brandon_ward

<p>I got my Mamiya 6 with the full assortment of lenses a month ago from Japan. My early impressions:</p>

<p>1. I can see that the film winder could be fragile, but IME it's always the problem you don't anticipate that bites you, not the one you think will happen. Consider all of the '6 owners that HAVEN'T posted problems to the Internet.</p>

<p>2. Plastic/rubber appears to have degraded ever so slightly over time - it's a little sticky, especially if my hands are the least bit sweaty. No biggie so far.</p>

<p>3. Images are NEEDLE-PRECISION-TACK SHARP. WOW. Looking at a tripod mounted RVP 100 chrome on my lightbox with a Schneider 4x loupe takes my breath away. I should also add, my Bronica ETR images (when tripod mounted) look fantastic, too. But there seems to be something "extra sharp" about the Mamiya - believe the hype.</p>

<p>4. I'm good with the bokeh, at least so far. Some have complained of it. Maybe I'm just bowled over by the tonality, creaminess and "medium format look", but I like the OOF areas and what have you. Quite pleasant.</p>

<p>5. Leaf shutter! You can squeeze a couple of extra stops out of your shutter speed and still get good results. I think I shot an available light portrait of a buddy at 1/15 with the 50mm lens and the in-focus areas are perfectly sharp, at least on the 4" reference print.</p>

<p>6. Leaf shutter! This camera is so quiet to operate, it puts a grin on your face, especially when you are trying to be quiet and hear the light "click" of the shutter. No mirror slap is nice.</p>

<p>7. Rangefinder limitations and pros/cons - they exist.</p>

<p>8. Not digital! For good and bad. Returning to film after 10 years (though not exclusively) has been an excellent challenge for me and reinvigorating. I shoot differently with my DSLR than with my Bronica ETR than with the Mamiya. And I love shooting all of them, but especially MF film.</p>

<p>9. Be prepared that you may only be able to shoot B&W through this one day, if she serves you loyally and stays functional. The lovely color emulsions seem to be dying off a few at a clip. Commit to hoard film (I need to spend my $200 on 120 film yet this month, note to self). </p>

<p>10. The 150mm is a bit tough for me to focus, as the RF overlap area is a bit hard to see, or else I just need more practice (probably both). It's the least used of the 3 lenses on my rig so far.</p>

<p>11. You're buying into a (most likely) fully depreciated, devalued, obsolete operating system (film) and can get fantastic deals - hence the risk outlined above. And, yeah, I love seeing images from a 5DMKIII or D800, and want to want to upgrade my digital rig, but...I enjoy film. No matter what anyone says, a DSLR WILL be obsolete quickly. If you buy new in this market, you get great image quality at the top end, but...you're pre-paying someone else's depreciation. </p>

<p>12. We have lots of options as photographers today. Don't overthink it. Maybe buy two Fujis, or buy a Mamiya 6/7. But buy one. You'll buy more. I'm in the process of getting my granddad's Ikoflex restored. Why not? We live once - if a camera helps you get off the couch and shooting, or just "fits" properly in your hand, that's what counts. The Mamiya 6 feels right in my hand, as does my ETR. And I'mg digging formats other than APS-C or 135, especially square - "refreshing" is the word that comes to mind when I look through the finder.<br>

Good luck with the decision and getting to know your new camera(s)!</p>

 

<p>This is a late response, but does the OP know how shallow DOF at f/2.8 on a 6x6 frame will be? I know the application is portraiture, but it's important to remember that DOF at 2.8 will appear to be REALLY REALLY shallow for someone if they are coming from 35mm or FX/DX formats. </p>

<p>Something to think about, as is the point about focusing ability and screen brightness. I don't own a 'blad but I do have a Bronica ETR and Mamiya 6 and the Bronica's screen is a bit dim - tough to focus and keep critical sharpness when handheld. If shooting 100 speed film handheld in diffuse shadows, your shutter speed will also be low, which can have an impact on apparent sharpness due to mirror slap or camera shake (I say this not from a pixel-peeping or dictionary basis, but from a "How does my print look?" basis).<br>

