a box full of cardboard mounts or plastic mounts with or without glass. I know I can order plastic new gepe from alot of retail outlets but I want the surplus or stuff that is just sitting there and you don't know what to do with it. I f I want to go overseas I can just order off the gepe store direct. In other words I want a deal.

I am looking to obtain 6x6 image size slide mounts to fit a medium

format projector , size 7x7 outside. I am looking for the paper

mounts, I have the heat press for those or for new or used plastic

mounts with or without glass.

 

Edward Burlew

the correct e-mail is: edward12@on.aibn.com

Everything goes down in price. So if you wait 20 more years then it willbe even chaeper. Just buy it use it and have fun. I hope you don't worry about loosing money on the test shots and the shots that are not just right , or the gas in the car to get to the beautify places or >>>>>>>>.Photography is like boating. A hole in the water into which an owner throws money.

This is a method I worked out 15 years ago. I use a metz or nikon sb11 flash with remote sensor on the lense hood. I posotion the flash about 2' above the lense on a bracket. I made an aluminum bracket that attatched to the left hand grip. so the flas head was atr an angle, but the real coupe de gras was to fit a small chimera soft box on the flas, I used one with the silver interior and about 12" square. This is cumbrsome but the results are fabulous!!!! I did not have ttl flash but kept the distances under 15 feet. I sue it regularly with the 50mm lense. It gives about the same light as in the studio withthe Mola on the brauncolor.

That's the point I was making in a humourous way. But still, the ULF experience can be a wonderful group project andI enjoy street photography with mine in small towns where the 8x10 always drwas a crowd.

Put the lense on the camera and the the shot!!!!!! Then if you find that there is a little bit of wasted film, remember the phrase "Forget about it" and imagine you are in Newark!!!!

 

I found it cheaper to do the occasional 5x7 picture on a sheet of 8x10 film than to search out the back, holders and 5x7 film.

If you are concerned about wiehgt then what the $%%$@$%%(* are you doing in 8x10 world????????

 

There are no ready loads, The lenses are heavy, if you go for the light weight stuff you are really only saving a marginal amount of weight.

 

If you are concerned about weight then I take it you don not mind the coumdersome size. The full sail bellows.

 

Rather than spend the very high dollars it takes for a Phillips or getting an old magnesium Eastman, then the two piece film holders , you are better off spending the money on friends and helpers. For instance you carry the camera, another friend/helper carries the lenses and another carries the tripod. The most important freind/helper is he or she who carries the food and wine to enjoy as you set up the shot and enjoy the beauty of the sceenery.

 

Photography with an 8x10 has traditionally been a team effort and there is enought interst in the prosess to put together an entourage, a gang or a possee. Thsi significantlly increases the pleasures of the medium.

 

ULF photography is like sailing, you need a damn fine crew to enjoy the day.

I am setting up a four projector show with Hasselbald PCP80's. I have

several options on the controls and I want to be able to use Power

Point control from my computer and a 12 pin hook up to the

projectors. I know this is ambitious, Has any one personal experience

or can you put me in contact with a person who has done something

similar in a 2 or 3 or 4 projector controller system.

 

My new email is edward12@on.aibn.com

I am in the market for the 90mm. I have a 3.5 150. I want to upgrade. If you are interested in selling the 90mm email me. edward12@on.aibn.com I am in Toronto Ontario Canada. I am not tring to fob the 150 off on you I am content to keep it for occasional use in larger rooms. I want the larger image of the 90 for my living room.