Ed_Ingold

<p>I believe the A6000 uses a Sony NEX mount. I'm partial to Novoflex adapters. They're not cheap, but they fit without jamming, and work with G lenses. There's a ring which sets the diaphram via the coupling lever. It's not calibrated in f/stops, but you could set it closed and use the aperture ring on non-G lenses. I will be shopping for an adapter if/when I get a Sony Alpha, and this is the one I would choose.</p> <p>There are less expensive choices with a setting ring too. Do you trust a $1500 lens on a $20 adapter? As a word of caution, others have found that inexpensive adapters can be hard to attach or remove from the lens. I believe the protocol is attach lens to adapter then assembly to camera.</p> <p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/737925-REG/Novoflex_NEX_NIK_Adapter_for_Nikon_Lens.html</p>

<p>If you use perspective correction tools in Photoshop, the aspect ratio of buildings is preserved if you stretch the top and shrink the bottom equally. It emulates the use of a rising front camera quite well, except you lose a lot of the frame through cropping. When shooting, make sure the center of the plane to be corrected is vertical, so all convergence is symmetrical about the center.</p> <p>You can also obtain the correct vertical perspective if you keep the film plan vertical, use a lens wide enough to to cover the subject, and crop unwanted areas. Or you could rent a view camera. The cost is usually rather low, compared to MF or digital gear anyway.</p> <p>A book, "The Camera," by Ansel Adams is a good place to learn about use of a view camera.</p>

<p>Nice portrait. It almost looks like a Softar filter was used - sharp where it counts, smooth where it doesn't. A Sonnar on an Hasselblad behaves much differently.</p>

<p>A problem with the aperture sticking is reparable by a simple CLA, for about $100 (e.g., Authorized Nikon Repair in Morton Grove, IL). Sticking will cause sporadic overexposures not explained by other potential causes. It is common in lenses older than about 10 years, before newer, non-migrating lubricants came in common use.</p>

<p>In single-servo mode, you can focus manually only after the autofocus locks in (i.e., stops hunting). Autofocus is initiated by a half-press of the shutter release or a separate (e.g., AF) button. Many cameras have options for that sequence (e.g., AF button only).</p> <p>You may be able to focus manually in continuous-servo mode, if activation is continuous and moving the manual focus ring overrides and disables the AF function.</p>

<p>The "look", sans the "sharp" part.</p>

<p>"Medium format" and "affordable" are mutually exclusive terms. The equipment costs twice that of comparable small format gear. Medium format SLRs come a la carte - body, finder, back(s) and lenses are all sold separately. Even if you find something in your price range, film plus processing approaches $20/roll. Digital is an option, even as later upgrade, but hardly "affordable".</p> <p>If you want 16"x20" prints (or larger) with no discernible grain, it may be worth the expense. If you want to be seen with a camera described as "old fashioned", it is an expensive toy. Big cameras shake too, so you need a sturdy tripod to get sharp image for those big prints.</p> <p>Been there, done that. Welcome to the club.</p>

<p>Dust is a constant issue with an MF digital back, however it is easy to see and clean. The sensor is flusch with the surface of the back, and any soft brush will work. I've never had to touch a wet swab to it in eight years. Secondly, dust particles are relatively small relative to the image area. The cavernous interior and huge mirror fanning the air seems to generate dust. On the other hand, you can blow out the interior with the sensor removed. That and keeping the lenses dust free keeps dust to a minimum.</p> <p>Somewhere on the web I saw a Leica M3 converted to digital, using parts scavanged from a Sony Alpha. The sensor fit in place of the rear door, but the electronics were external. It might work if nobody tripped on the wires.</p>