ruben leal

When you say "shutter sync", do you mean you were using a flash? And, if that is correct, where you using wireless devices to trigger your flashes? I believe it is possible to have interference causing problems with wireless triggers, and that interference could cause shutter sync issues if you shoot near the highest shutter speed allowed for proper sync. If you are talking of something else, I don't believe a camera, of any known manufacturer, could receive interference from "normal" wireless signals, which could mean you were exposed to an abnormal amount of RFI.

Something I have never seen in a review or user report of the 6D is the difference on the way it does multiple exposure when compared to the 5D Mk III (but anyway this comparison is not about the later).

Why did you sell your old lenses? Did you find yourself looking for something else? Which focal lengths did you use with those lenses? The answer to these questions would help others to offer you a better advise. For example, I suppose you used the 50mm as a portrait lens. Then a Lens in the 80-85mm range would be the closest approximation in focal length. Did you find that focal length appropriate for your style? Where you constantly struggling to find a larger room when doing indoor portraits, or it was more likely that you ended leaving this lens at home and using the 70-300mm for portraits? Also, if you got used to fully extend the 70-300mm for maximum reach, or even cropping to get closer to your subjects, then you must consider at least a lens in the 400mm range, which is still shorter than your previous setup when camera formats are considered. Did you find proper image quality when using your previous camera and lenses? Or was that the reason to upgrade? Did you move from APS-C to 135 for a specific reason? Again, all these questions would help better understand your needs.

Another option is a hood that doesn't attaches to the lens, like the Flare Buster (http://www.flarebuster.com). I have used this for around a year with very good results for landscape photography, and it may also work as a small reflector when doing macro photography.

I don't have this lens, and I always use a hood on all of my lenses, however, from the photos of the lens I found over the net, I believe you could use this lens without a hood, as the front element seems to be quite deep within the lens body. Regarding adapting another lens' hood to be used with this one, I don't think that's possible, as the hoods usually attach to the front to the retracting part of the lens body, but in this case there are no groves to attach a hood, so the only two options would be the suggestion from Puppy Face, or attaching a hood with some screws, which may damage the lens if excessive force is applied when attaching such hood.

That seems to be what you are looking for, but I can't tell you if that specific item actually works, or even if that brand is worth the (reasonable) price. I own the similar Canon TC-80N3 (http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/app/pdfs/quickguides/CDLC_TC-80N3_QuickGuide.pdf), but Canon doesn't offers this kind of remote control for the cameras in the Rebel series. The only remote switch in the Canon lineup for Rebel cameras is the RS-60E3, which may help you, but it doesn't has a timer (with this remote switch you have two options: to maintain your finger in the button, or to slide the switch to keep the shutter open until you slide the switch back, but you need to manually keep track of the exposure time or interval).

An EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM is a very nice standard zoom, but a little bit on the long side for an APS-C body (as every Canon EF normal range zoom lens). I would complement it with a wider zoom, probably with the new EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM, but would also consider the EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM and the EF 17-40mm f/4L USM. The 17-40 is one of the best lenses in the Canon lineup, but many people says it works better on a full frame body (as you have a limited aperture range before getting into the diffraction zone). I'm not sure about third party super wide angle lenses for Canon cameras (although some people use the Nikon ones with adapters). Regarding the suggestions for the EF 70-200mm f/4L, it is a great lens, but not the best option for indoor sports or school plays in dark scenarios. If budget is an issue, I rather go for a set of primes before resorting to a slower zoom lens. The problem with primes is the need to switch lenses to get the right focal length, which may be reduced if "feet zooming" is possible (but I don't think that's a possibility in the cases you exposed). My choice in primes would be the EF 85mm f/1.8 USM, the EF 100m f/2 USM, and, maybe, the EF 200mm f/2.8L USM. I used to photograph theater plays only with an EF 50mm f/1.4, but I was allowed to move around during the rehearsals. Now I added the EF 100mm f/2 USM and find it a great lens.

The EOS 3 also has ECF (Eye Controlled Focus), as well as some other Elans. As E-TTL was mention, it is also worth saying that the Elan 7/7E are E-TTL cameras, while the Elan 7n/7nE are E-TTL II cameras. This means the 7n series has custom functions to select Evaluative or Average metering. The only issue is that the 7n wasn't made in Japan, with some people complaining at the time about a lower quality product (but perhaps just because it wasn't made in Japan and not exactly about any functionality issue). Anyway, you weren't asking about the EOS 3 or the Elan 7n/7nE.

