unclebuddha

<p>I was exiting the AirBart Bus at Oakland airport and when I slung my daypack onto my back my 20d and 17-85 fell out and UNDER the Bus! Without thinking, I jumped to the ground and slid under to get the camera. I never even thought that the driver was unaware that I was underneath his bus and I could have been killed. Still makes me feel a little queasy. The hood mount on the lens was chipped and the bottom of the camera body a little scuffed but, otherwise, all was well.</p>

Gordon, as Homer Simpson would say, "Doh!"

 

Actually, I have only uploaded one image from a digital camera. The DFW ramp shot and I have rectified the missing data. The rest are scans from film and I didn't ever keep track of what f-stop/SS I used... Maybe YOU are right and I shouldn't be ranting.

I'll switch to decaf, thanks <G>!

Wayne, if I want to just think about the light I get a coffee table book and sit down and look. As I see it, the details give a starting point because so many folks are heavily photoshopping their pictures on here. So it isn't just the light I'm seeing, it is the choice of gear and the crutch of PS. I'm just asking for the starting point and I think that MANY new users of this site NEED that to aid them. If you go look at the picture of the Chinese man on the Home Page right now (by Saleem Khawar) you will see a HEAVILY PS'd image. New folks will look and just set their gear down and walk away. This site can be better than that and WE need to make sure it IS better. Phil G. set this site up to be ALL ABOUT learning after all.

Hello. I've been a member here for a long time. It used to be that everyone

gave details on their photographs. As a learning tool, I like to see what

camera/lens combo and f-stop/shutter speed was used. In recent times, it seems

like MOST of the photos on the Home Page (the good pics in the upper right

corner) are lacking any details. Hey, if I'm going to take the time to look

your picture over, is it too much to ask for you to take the time to give me

some details?

 

If you feel the same, can we not get some administrative action?

Thanks,

Mark Atwell

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I have found the 70-200 L to be so much more contrasty (much less flare) when shooting soccer that I sold my 75-300 IS (the old one). I have heard the new 75-300 IS DO (the short one for over $1000) is VERY good but cannot afford it yet.

I'm trying to help a friend figure out Lightroom. He would like to resize his

images for Emails and Websites. In PS, I just use the Image Size functions to

make the image e.g. 5x7 at 72 dpi. Can you tell me where this function is

located in Lightroom?

 

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

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Sorry I didn't say the camera is a 20d. The specks do not seem to "focus" as the lens does. The specks on the sensor are all cleaned off.

I just did my first sensor cleaning using Pec Pads and fluid. The sensor is

markedly cleaner after the swabbing. But I still see some specks when I look

thru the viewfinder. I removed the lens and swabbed the mirror but they are

still there. The rear element of the lens looks clear. Any ideas?

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Thanks!

I was just reading over the guidelines on the EOS pages of the Canon Website and

I'm a little puzzled (NOT the first time!). When taking the camera from a Cold

environment (hotel room) to a Warm environment (the beach) you should put the

camera in an airtight bag "to allow condensation on the bag, not inside the

camera". Why? Doesn't the condensation occur anywhere the cold camera is in

contact with the humid air as the air cools down? I can see how the bag would

get wet, why doesn't the airspace inside the camera (e.g. between the lens and

sensor)? Thanks, Snake

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Chrysta, don't discount the wisdom of a flip-out LCD *especially* for a diaper-bag camera. You will be able to take pictures of the little ones at THEIR level without bending over. You will be able to take self portraits of you and the little one with interesting backgrounds by twisting the screen so that it is on the same side as the lens. Finally, you will be able to put the camera in your purse with the screen protected from all those nasty, scratchy things you wimmins like to carry there!

I almost insist on an articulating screen on my point and shoots.

Snake

Thanks for the responses and the electronics lesson! I put new Alkalines in the HD80 and it seemed to work. I transferred about 800MB off of a 1GB card. Then I tried to transfer to my computer and it got about 2/3 of the way thru and the HD80 shutdown! I took out the batteries and they were warm and I smelled burned circuits! Hmmmm. Maybe it is the Alkalines, so I went and bought 4 new Duracell NiMH's and charged them in the unit for 6 hours (until the HD80 showed them fully charged). Disconnected the charger, placed the unit on the table and turned it on. The battery indicator showed the batteries discharged, I could hear a faint clicking noise (like the HD was trying to run), and the smoky smell returned. I turned off the unit and decided to call Adorama tomorrow. <ng>

Mark

Well, the Manual specifies that a "full charge (3/3 on the battery meter symbol)" is 4.8V+ and that below 0/3 or 4.2V the unit will stop working. Curious that it doesn't mention the mAH of the batteries because both of the NiMH brands are 1.2V and the Energizer Alkalines are 1.5V. A 'net search doesn't turn up any off-the-shelf Walmart style 5V AA's! I guess I'll try to transfer a 1GB card with the power cord plugged in to make sure the HD is okay. Anyone know what to do next?

Thanks

I just purchased a Hyperdrive HD80 40GB. I have tried both Energizer and

Rayovac NiMH batteries. The Energizers can't hold a charge in the unit and the

Rayovacs elicit an Error 22 message ("please use different batteries"). Any

recommendations for the right type of batteries?

Thanks,

Mark

Ryan,

If you are shooting on a tripod for your test, are you turning off the IS?

Just a thought, my old 75-300 IS is REALLY BAD on the tripod with the gyro on.

Mark

The ONLY drawback to the chest harness (for me anyways) is when I'm hiking my chest sweats and the back of the camera gets moist from being held there. I try to let the camera dangle a little so some air gets in between me and it!

Snake

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A dentist friend is having troubles with his new rig to shoot

mouths... He is using a Rebel XT with 100mm 2.8 Macro and Canon Macro

Ringlite MR-14EX flash (shooting RAW). His problem is inconsistent

exposure. Some of his pics are blown out, some too dark, some just

right. He isn't changing the settings on the camera. Could it be

that just the right amount of glare is coming off that molar or the

meter sees a dark spot in that bicuspid and that is throwing off his

flash? What preferred mode (Av,Tv,P) would YOU use?

THANKS,

Snake

My mother-in-law is looking for an "always carry" point and shoot

digital. She has no patience for choosing this camera as she spent it

all buying a D70.

She is looking at the Nikon 7900, Nikon S1, and Konica Minolta DiMage

X1. Pluses for the Nikon is, well, it is a Nikon. The S1 is tiny.

The KM X1 is tiny AND it has more MP (big deal) AND it has Anti-Shake.

She isn't sure about Konica Minolta glass. She is afraid she'll

always miss her D70 shooting her grandkids and I assure her she will.

YET, being the complicated woman I know and love, she wants something

to carry in her purse.

She is on a camera Jihad.

Please help.

Mark

I have a buddy who's doing a shoot at the local Nascar track. He

seems to have an unlimited budget and here's his question:

"I would like your opinion on this subject. I would like to buy a very

good zoom. The canon 100-400 4.5-5.6 IS L is perfect but slow for auto

racing. What do you think about a 70-200 F 2.8 IS L and a 1.4 or 2.0

converter to get close to a 400mm and still have 200 f 2.8 when you

need it. I know the cost is more with the 70-200, bit I'm looking for

just one lens combo. On the 20d that would actuall be 280 f2.8, not

bad at all. What do you say to that?"

 

I would personally go with 70-200 with extender but I'd like your

opinions.

Thanks,

Snake