echang24

I had the same problem with an old tank like yours. I have both Omega and Nikkor tanks. I went to a local photo store (Calumet Photo - national chain) and bought a plastic lid that works with both brands.

The lids are nice and snug - no leaks and fairly cheap.

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CP90791/

Eric

I developed my first batch of color negative film. When hanging the film to

dry after the stabilizer step (I used the C-41 Tetenal Process), I noticed that

there were potentially going to be a lot of water spots.

I ended up using PhotoFlo (although I see from other photo.net forums that this

is not good for color negative film).

Is there an equivalent product/chemical for color negative film?

Thanks in advance,

Eric

I develop my own B/W film and am interested in developing color film now that I

was given a Jobo TBE2.

The only color film (negative) chemicals I can find locally are from Kodak and

the Tetenal C-41 kit.

Question 1:

I know this is a jaded question but are there huge differences from the two

brands?

Question 2:

What are the average costs per roll from doing this at home? My local labs

charge around $7-10 dollars a roll. I paid around $20 USD for the Tetenal kit

which yields 8 rolls of 35mm or 120.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

Thank you Ronald and Doug.

I have the lens hood on wrong.

I feel like an idiot.

Eric

Ronald -

Can you look at this one? I am seeing the same issue on both sides. I think the original photo I reference is already dark on the right hand side of the image.

http://www.photo.net/photo/6073694

Thanks for your quick response,

Eric

I was wondering if anyone on this thread has seen this problem.

I have a Leica M6 TTL and recently purchased a Voigtlander 12mm Heliar lens.

I took a test roll today to check out my new lens.

With the lens hood attached, I see dark edges on the negatives. The lens

appears to be so wide that it catches the lens hood!

(http://www.photo.net/photo/6073656)

Without the lens hood, everything looks normal.

(http://www.photo.net/photo/6073664).

I like the lens hoods especially since the lens cap attaches to it and not the

lens itself (http://www.photo.net/photo/6073666).

Has anyone ever seen this before? Any workarounds?

Thanks in advance,

Eric

Does anyone need any Hasselblad Cut Film adapters? I originally bought a bunch

of Hasselblad equipment that included a bunch of accessories that I am probably

never going to use.

The cut film adapters are in good shape and I would be willing to sell them for

real cheap - I just want to find them a good home where someone will actually

use them.

The camera I bought was a 500C but these adapters are likely to fit most 500

series Hasselblads.

The adapters have part number TIHLC.

Please contact me if interested.

Eric

I really like Kodak XTol with Neopan 1600 (EI=1600).

I use it diluted 1:1, 68F, and 7-8 minutes.

Eric

I am about to develop a roll of Bergger 200 35mm roll film and want to know

what development times and temperatures for Xtol (with dilution) are suggested?

I have tried Massive Dev Chart on www.digitaltruth.com but there is no

recommended time for this combo.

Thanks,

Eric

Based on this thread, I have started with this procedure for washing:

1. Fix (4 minutes)

2. Distilled water and invert 10 times

3. Distilled water and invert 20 times

4. Distilled water and invert 40 times

5. PermaWash (1 minute)

6. Distilled water and invert 10 times

7. Distilled water and invert 20 times

8. Distilled water and invert 40 times

There is neither white residue nor white speckles on my negatives. They are coming out very clean now.

Thanks to everyone's suggestions.

Eric

Teresa -

Here is a link to Ilford's Rapid Fixer fact sheet.

Read the section about washing film on page 2.

http://web.mit.edu/vogt/Public/Photography/datasheets/Ilford/Chemicals/Rapid_fixer.pdf

Eric

I have looked around for discussions around the differences between C and CF

lens but not much is surrounding the actual quality of image.

I bought a Hasselblad 500C set off of eBay with a bunch of B50 filters and

accessories with no lens. From the research I have done, these would fit a C

lens and not a CF.

Before I go out and just buy a lens though, I was wondering what the experts on

this forum think about the image quality from both lenses.

I have read about the physical differences but want more info about the lens

quality.

Are they about the same assuming the condition of the lenses are equal?

Thanks in advance,

Eric

I use Photo-Flo and am careful to dilute it properly.

My issue was the wash water - switching to distilled water has fixed my problem.

BTW, do the brown spots form right away or over time?

Eric

I have had some white speckle problems recently with my film developing. I

went with 100% distilled water and the problems have disappeared.

I have been using Ilford's Rapid Fixer and I have been doing the fix rinsing

with the "save water" Ilford method (fill, invert 5, fill, invert 10, fill,

invert 20) method.

My negatives look fine but I was just curious what they might look like if the

fixer is not properly rinsed.

Thanks,

Eric

I have been experiementing with Tri-X 400 (EI=1600). I have been reading about

Diafine and have just purchased some.

This developer is not very well documented and what data I have found is the

part A/part B (3min+3min) development times. I have also read that some use

only part A for longer periods of time.

I am shooting for medium thick negatives and wanted to know what other

development times and techniques work well with Diafine.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

I have recently shot multiple rolls of T-MAX and Delta 3200 films. All rolls

shot at EI 1600.

I developed the T-MAX in T-MAX developer and Delta in Ilford DD-X.

All negatives came out quite thick and easy to print.

I know this is a subjective question but I noticed that the T-MAX 3200 has

considerably more film grain that the Delta 3200 using the described

development process.

I actually like the film grain but wondered what other people have also seen.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

I have searched through the photo.net archives but did not find the exact

solution to my problem.

I have recently begun developing my own BW film (Ilford and some Kodak).

Everything is going well but have a film curl issue. I use film clips on both

ends when drying. I dry for about an hour and a half, cut, and then sleeve the

negatives. The negative curl makes it difficult to load into my negative slide

carrier for my scanner. The place film under books is not working that well

either.

Am I not drying the film long enough? Does a mild heat source help or hurt the

curl? Any suggestions are welcome!

Thanks in advance,

Eric

To remove the water splotches, you may want to try PhotoFlo. I have just started developing my own film and have used PhotoFlo for each roll and have never had the water marks you are talking about.

Eric

Dan -

I like your prints. May I ask what grade of contrast filters you used to print your pictures?

Thanks,

Eric

I am a newbie to developing my own black and white film so pardon the "stupid

questions."

I shot a roll of Neopan 1600 (EI at 1600) and developed it in DD-X (68F, 5

minutes (which is what Ilford recommends).

The negatives I have are fairly thin and I needed to use 4 or 4.5 contrast

filters to get the prints I wanted out of them.

I used to have my 3200 speed film (Delta 3200) developed by a lab with similar

results.

My questions are:

1. What are recommended soups for Neopan 1600 for minimal grain and good

contrast ouput?

2. I want to increase the development times but don't know exactly where to

start. Any recommendations?

3. What temperature do you recommend developing Neopan 1600 in?

4. Is it common to get thinner negatives when developing pushed film? Is is

normal to use contrast filters 4 through 5 in these cases?

Thanks in advance,

Eric