rrroger

<p>I have an AF-S 70-200 VR and AF-S 80-200<br>

The 80-200 is much better when shooting into the Sun and does not vignette at all,<br>

same with the new 70-200 VRII.<br>

However the vignetting is slight<br>

and the effect does not bother me at all when I shoot with my D800.<br>

I prefer the 70-200 VRI because of the handling.</p>

<p>Simple, get the D800 from a "no quibble" 30 day return vendor.<br>

This what I will do, then either return the D800 and get the D4 or keep the D800 and get a used D3s or another D800.</p>

<p>Some of the submerged Thailand Plant Production was temporarily shifted to Japan.<br>

So you may actually find a D7000 with "made in Japan" on it.</p>

<p>I was wondering how the "better build" of the D7000 might hold up.<br>

I've dropped my D5100 twice now to the pavement.<br>

Both times the lighter plastic body just bounced.<br>

There seems to be no damage whatsoever, not even a mark.</p>

<p>Evidently Nikon has already cleaned up the facility and is moving in equipment.<br>

I heard that they plan to be at full production sometime in January.<br>

The Park, insurance and/or Thailand government must have made up all or a major part of their losses.</p>

<p>D5100 is best choice for high ISO of cameras listed.<br>

The camera is more than capable of taking horse pictures even in a barn.<br>

The problem is the lens. You need AF-S with f/2.8.<br>

We use a 70-200 and 80-200 for indoor Equestrian Events.<br>

I use a Nikkor 28-300 for outdoors.<br>

A kit lens in the right range may work for you outdoors.</p>

<p>I have an unused Nikon 85mm f/1.8D AF for sale.<br>

I would get the AF-S Nikkor 80-200 or 28-300 if I were you.<br>

The 28-300 is very sharp at the 28mm end and fill the gap from your 10-24.<br>

For low light and Video I prefer the 35mm f/1.8 or AF-S Nikkor 28-70.</p>

<p>It is called a D5100<br>

D7000 Sensor and articulating screen</p>

<p>It is also cheaper, smaller, and lighter which is great for hikes.<br>

And it shoots HD1080 Video at 30fps.</p>

<p>I use my 28-300 for (Action) Event photography and for travel.<br>

It is very sharp even wide open at 28mm.</p>

<p>I did a bigger jump. D3 to D7000<br>

The main reason was the size and weight were killing my hands and wrist.<br>

When I was younger and took more pictures this was not a problem, now I am 67.<br>

The ISO is almost as good.<br>

The D7000 is not as fast focusing or shooting but nearly so.<br>

I use mine mostly for Motorcycle, Equestrian, and Running Events.<br>

I also have a D5100 that I use for Travel, Hikes, and Video.<br>

Some images are better and after months of practice the keeper rate is almost as good.<br>

I sold one used D3 and paid for two new D7000 bodies.<br>

You can use a lot lighter and cheaper lens or the big Pro Glass.<br>

I carry a 35mm f/1.8, 10-24 DX, 28-300 FX lens.<br>

The 14-24, 17-35, 28-70, 70-200, & 80-400 usually stay at home.</p>

<p>I do not know what settings you guys/gals are using, but I have never found the Nikkor 80-400 to be too slow.<br>

It is faster on my D3 than the AF-S 80-200 was on my D2Xs.<br>

And as should be expected at f/5.6 just about half as fast (1/2 of an instant) as a 70-200 at f/2.8 on the D3<br>

And we use it in an unlit barn so dark that no one else has been able to get any good pictures with any camera-lens combination except my D90 Auto ISO 3200 with 70-200 lense.<br>

Try using your AF-ON button and also prefocus, with any lense, on the spot you are going to take the picture.</p>

<p>And I found a teleconverter that will not only AF but VR in low light.<br>

N-AF 1.5X TELEPLUS MC DG KENKO. This is not the SHQ and has eight contacts.<br>

There is some degradation at 400mm, but not much in good light or with a flash.</p><div></div>

<p>I heard that Sony was working on a 40mp Sensor. Could that be the A1000?</p>

<p>Go for it. This lense should only go up in value. Hopefully it comes with Nikkor hood. You can practically shoot into the sun with that on and it does not have the ghosting, flaring, vignetting or other issues of the 70-200</p>

<p>Last year I sent in one of my 70-200s for cleaning and adjustment. I had it insured but the shipper dropped the box and broke the front element. Because I was sending it to a repair facility they claimed it was already broken. Nikon charged me the full price which still came out to total less than $500.</p>

<p>If you choose to ship USPS, they will supply a 12" square Priority Mail box and postage for around $5 + a couple bucks for a signed receipt if you want one. I no longer bother with insurance for any carrier.<br>

Wrap the lense in bubble wrap and fill the box with styrafoam balls.</p>

<p>I too sold my 80-200 AF-D to upgrade to the 80-200 AFS. It is so much better that $500 ( even if it needs $400 repair) is a bargain I would not pass up now that I am shooting full frame. I think it is a better lense than the 70-200 for a D3 or D700.<br>

I was persuaded at the time that a wider range, VR, and better sealing were a good reason to "upgrade", but that lense has known issues and is only equal in sharpness and speed.<br>

I recommend you send it to Melville were it will almost surely come back working as good as new. They have done great work on my lenses. Be sure to externally clean it well first. I use 91+% Isopropyl Alcohol.</p>