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michaelwildi

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Posts posted by michaelwildi

    Bor-ring!

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Hi Martin<br>

    Check out <a href="http://www.lacloseriesaintmartin.fr">www.lacloseriesaintmartin.fr</a> . This is my friends bed&breakfast in the valley of Loire in Central France. I did all the pictures for them.<br>

    Click on "Zimmer" (i.e. rooms) and see how I did it. It's mostly 14mm lens (21 35mm equiv.), camera on tripod, no flash but long exporure like 6 seconds with f:8 and 100 iso/asa, all existing roomlights on. Voila, easy as pie.<br>

    Best regards, Michael</p>

    Diane Arbus Style

    in Street & Documentary

    Posted

    <p>Hello Everybody<br>

    The Museum of Photography in Winterthur (a town north of Zurich, Switzerland) , <a href="http://www.fotomuseum.ch" target="_blank">http://www.fotomuseum.ch</a> . is presenting a show with about 200 photos of Diane Arbus. It's an amazing show. I went already twice there and I bought two books about Diane's life and her work<br>

    Then I remembered a shooting day in Lucerne, Switzerland, which I did back in 1999. I found seven photos in my archive which I will present here in the forum.<br>

    See <a href="http://www.photo.net/">http://www.photo.net/photos/michaelwildi</a><br>

    Well, they don't come close to Diane's work, but a bit close maybee? What do you think? I like them, btw.<br>

    Btw: the film I uses was a Polaroid 35mm transparency-rollfilm which unfortunately is not available anymore. I like the "Robert Frank"-grain of this material, and there is no need of real wet-/darkroom development. All you have to do is to put/tow the film through a small plastic housing thing made by Polaroid.<br>

    Critique is welcome.<br>

    Best regards,<br>

    Michael</p>

    Point and Shoot Camera Recommendations

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Ken<br>

    I'm a M6 shooter too. Often I take my Olympus Stylus (28mm lens) with me. It's a wonderful little camera and it's light and can take a heavy shower or watersplashes. I also have the Ricoh GRII but the digital version. I like it also and I think the analog GR1 is as good or even better then the digi-thing.<br>

    Best, Michael</p>

    Issue with M6TTL and SF 24D flash

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi Carl<br>

    I have the same problem with my old trusty M6TTL and the SF20 (not SF24D). I bought the camera and the flash in 2001. Everything worked fine the first years, but since two years or so, I have the same problem you mentioned. I let check the camera and the flash by the Swiss Leica Distributor but they did'n find out what is wrong with it. I'm helpless. Please let me know, if you get more information.<br>

    Thanks,<br>

    Michael</p>

    Issue with M6TTL and SF 24D flash

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi Carl<br>

    I have the same problem with my old trusty M6TTL and the SF20 (not SF24D). I bought the camera and the flash in 2001. Everything worked fine the first years, but since two years or so, I have the same problem you mentioned. I let check the camera and the flash by the Swiss Leica Distributor but they did'n find out what is wrong with it. I'm helpless. Please let me know, if you get more information.<br>

    Thanks,<br>

    Michael</p>

    Metering with M6 non-TTL

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi Rui<br>

    This is normal. In good light you measure the exposure on a surface of aprox 18% grey. This could be the concrete of the street, a roof of a house, the green grass or whatever. In bad light you better aim your camera at a white surface like a white wall or so and than open up the aperture or the shutter for about 4 stops.<br>

    Best, Michael</p>

    Metering with M6 non-TTL

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi Rui<br>

    This is normal. In good light you measure the exposure on a surface of aprox 18% grey. This could be the concrete of the street, a roof of a house, the green grass or whatever. In bad light you better aim your camera at a white surface lake a white wall or so and than open up the aperture or the shutter for about 4 stops. Best, Michael</p>

    Need a digital street camera...

    in Street & Documentary

    Posted

    Joe, I really recomand the Ricoh GRDII with an external viewfinder. I have mine set in snap-mode, f=5.6 and 400ASA. This way everything between 4 feet and infinity is sharp. Shooting jpgs this is a very fast little camera. I'm a Leica M6 photographer since a long time. But this little Ricoh-camera comes very close to the M6 in handling and feeling. Rent one for a test weekend if you can. Best Michael

    TTL-BL vs TTL

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    James, if you use your sb800 as the main light (e.g. the flash will be brithter than the ambient light) set it to TTL. This works with direct, bounce, flip-it, on- or offcamera flash etc. To prevent dark or black backgrounds, just open up the shutter speed. I use this setting for almost all indoor shots or night shots.

     

    If you use your sb800 as a fill light (e.g. the flash will be lighter than the ambient light) set it to TTL-BL. This works best with the flashhead in the regular 90 degrees forward postition. If you tilt or rotate the flashhead the (invisible) preflashes won't go of and the flashexposure could be off. I use this setting outside in sunny days and in backlight situations.

