boris_krivoruk3
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Posts posted by boris_krivoruk3
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<p>Judging by the size, you are converting to 8-bit TIFF. If you convert to 16-bit, you will have ~125mb images. After you done with editing, convert final image to jpeg and send it to the lab for printing. Most of the labs do this anyway.</p>
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<p>I have had number of 35mm negatives and slides where edges were unsharp due to the film's curl. This is especially true if the image is first/last in the stripe of film. However, there are ways to keep it flat. One of them is to use wet scan. It works in many cases, but not in all. Sometimes curl is so strong that the weight of glass and liquid's surface tension are not enough to keep film stuck to the glass. In that case I use medium format glass holder. I cut a mask 24X36 and use it with the film. I scan and crop; however, Nikon Scan gives awful results, but Viewscan works well with cropping.</p>
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<p>I used 430EZ with XTI abd 5dII. Everything is is manual mode. I mesured flash with Seconic meter, Worked well. Eventrually I switched to 580EXII, it is better when you need speed.</p>
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<p>DPP fixes distortion, software comes with the camera. </p>
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<p>When I save RAW images in DPP as 16bit TIFFs they look different from RAW. Brightness, contrast are not the same. Also, if I print RAW image, it also looks like TIFF, not like RAW. I have to spend some time after saving to make images looking like RAW. I have latest version of DPP. Does anyone know the cure? </p>
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<p>I have had banding from the beginning when scanning 6X7 negatives that include sky. Fine mode prevents it. Besides banding I have seen more density along the edges. Scan masks remove this issue. Besides banding there is issue with negative flatness. I use glass carrier and when I scan 6x7, I created a mask for 35mm to be used with the glass carrier, however only Viewscan can produce good scan with 35mm and mask. With 6x7 Viewscan sometimes is quite bad and Nikonscan works better. With 35mm slides Viewscan is better. I've had scanner for little over 1 year and it has already been serviced. </p>
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<p>I still have 20-35/2.8 L. I recently compared it with 24-85, which is non-L. I used Rebel XTI for comparison. 24-85 is sharper. I don't use 20-35 anymore, and 17-40L is on my list.</p>
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<p>I live just outside Denver @ 6300 freet. No problem for color, no problem for B&W processing.</p>
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<p>I use Nikon scanning software. Suddenly this morning after scanner is initialized, I instertd film holder, started software and started getting message: "Please remove the film holder and press OK button on the screen to try again". I do that, Scanner goes thru its usual moises and displays the same message. I checked with troubleshooting manual, turned off scanner, computer, disconnected/reconnected scanner, nothing helps, the same message.<br>
Then started Viewscan and everything works. Anyone has similar experience/ideas?</p>
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<p>It actually goes beyond infinity with all M7 lenses. </p>
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<p>John, if all you need is 11X17, buy 17X22 and cut it in half.</p>
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<p>I've been to Hut's Mesa twice. Tom Phillpis is great. The only problem is that you cannot see mittens from the mesa. It is still probably the best view you will ever see.</p>
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<p>There was an excellent article in the last issue of Photo Techniques about back focusing. In the nutshell, autofocus systems sees at about f5.6. If you are significantly wider than that, you will see the effect of back focusing. If yoy stop down too much, than in addition to focus shift there will be diffraction. The only way so far to avoid this is to focus using live view.</p>
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<p>Stephen, my take is this: use whatever works. I used both Color Navigator and Display I1 software to calibrate, I have not noticed any differences in calibartion between them.</p>
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<p>I still use it with both film and digital. I see no reason to replace it.</p>
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<p>Tamron, Nikon, Hama</p>
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<p>I would be curious to know what Michale Reichmann meant by "died". Died permanently, or came back to life in warmer and direr conditions. I've been shooting XTI for two winters in Colorado, many times in snowstorms. It's not Antarctica, but fairly cold sometimes. So far the only thing that was dying was the battery. Personally, if I were to go to Antarctica, I would have brought two film cameras. After shooting in cold condtitions in Rockies, Andes and Nepal sometimes for weeks without being able to recharge the battery, it's just too risky to shoot digital only.</p>
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<p>I use it all the time.</p>
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Just keep in mind, what goes around comes arond.
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Picture Window Pro
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None of those will beat your C330 for landscapes.
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About flushing red ion the viewfiner: make sure you have fresh battery.
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Joyce, is the stiffness of the shutter the same at the beginning of a roll as at the end? If it's stiff only at the end of a roll, it could be the film is not loaded correctly and being wound loosely. Some cameras have certain preferences for intake spools being used.
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I used 430EZ on XTI. You will need to set both camera and flash to mannual. You will need to measure and set flash output manually as well.
Plustek OpticFilm 120
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted