steve coburn

About your battery problem. Try uninstalling PSE and see if you go back to the fan running only 15% of the time and an hour's charge on the battery. If performance stays poor try disabling the power alarms (Screen saver, Power options, alarms) so that the machine does not switch off at low power percentages. Then see how long the battery really lasts until the laptop switches off. Some times the battery reports the wrong charge level to the PC and may need reconditioned (3 x full charge, full discharge cycle).

That's right. I was just being lazy earlier :-)

One thing, you'll need a cf card to update the firmware. It can not be done with a microdrive.

rXX on the LCD normally indicates how many exposures the buffer can currently hold. I'm not sure why you're getting this problem but try the camera on a different quality setting to see if you still get r10 or if the message changes.

A tiny but useful program is rota, it can be downloaded from <a href=http://www.snapfiles.com/get/rota.html> snapfiles </a>. It performs batch lossless jpeg rotation and is remarkably easy to use. Many low level commercial programs only perform lossy rotation eventually resulting in image deterioration.</br></br>Another vote for the 1GB Sandisk Ultra II. With the D70 quality set to <i>normal</i> using Ultra II it is possible to shoot continuously until the card is full without having to wait for the buffer to clear. My microdrive shows a noticable stuttering so given the choice don't buy a microdrive. Microdrives also can not be used for firmware updates.</br></br>We don't have WalMart here in the UK so I can't comment on the quality of the prints they produce. However can you copy the images on to CD and post it to an alternative company if they can obtain better results?<br><br>Have fun when your camera arrives.

Try a bean bag under the lens.

All a user has to do (on a PC) is press PrtSc /Print Screen and then paste the contents of the clip board into Word. You can get reasonable print from this up to A4 (although not really photo quality) as Word is kind enough to allow you to crop and resize the images as required.

 

As said before you're better offering small 800x600 images at a fairly low resolution as well as putting on a copyright notice. Hopefully the photo processors will refuse to print images with a copyright mark clearly displayed (most here in the UK do refuse).

This <a href=http://www.iso.org/iso/en/CatalogueDetailPage.CatalogueDetail?CSNUMBER=4580&ICS1=37&ICS2=40&ICS3=10&scopelist=> link </a> is to the ISO document for camera accessory shoes. However you have to pay 34 Swiss Francs before you can download the papers.

From the EXIF data on the image you shot the picture in Shutter Priority mode at 1/30th of a second at 36mm (54 mm at 35mm equiv.) and f4.2. Could some of the edge softness be due to camera shake / subject moving? Maybe you should try taking a shot in better light so you can achieve a shutter speed of around 1/200th of a second and an aperture of f8 using aperture priority mode and then check the edges. This may also help with the exposure problem. Remember the lens has a lot of effect on sharpness as well. My 105mm prime blows my 70-200mm zoom lense away everty time.

 

You also have to remember that D-SLRs require more work to get a good image from them compared to a SLR type camera such as your Fuji. I use to own a Fuji S602Z and I personally believe that Fuji cameras are very hard to beat in that market sector however the D70 has the potential to create technically better images. The Fuji is known to over sharpen images in-camera so you are bound to notice a difference from what you are used to.

 

If you can let me know what magnification you enlarged the image to before cropping I'll try and post one of my images enlarged and cropped to the same size for you to compare your images with.

This <a href=http://www.plxinc.com/pages/hollow-penta-mirrors.php> link </a> is for a manufacturer of penta-mirrors. It gives a liitle bit of technical info.

Try <a href=http://stores.ebay.co.uk/UK-MEMORY-SUPPLIER_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm> this gentleman </a>. He currently has 2GB Kingston for around £75 plus £7 postage. He is based in the States and I've used him twice, the cards arrive within a few days and I have not been hit by custom duties either time. Take a look.</br>Steve C

According to the <a ref=http://europa.eu.int/comm/taxation_customs/dds/cgi-bin/tarchap?Lang=EN > TARIC web site </a>I believe you would need this TARIC code 9002110090 or 9002110050 which carries an import duty of 6.7% and then 17.5% VAT on top. This is on the entire price, including the shipping charge. I believe that you don't pay the duty if it comes to less than £7, and you only have to pay the VAT if the total value is less than £18. <a href=http://www.hmce.gov.uk/channelsPortalWebApp/channelsPortalWebApp.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=pageTravel_ShowContent&propertyType=document&resetCT=true&id=HMCE_CL_001454> (HMCE website) </a>

I'm not sure about your budget, but what about the Minolta 7D with anti-shake. A friend has one with a Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 Macro zoom lens and has taken some very nice shots which he would have missed without the anti-shake function.

I've tried to replicate your problem with my D70 but can't do it. I think that you have a broken flash. When I set my camera in commander mode I get a flash burst in TTL, AA and M modes.

The D70 has no sync socket so your wife will need to get a hotshoe PC adaptor (AS-15). I have heard that there is a problem using the built-in flash to fire off studio flashes due to a pre-flash being emitted from the camera before the main flash. This triggers the studio flashes before the shutter is released. I've always used my AS-15 so I can not vouch for the accuracy of this but someone may be able to confirm it one way or the other for you. If I get time later I'll try it out for you.

Under what circmstances would you use a ball head and a three way pan

and tilt head? Ball heads seem a lot more flexible so are there

specific shooting scenarios where a three way head would be more

practical?

 

Thanks

If possible, I'd shoot every thing in RAW.

 

For the family snaps just set up an action in Photoshop to import the images, resize them to 6x4, and then save as a high quality JPEG for sending to the lab for printing (assuming that PS can read your RAW format).

It is all explained on the Nikon Support Website.

 

But basically 100NCD70 stored the first 999 images you shot, 101NCD70 contains the next 999 images and so on.

 

For your second point the following naming conventions are used:

 

DSC_ is used for JPG and NEF files

 

_DSC is when using Optimize image> color mode > mode II (Adobe 1998).

 

Steve C

I'm just curious. If a blogger (for example) posts a direct link to a photo on another site is that piracy or not? They haven't copied the image but just added visibility to that image, is this still image theft because nothing has been taken?

 

Concerning invisible Digimarc type watermarks. Do these help if individuals print out the image using XP's photo printing wizard or any other 'low-end' graphics package which the vast majority of web users are likely to be using?

 

Thanks

When the flash is up press the flash button until the LCD says off in the flash section.

USB sockets basically have 2 speeds. USB 1(.1) is very slow and USB 2.0 is a lot faster. For maximum transfer rates you would use a USB 2 card reader in a USB 2 socket. If your PC does not support USB 2 then you do not gain any speed advantages using a USB 2 card reader.

 

CF I and CF II refers to the size of the card. CF II is approximately twice as fat as CF I, It has nothing to do with the USB ports.

 

You don't need to buy an expensive card reader. My USB 2 6-in-1 reader cost aound GBP 4 and works fine.

USB sockets basically have 2 speeds. USB 1(.1) is very slow and USB 2.0 is a lot faster. For maximum transfer rates you would use a USB 2 card reader in a USB 2 socket. If your PC does not support USB 2 then you do gain any speed advantages using a USB 2 card reader.

 

CF I and CF II refers to the size of the card. CF II is approximately twice as fat as CF I, It has nothing to do with the USB ports.

 

You don't need to buy an expensive card reader. My USB 2 6-in-1 reader cost aound GBP 4 and works fine.

Take a look at www.dpreview.com at the reviews and then check a local website for prices of cameras you fancy. I think that most of the Fuji, Minolta and Canon cameras are worth reading about.

What about Adobe's DNG format?

No problem.

 

Steve C