     

    Best,

     

    Michael

    How accurate is shutter speed?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Hi Alex

     

    Just test it like this:

     

    Find a brickstone-wall ore something similar on a overcast day or in the shadow. Put some 100 ASA slide film in your camera. Photograph the wall with 1/30" at f16, 1/60" at f11, 1/125" at f8, 1/250" at f5.6, 1/500" at f4 and 1/1000" at f2.8. Compare the slides on a lighttable. They should all be the same. If not, you can get it adjusted by a specialist, or compensate with f-setting.

     

    Best,

     

    Michael

    Frozen Slide Film

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    Until now I kept my slide films in a refrigator. Now the refrigator has to go

    and will be replaced by a large freezer (mostly for food). I believe I can

    store the films in this freezer too without any problems. But when do I have to

    take it out of the freezer before usage? Refrigated it only took like 2 hours

    in room temp. How long does it take with frozen film?

     

    Thanks for your help

     

    Best

     

    Michael

    Prensenting Results

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    A while ago I asked for advice on following problem:

     

     

    "Next week I gona do a portrait-series of the staff of a large lamp/light-shop.

    They sell all sorts of lamps; chandeliers, office- lamps, colourfull

    flourescent lamps, you name it.

     

    The idea is to portrait each staffmember like you would do it in a portrait-

    studio, but instaed to use photo-lights (flash, softboxes etc.) I want to use

    the lamps they sell as lighting sources and these lamps must be visible in the

    picture, so they are a part of it.

     

    The problem is: If I expose correctly for the lamps than the person will be too

    dark. If I expose correctly for the person than the lamps will be washed out.

    If I use additional light (Hensel Porty) than I can't see the lamps anymore,

    etc.

     

    Solution: Probably I have to work with the shops lamps only and with some

    reflectors to brighten up the person.

     

    Maybee you have some better ideas. I'm really thanksfull for every inspiration

    on this.

     

    BTW: I don't care about color tints. Some of the lamps have colored bulbs

    anyway and I want to maintain these colorshifts."

     

     

    You guys helped me with some very good advices how to mix flash and ambient

    light, but I stuck to the original idea eventually. Only the shop lamps had

    been used and some reflectors. And some photoshop. The attached PDF-File shows

    the endproduct. BTW, the customer was very pleased.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Michael

    Have a look

    in Street & Documentary

    Posted

    Hi David

     

    Have you been in Costa Manos workshop in Rockport? I've been there in 2003, and part of the workshop was to photograph at Bangor State Fair. Have a look at my website: www.michaelwildi.com. Check out the Personal Documentary stuff.

     

    BTW, I like your color pictures a lot.

     

    Best,

     

    Michael

    Help with Weird Portrait Light Situation

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Thanks a lot, Garry and Ellis and all others who helped me. Sometimes the solution for a problem is just around the corner.

     

    I do a lot of portraits on location. Usually there is disturbing light allover the place. So I learned to cut out these light sources by using high shutter speeds (250th) and thus let my Hensel flashlights be the only lightsources. I really forgot that one can use slow speeds too to include existing light ;)

     

    Thanks again and all the best,

     

    Michael

    Help with Weird Portrait Light Situation

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    Hello Friends

     

    Has anybody a solution for the following problem?

     

    Next week I gona do a portrait-series of the staff of a large

    lamp/light-shop. They sell all sorts of lamps; chandeliers, office-

    lamps, colourfull flourescent lamps, you name it.

     

    The idea is to portrait each staffmember like you would do it in a

    portrait-studio, but instaed to use photo-lights (flash, softboxes

    etc.) I want to use the lamps they sell as lighting sources and these

    lamps must be visible in the picture, so they are a part of it.

     

    The problem is: If I expose correctly for the lamps than the person

    will be too dark. If I expose correctly for the person than the lamps

    will be washed out. If I use additional light (Hensel Porty) than I

    can't see the lamps anymore, etc.

     

    Solution: Probably I have to work with the shops lamps only and with

    some reflectors to brighten up the person.

     

    Maybee you have some better ideas. I'm really thanksfull for every

    inspiration on this.

     

    BTW: I don't care about color tints. Some of the lamps have colored

    bulbs anyway and I want to maintain these colorshifts.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Michael

    Billingham 550/555

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    Rob

     

    I own three Billingham bags. A Hadley for my two M-Cameras with 4 lenses, small flash and some more stuff. A second Hadley for my books, portfolios etc., and a 335 for my Nikon SLR equipment.

     

    The 335 is a bit boxy, but perfect for the SLR stuff. For travelling I use the M-equipment only, so the Hadley is the perfect companion.

     

    Why don't you get a second Hadley? One for your equipment and one for your belongings? This way you can leave your two Unterhosen and toiletries in the hotel room, shank or whatever, and if you have to carry everything together, one bag left the other right or both on the same bodyside with different straplenghts shouldn'd be a problem.

     

    Best Michael

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