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brandon_ward

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  1. <p>I got my Mamiya 6 with the full assortment of lenses a month ago from Japan. My early impressions:</p> <p>1. I can see that the film winder could be fragile, but IME it's always the problem you don't anticipate that bites you, not the one you think will happen. Consider all of the '6 owners that HAVEN'T posted problems to the Internet.</p> <p>2. Plastic/rubber appears to have degraded ever so slightly over time - it's a little sticky, especially if my hands are the least bit sweaty. No biggie so far.</p> <p>3. Images are NEEDLE-PRECISION-TACK SHARP. WOW. Looking at a tripod mounted RVP 100 chrome on my lightbox with a Schneider 4x loupe takes my breath away. I should also add, my Bronica ETR images (when tripod mounted) look fantastic, too. But there seems to be something "extra sharp" about the Mamiya - believe the hype.</p> <p>4. I'm good with the bokeh, at least so far. Some have complained of it. Maybe I'm just bowled over by the tonality, creaminess and "medium format look", but I like the OOF areas and what have you. Quite pleasant.</p> <p>5. Leaf shutter! You can squeeze a couple of extra stops out of your shutter speed and still get good results. I think I shot an available light portrait of a buddy at 1/15 with the 50mm lens and the in-focus areas are perfectly sharp, at least on the 4" reference print.</p> <p>6. Leaf shutter! This camera is so quiet to operate, it puts a grin on your face, especially when you are trying to be quiet and hear the light "click" of the shutter. No mirror slap is nice.</p> <p>7. Rangefinder limitations and pros/cons - they exist.</p> <p>8. Not digital! For good and bad. Returning to film after 10 years (though not exclusively) has been an excellent challenge for me and reinvigorating. I shoot differently with my DSLR than with my Bronica ETR than with the Mamiya. And I love shooting all of them, but especially MF film.</p> <p>9. Be prepared that you may only be able to shoot B&W through this one day, if she serves you loyally and stays functional. The lovely color emulsions seem to be dying off a few at a clip. Commit to hoard film (I need to spend my $200 on 120 film yet this month, note to self). </p> <p>10. The 150mm is a bit tough for me to focus, as the RF overlap area is a bit hard to see, or else I just need more practice (probably both). It's the least used of the 3 lenses on my rig so far.</p> <p>11. You're buying into a (most likely) fully depreciated, devalued, obsolete operating system (film) and can get fantastic deals - hence the risk outlined above. And, yeah, I love seeing images from a 5DMKIII or D800, and want to want to upgrade my digital rig, but...I enjoy film. No matter what anyone says, a DSLR WILL be obsolete quickly. If you buy new in this market, you get great image quality at the top end, but...you're pre-paying someone else's depreciation. </p> <p>12. We have lots of options as photographers today. Don't overthink it. Maybe buy two Fujis, or buy a Mamiya 6/7. But buy one. You'll buy more. I'm in the process of getting my granddad's Ikoflex restored. Why not? We live once - if a camera helps you get off the couch and shooting, or just "fits" properly in your hand, that's what counts. The Mamiya 6 feels right in my hand, as does my ETR. And I'mg digging formats other than APS-C or 135, especially square - "refreshing" is the word that comes to mind when I look through the finder.<br> Good luck with the decision and getting to know your new camera(s)!</p>
  2. <p>This is a late response, but does the OP know how shallow DOF at f/2.8 on a 6x6 frame will be? I know the application is portraiture, but it's important to remember that DOF at 2.8 will appear to be REALLY REALLY shallow for someone if they are coming from 35mm or FX/DX formats. </p> <p>Something to think about, as is the point about focusing ability and screen brightness. I don't own a 'blad but I do have a Bronica ETR and Mamiya 6 and the Bronica's screen is a bit dim - tough to focus and keep critical sharpness when handheld. If shooting 100 speed film handheld in diffuse shadows, your shutter speed will also be low, which can have an impact on apparent sharpness due to mirror slap or camera shake (I say this not from a pixel-peeping or dictionary basis, but from a "How does my print look?" basis).<br> I guess my question is - what lighting will you be shooting portraits in where the max shutter speed is an issue? Bright sunlight + portraits is typically (typically) not a great combination. And, will the camera be handheld or tripod mounted? <br> Regarding, DOF, the rule of thumb I've heard (and can vouch for) is that if you're coming from a smaller format, you typically will need two stops smaller aperture to get similar DOF. E.g., f/11 in medium format renders closer to f/5.6 in 35mm to the eye. Something to think about. </p> <p>Ah, meandering posts. We love them just like photo.net. </p> <p>OP - have you explored your new camera and lens? Can you contribute a follow-up to this thread? </p>
  3. <p>I had that issue and removed the batteries, replaced them, changed lenses and then changed lenses back - and shutter fires. I'm hoping mine isn't an issue with the body, but rather with power. I just got this one used and the batteries came with the camera. </p>
  4. <p>I see them going for $820 with a 75(?) 2.8 in the US on eBay. I'd look for less than that. I thought about a RF645 but went with a Mamiya 6 recently because I've heard of issues with parts availability for future service, given the short production run this great camera saw. </p>
  5. <p>I just got a Mamiya 6 and second the notion that the meter/shutter actuation is distinct from one another, albeit the touch is significantly lighter than, say, with my old F3 or Bronica ETRS. It's possible that a bushing may have worn out from overuse, but that would probably imply a LOT of actuations. I would focus on a lighter/defter touch first before asking (and paying) Mamiya to fix it. </p>
  6. <p>Quote: I just shake my head when a bride is willing to pay 800.00 for a photo booth but balks at paying a thousand for a basic photo coverage. It's always been that way in the wedding industry. The majority of brides will pay for the things that their guests will see. /Quote<br> <br> Then, sell the photo booth. As photographers, we need to stop trying to force 'our' vision and standards down the throats of those who don't / can't appreciate it. Learn to read a prospect/lead, ask questions about budget and expectations and MAKE IT EASY for the bride to enjoy her day with WHAT IS IMPORTANT TO HER. <br> <br> This, coming from the guy who's heavily discounted weddings for friends (with a 50% "satisfaction rate"; my cheapest wedding was the one that is most maligned to this day, so...lesson learned) and one who prefers to shoot film vs. digital b/c it is easier to get stuff wrong (personal decision; already in counseling, so don't try to change my mind, lol).<br> <br> In short - LISTEN TO THE MARKET. If the market wants photo booths vs. second shooters, DO IT. Offer a full package, make the buying experience EASY and LOW STRESS (what bride-to-be doesn't want THAT?). <br> <br> And --- don't rely on the traditional profit drivers to be there for you. If you can position a photo booth for a wedding, why not a homecoming dance, a bar mitzvah, a birthday, a prom, etc....? <br> <br> Be an imager...and not just a photographer...but most of all, OFFER SOLUTIONS.<br> <br> -- Advice from a dumb sales guy who works from home and makes money helping customers decide to do things that most would find very common-sense....</p>
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