morado

<p>May I say that every picture is different and will have differente needs.<br>

Again, the simpler the picture (fewer details) the fewer number of tiles that you will need.<br>

It will also depend on the distant from which you will be looking the picture. As you get closer you will be able to look at each individual tile (which is what you may want).<br>

I would suggest 500 tiles as an starting point.</p>

<p>AndreaMosaic is quite good as a mosaic software. I have try several others and their are quite similar.<br>

The instructions and tutorials at its site are good.<br>

It is really important that you have a big (really big) collection in order to get the best results.<br>

It is also important that that the picture that you want to transform into a mosaic doesn't have too much detail. In this case, the simpler the better.<br>

As you get closer to these two guides, you can make mosaics with fewer tiles.</p>

<p>The term SLR does not refer to the number of lenses that the camera may have (wide angle, normal, telefoto, zoom, etc) but to the number of lenses it has to focus and actually taking the picture. As it has been answered, we use to had Twin lense reflex (TLR) and Single Lense Reflex (SLR). In the former, the camera had one lens for focusing and a second lens for the picture. In the SLR the camera use the same lens for focusing and actually taking the picture. That is why we need the mirror in the camera. The mirror and the pentaprism are used for focusing. When you take a picture, the mirror is lifted so the same lens is used.</p>

For the body-paint I would recommend Kryolan or Mehron.

With Kryolan Aquacolor you just add water and you can apply with a brush or a sponge.

Mehron has a powder and a liquid that mix together and then you can apply it with a brush or a sponge. Some people just mix the powder with baby oil.

These two are water based so you can wash them off just with water and soap.

You can also apply them to the hair.

After the bodypaint, you can add a sealer to make it last during the day.

 

You can find some information in modelmayhem.com in their MUA forum.

 

I hope this was helpful.

Here is a link to a page where they talk about the process for the movie:

 

http://www.stopmotionworks.com/articles/cbrdstrpdbare.htm

Taken from the imdb.com trivia for Corpse Bride:

 

"This is the first feature to be made with commercial digital still photography cameras (31 Canon EOS-1Ds MARK II SLR cameras with Nikon Lenses) instead of film cameras."

 

As you can see, it can be done and has been done.

 

Victor

My cell phone uses a M2 card and it came with a Memory Stick adapter. I bought a second card and it came with a Memory Stick Duo adapter. Other cell phones use Mircro SD, and the ones I've seen also come with adapters. I just use a card reader to transfer the pictures to my computer.

As it had been said you can also use Bluetooth, IR or an USB cable if the cell phone has any of these capabilities.

You just need to get an R-72 filter. It is not as expensive as you mentioned.

The only issue is that the exposure time will be long.

I recently shoot at the beach, with full sun, and my exposition time was 1 second f4 with ISO 1600.

Cokin only makes the infrared filter 007 (89b) and it starts at 720 nm.

If i remember well, Ilford used to make an SFX filter that fitted the Cokin systems, but I don't see it in its current catalog, and it was similar to the 89b.

I second the Canon IX Lite, a nice SLR.

It's your hand holding the cellphone.

I also have had some problem with CDs as backup media. Fortunately I could recober some of the information, but ever since I decided to use an external hard drive.

It was just a few of my CDs that were unreadable, but nevertheless I prefer not to take chances.

A very generous gift.

 

Happy holidays Patrick.

 

Victor

In the manual it states that the changes can be seen only when saved.

I would say that the manual should be more especific and clear in several topic, such as this one, as it is kind of buried.

There are several model sites where you could find some more information.

Try modelmayhem.com for example. Look for its forums where they have interesting treats.

As for brands, I would suggest either Kryolan or Mehron.

Kryolan make a makeup that you add water and you can apply it with a sponge or a brush.

Mehron make a metallic powder that is added Mixing Liquid and you can apply it with a brush or by hand.

I prefer water based paints as they are easier to take off (just a bath).

With all these kind of processes you will make contact prints, that is the negative will be in contact with the paper. That means that the size of the print will be the size of the negative. If you use a 35 mm negative it will be rather small. Even medium format may be sort of small. Look for digital negatives in this site.

You will need also a press for the contact printing. It can be cardboard and a piece of glass so the negative stay in touch with the paper. Then you can lay the press in the sun to get the exposure.

You can get more information in the "B&W Film & Processing Forum" - "Alternative Process", or in http://www.alternativephotography.com/

It would depend on how much IR light the changing bag reflects. I have done it and I didn't get any problems. Actually I once loaded the film in daylight and I got just some minor fogging, nevertheless I would recomend the changing bag at least.

I guess that what John is tryng to say is: why do we need more and more pixels? of course we will have bigger computer with bigger storage space, but then again do we really need them? now with the 8 Mpixel we say that tey aren't enough, when we get 16 Mpixel we will say that they are not enough, but enough for what?

yes, I know that they are quite different, but he question remains: what is the expected shutter life. I may think in upgrade my DSRL camera to a new one and I would like to know the options. My guess is that the Rebel XT will be similar and have a few life cycles compared to de 20d and better, so I would had the same problem.

What is the expected shutter cycle life of the diferent Canon cameras?

I have a Digital Rebel and had to change the shutter already twice. I

also have a Powershot G6 and I have taken more picture with it than

with the Digital Rebel.

I will also suggest salt paper. It is quite easy to do and you don't need many things.

I once asked also for enlargement, and there where several points why it is hard to do. Check that most of the process need a UV source and they require long expossures.

 

Victor

You could use any camera. What you see is what your camera sees. Just be careful as it is a small amount of ligth which is refelcted so the exposures can be very long. Try to mesure on an element that is reflecting the light. If most of the subject is black (not reflecting the blacklight) the camera will over expose.

In general, both cameras are very similar, but the main differences are: the G6 has a hotshoe so you can use external flash, the G6's lense is faster (2.0), the zoom is more powerful (4x vs 3.6) but its shorter length is bigger (35mm vs 28mm equiv.). As usual, it depends on what do you want. 20D will add a lot more features and you should decide if their are worth to you.

I've got an Hoya R72 filter and I have used it with the G6. It works really well. Of course it will led to long exposure times.