I guess my question is - what lighting will you be shooting portraits in where the max shutter speed is an issue? Bright sunlight + portraits is typically (typically) not a great combination. And, will the camera be handheld or tripod mounted? <br>

Regarding, DOF, the rule of thumb I've heard (and can vouch for) is that if you're coming from a smaller format, you typically will need two stops smaller aperture to get similar DOF. E.g., f/11 in medium format renders closer to f/5.6 in 35mm to the eye. Something to think about. </p>

<p>Ah, meandering posts. We love them just like photo.net. </p>

<p>OP - have you explored your new camera and lens? Can you contribute a follow-up to this thread? </p>

<p>I had that issue and removed the batteries, replaced them, changed lenses and then changed lenses back - and shutter fires. I'm hoping mine isn't an issue with the body, but rather with power. I just got this one used and the batteries came with the camera. </p>

<p>I see them going for $820 with a 75(?) 2.8 in the US on eBay. I'd look for less than that. I thought about a RF645 but went with a Mamiya 6 recently because I've heard of issues with parts availability for future service, given the short production run this great camera saw. </p>

<p>I just got a Mamiya 6 and second the notion that the meter/shutter actuation is distinct from one another, albeit the touch is significantly lighter than, say, with my old F3 or Bronica ETRS. It's possible that a bushing may have worn out from overuse, but that would probably imply a LOT of actuations. I would focus on a lighter/defter touch first before asking (and paying) Mamiya to fix it. </p>

<p>Quote: I just shake my head when a bride is willing to pay 800.00 for a photo booth but balks at paying a thousand for a basic photo coverage. It's always been that way in the wedding industry. The majority of brides will pay for the things that their guests will see. /Quote<br>

<br>

Then, sell the photo booth. As photographers, we need to stop trying to force 'our' vision and standards down the throats of those who don't / can't appreciate it. Learn to read a prospect/lead, ask questions about budget and expectations and MAKE IT EASY for the bride to enjoy her day with WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO HER. <br>

<br>

This, coming from the guy who's heavily discounted weddings for friends (with a 50% "satisfaction rate"; my cheapest wedding was the one that is most maligned to this day, so...lesson learned) and one who prefers to shoot film vs. digital b/c it is easier to get stuff wrong (personal decision; already in counseling, so don't try to change my mind, lol).<br>

<br>

In short - LISTEN TO THE MARKET. If the market wants photo booths vs. second shooters, DO IT. Offer a full package, make the buying experience EASY and LOW STRESS (what bride-to-be doesn't want THAT?). <br>

<br>

And --- don't rely on the traditional profit drivers to be there for you. If you can position a photo booth for a wedding, why not a homecoming dance, a bar mitzvah, a birthday, a prom, etc....? <br>

<br>

Be an imager...and not just a photographer...but most of all, OFFER SOLUTIONS.<br>

<br>

-- Advice from a dumb sales guy who works from home and makes money helping customers decide to do things that most would find very common-sense....</p>

<p>The big sites already do this for much, much less. (Think Brides.com and TheKnot.com). </p>

<p>What is unique to your offering? I can tell you that "buying" email addresses as leads has proven entirely ineffective in my own experience. And that's as part of a print ad campaign with a name publisher.</p>

<p>My first reaction (fwiw) when I read the post was "no way". You would have to clearly (CLEARLY) articulate the VALUE and DIFFERENTIATION your site offers.</p>

<p>Which, based on the description in the OP, was absent. Still, I would tread carefully. The wedding industry's huge, but access to email addresses is easy to come by.</p>

<p>What's a "quality" lead - one of the Glen Garry leads? Best lead (in my experience) are referrals. And they take the longest to build up. Cold-calling (even so-called "qualified" cold-calling) has a low, low success rate. Why would a wedding pro choose your service? If you can answer the question in terms of your prospect (not your perspective), AND deliver the product AND market it effectively, you might have a chance. </p>

<p>There's already critical mass on many sites / magazines / channels and that'll be really tough for you to overcome. Good luck answering these questions and overcoming the challenges.</p>

 

Eric,

 