Both are very good cameras. The 1N is older than the Elan 7, but is a series 1 body, meaning a more robust construction, and, perhaps, more custom functions. The 7E has eye control and near silent film transport. I believe the 1N is heavier, and is quite possible that it has a very used shutter (a pro using a 1 series camera would changed a 1N for a 1V or 1VHS before switching to digital). The Elan was an advanced amateur series (replaced by the Elan 7N/7NE at the same time digital became mainstream), then knowing how was based only in the model is as certain as a coin toss.

According to Canon's Learning Center, the 5D Mk II doesn't seems to have that option: http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/app/pdfs/quickguides/CDLC_MultiExposure_Feature_QuickGuide.pdf Nevertheless the 550D/T2i is neither listed or a model in their current lineup, then can't say the previous document is conclusive, although is worth reviewing for the functionality options for the listed cameras (I just learned a weakness for the 6D reading it).

It would depend on the focal range you prefer, as well as on your budget. For sports and plays, the best option will be a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens. Image stabilization wouldn't help in sports, but may help in plays, depending on the actual scene. For the wider angle, this are my suggestions. Looking only at Canon lenses, the EF-S17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM is a great lens, with a good wide angle, and may complement the 70-200mm you are also considering, nevertheless, this is a pricey lens. There is also the EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM, not as good as the f/2.8, but with a better zoom range, starting a little bit wider than the previous one, and a lot more on the long side. Both of these have image stabilizer for better handheld results, and also both of these have ultrasonic focusing motors, for faster and very precise autofocusing. A recommendation for an even wider lens would be the EF-S10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM, but this is a speciality lens, as it will go from super wide to wide. You could complement this lens with your current EF50mm f/1.8 and the 70-200mm, but you may find you are lacking some important focal lengths in the 23-49mm range, perhaps the most used range in the APS-C format photography. You could also need constant lens changes, preventing you from having a quick response, and risking the entrance of more dust to your sensor than having a single zoom lens. Looking at other brands, the new Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM is a lens worth checking. While it doesn't has a great zoom range, it has an impressive f/1.8 constant maximum aperture. There are many options available in the market, both from Canon and from respected third party manufacturers like Sigma, Tamron and Tokina, but this may be a little introduction to the available options. If you take a look at the offerings from respectable stores, like Adorama and B&H, and check what lenses within your budget comply to your needs, we may help you choosing the right lens for your needs.

Courtney, what's your current lens and why it doesn't works for you anymore? Once you identify the reason to change, then it will be easier to help you decide.

Is this still for the 5D Mk III you are trying to use for a CCTV? You should keep the conversation in http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00cbkY instead of starting a new thread.

I would begin by asking myself why should I carry the manual for a lens. That particular lens has three "controls": the AF/MF switch, and the focus and zoom rings. What else do you need to know? Once you know how to change a lens, you will change every lens exactly the same way. Once you set your camera to avoid auto focusing while you manually rotate the focus ring, you know that the configuration is on your camera, not on your lens. Then, why bother carrying a lens' manual? Or am I missing something?

Caution: the 18-55mm (and all the EF-S lenses) isn't compatible with EOS 135 format film cameras such as the Elan 7E.

Justin, first a clarification: When you say "Portrait Mode", do you mean the camera mode dial is set to the icon of a portrait, or do you mean your camera must be in a vertical position (also known as "Portrait Orientation") for you to take the picture? While the Sigma incompatibility with certain EOS bodies was a well known problem back in the day of film cameras, I don't remember ther was any workaround to make it work, then is quite odd that you could use it anyhow. The camera portrait mode (the one with the portrait icon) will try to expose for a shallow depth of field, which is achieved with a large aperture, then the camera will try f/2.8 as a starting point, as that's the widest aperture supported by your lens, which is the diafragram aperture you said you were able to use (didn't said if in Av or Manual mode) with that camera-lens combination. Then that would make some sense as there is some behavior pattern you discovered. On the other hand, if you mean in portrait orientation (having the camera in vertical position), I would also ask if you are using a battery pack with a vertical shutter. While the lens shouldn't matter in this case, sometimes the vertical shutter could cause some differences. By the way, in your second post you ask if you will only be able to take photos at f/2.8 or if you will be able to use all the aperture range. I guess we can't answer this without knowing how you set your camera to f/2.8. For example, if you set your camera to portrait mode, and there is so much light to expose at f/2.8 with the fastest shutter speed available in your camera (perhaps 1/8,000s?) you will notice one of two options in your viewfinder: a) The aperture closes to f/4 or whatever needed to obtain the proper exposure, or b) The maximum Shutter speed blinks, warning you that the photo will be overexposed.