The "What Camera to Buy?" section of photo.net would be a good place to start looking, as there is a lot of good info on point and shoot cameras there. If you browse through photo.net and photo.net/photo/nature/ you'll quickly realize that for most wildlife applications, a 145mm f/9.6 (or whatever) lens, Schneider glass or not, won't be enough for wildlife. Don't know about the Samsung's macro capabilities. For what it's worth, I just bought my sister an Olympus Stylus Epic to take overseas for landscapes and scenics for some of the reasons you mention, and some that you may not have thought of. Weatherproof (water-resistant), small/light, the f/2.8 lens gets you more "keepers" (all else held equal) in lower light, decent fill-flash, etc. Though I don't own one, any camera that weighs about 12oz (or whatever the Epic weighs) is not one that I'd look to for durability...but that depends on your definition of durability, I suppose. Good luck.

Thanks for all of the good advice. I'll try to use some of the snow to my advantage, if it's still snowing tomorrow and Sunday.

After looking in the archives on the subject, and looking over the

NPS site about the park, I'm looking for specific recommendations for

my [unfortunately] brief visit to RMNP this weekend. I will be

renting a car, and am looking for a good place to set up for the

sunrise on Saturday. I won't be able to get to the visitor's center

until Sat. afternoon, and I'd like a spot that isn't too far a hike--

I haven't done very much hiking at this kind of elevation and a 4

mile long, 1 mile rise hike before dawn (as suggested in a previous

thread) may be a bit ambitious, and perhaps unsafe, given the fact

that I'm traveling alone. Unfortunately, all the long glass in

Denver is out for the Broncos game, so no 400 or 500 teles are in my

posession. Just a 24, 50, and 70-300, along w/ my tripod. It seems

that I may be limited to scenics due to a lack of long/fast glass for

wildlife. Any spots of interest that haven't already been

mentioned? (I'll be coming in from the Estes Park entrance, and will

be staying there on Friday and Saturday nights) Thanks a lot for the

help!

I spent a day and a half at Kodachrome State Park, and can highly recommend that as a place to explore--great light (of course) near dusk. I drove out to Escalante, but didn't get to explore that area enough--and from the drive over, it looked like there was plenty to explore!! As for Bryce--I was there over Labor Day and hiked around the rim of Bryce Amphitheater before sunrise and saw only one other person before 9am. Bryce is beautiful, and Kodachrome SP is only 9 miles away--as opposed to 40-50 for Escalante Grand Staircase, if memory serves me correctly. I'm sure wherever you go will be well worth it.

>but hopefully the throngs of tourists won't be up for the sunrise

>>You are in for an unpleasant surprise. ;(

 

Thanks for the heads up Matthew. Unfortuantely, this was the earliest I could get away from work to shoot. And the mileage constraints on my rental car make Canyonlands out of the question. I will probably become so captivated that I'll have to go back later (and next time w/ a .6 ND grad that I forgot to purchase with my film this week.) Besides the other locations mentioned earlier, is there anywhere else within 30 or 40 miles that is worth driving to? Thanks.

I too will be in Bryce this weekend. Unfortunately on Labor Day, but hopefully the throngs of tourists won't be up for the sunrise. Thanks to this thread, I will check out Escalante Grand Staircase as well. Never been here before, but I imagine that the suggestions of a warming filter and judiciously applied polarizer will come in handy. I too have seen many photos of the desert in mid-day with Velvia and a polarizer, which make for torturous viewing. Good shooting--maybe I'll run into some other photo.netters. This being my first trip to the SW, I'm truly excited about photographing in Utah (and very glad to see this thread right before I left!)

Thanks to everyone for the sexcellent responses, and please keep them

coming!

Thanks for the answers, everyone. I just received my Marshall's oils,

and can't wait to start. Hopefully, the advice I received here will

lessen my learning curve.

I've just purchased Marshall's "Hobby Set" of photo oils, and am about to dive into the world of hand tinting my prints. I was hoping that perhaps others would share some advice and experience with me, to help reduce the learning curve. Also, what hand colored photos have worked for you, and why were the images effective? Thanks in advance for the responses.