fourthst

<p>Jay,<br>

Thanks very much. Your input has been most helpful. Instead of varying the dilution ratios I am mixing enough developer to change it out half way through the 7min process. As you suggest I have increased the volume in the tank at any given time a bit. I've just put a 3rd roll in the dryer using this method. I'll look at it this evening but it is all looking better. If it doesn't work then I'll start varying the dilutions. The attached shot is from the second roll (pinhole camera) and the smoother tones on the right side look pretty clean. Again, I will be shooting some clear sky, when it occurs, and continue this personal little odyssey. Thanks for the compliment as well. </p><div></div>

<p>Jay, I've only had this issue with staining developers and the slower rotation speeds. That is why my first tests will be with rotation speeds. I've hesitated to do so up to now because all information recommends as slow as possible. I've actually run 2 rolls since at a faster rotation rate and they look pretty good so far. However, I haven't tried the acid test with a clear sky yet. We shall see.<br>

Eric, PMK MC is an update to HD and is suppose to be more rotary friendly. The testing continues.</p>

<p>Thanks Eric. I've run other film/developer combinations in Jobo equipment for years without issue. The Pyro is being particularly fussy. I'll fiddle with speeds, developer quantities and, as you suggest, a partial lift of the tank. I'm actually working on a (very) simple cam for the 120, 3 reel tank to automatically perform a partial lift as the tank rotates. The testing continues. </p>

<p>Thanks everyone. I'm actually using Pyrocat MC. Not terribly different than HD but more rotary tube friendly. I use the regular jobo tubes (with cogs) and reels for 120 film. I too believe it is laminar flow. All Pyro literature I've found related to rotary tube recommends the slowest rotation. However this seems to be the source of the problem. I'll start by increasing rotation speed. I may be overly concerned about developer exhaustion so I will change it out halfway through for the first tests. If that doesn't work I'll start playing with chemical volume (mine goes to 11). I don't think the pre-wash is an issue. Other than the flow marks in smooth non-textured areas the film looks fine (see other shot from same test roll). My normal camera is pinhole so acutance isn't much of a concern. Again thanks to all who took the time to offer suggestions. </p>

<div></div>

<p>I shoot Acros 100 rated at 50. Don't tell me I have to switch film.</p>

<p>Yes, that's mostly true. However, most of my work is with pinhole cameras, sharpness isn't an issue. I like the way pyro handles highlights. </p>

<p>I'm testing Pyrocat hd and processing in a Jobo rotary processor. I'm getting noticeable streaking in open even areas. I'm using the slowest rotation speed and use a 5 min pre-development water soak. I'm going to increase the rotation speed and change developer half way through the 7min processing time. Anyone have any experience and or solutions?</p><div></div>

<p>I too join this discussion late. I've skimmed the responses and have not seen what may be an issue. I'm in the agitation as the cause school. With hand tanks inversion agitation is my method of preference. That means filling the tank with enough solution to just cover the reels. This will leave an airspace between the developer and the tank lid. When inverting the tank this airspace causes considerable turbulence. That turbulence should even out the overdevelopment along the edges of the film. Do the same in the stop and fix. Good luck.</p>

<p>I've ordered the MC and will give it a try. Due to space limitations I don't have a darkroom. I scan then print with an ink-jet printer loaded with K6 inks. I don't foresee an issue switching from PMK to MC. <br>

Again, thanks for the information.</p>

<p>Jim, thanks very much. I've been using PMK for quite a while but still have some minor issues. I thought I give the Pyrocat a try and see what I get. I too shoot Acros @ 50. Do you use the lowest rotation speed setting with the Pyrocat? Paul</p>

<p>I was wondering if anyone here has any experience processing 120 film using pyrocat hd in a jobo (cpp2 style) processor. If so would you mind sharing your technique. I've found info on using the expert drums for large format but next to nothing on roll film on reels. Thanks.</p>

<p>Try a couple of drops of LFN in the developer.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your quick responses.<br /> It's easier finding a blacksmith than E-6 labs.<br>

I guess more folks have horses than shoot film.</p>

<p>Does anyone know of a commercial lab still processing E-6 sheet film. Contrary to Moderage's site they do not. A quick search, here on PhotoNet, I found reference to Dorian Labs in MA but could not find their lab on the web. Seems they sell photo art now.</p>

<p>Air bells. I've had problems with them on and off in the past. I started using a couple of drops of Edwal's LFN in my developer and have not seen them since.</p>

<p>I know nothing of the Mamiya 7 workings, however using a body cap would seem more appropriate for true pinhole shooting. I have done just such a thing with my Canon digital. Would the body cap satisfy the interlocks you mention?</p>

<p>Sorry to get back on track here but, was the reporter on library property? If so it seems to me to be more a library policy matter than a legal issue.</p>

 

<p>Hi Moises, I recently started shooting Acros 100 @ 50 but process in PMK pyro. I shoot pinhole so my exposures are often several minutes. I've been quite impressed with the results. I intend to do some long exposure lens photography with my hassy in the near future and will start with the Acros/PMK combo. Whether you use Xtol or another developer I would encourage you to give Acros @ 50 a try yourself. Your work is really quite lovely.</p>

<p>Whew, I forgot how many questions there are.<br>

Film holders are fairly easy to purchase though a bit expensive. E-bay probably a reasonable source for used holders. The good news is they last a long time if taken care of. I have several that are decades old and still going strong. Any standard 8x10 film holder would fit that camera. My cart is like a carry on luggage with the little wheels and the handle that collapses into itself. The bottom platform at the base of the handle, in use, is at a right angle to the handle. When not in use the platform folds up against the collapsed handle. Anything with wheels would work if compact enough. You have to answer the trade off of negative size or ready load question for yourself. They are indeed extremely convenient and reduce the need (cost) of film holders. With 8x10 you would need the changing tent (bag) I mentioned earlier and several holders and a spare film box to store exposed film. I couldn't imagine this being very convenient on a game reserve in Southern Africa. People do it however for the love of that big honkin' negative.<br>

It looks like the camera comes with two lenses and perhaps an extension rail for longer bellows draw. Not being an Arca guy I don't know for sure. The second bellows does look like 4x5 bellows or compendium lens hood.<br>

For a quick check for pinholes stick your face in the bellows and look. Small holes are fairly easily repaired if there are just one or two. Many spell trouble.<br>

WT has made a couple of good suggestions. You might want to look here as well: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/</p>

 

<p>Learn a second language, have your camera with you whenever possible but don't take your camera with you and 'look' for photographs, don't take yourself so serious, but most important, remember, it's the image not the equipment.</p>

<p>Pinhole.</p>

<p>Brent, for starters you will need 8x10 film holders, a lupe for fine focusing, a focusing hood (cloth), a changing bag is a great help, a good tripod and a small cart is a good idea. You may get some holders and the focus cloth with the camera.</p>

<p>8x10 film is readily available, mail order, from several sources, color and B&W. Cameras, supporting equipment, and film are all more costly than 4x5. 8x10 is heavier and bulkier but the quality is remarkable and one looks really cool using an 8x10. I'm not terribly familiar with the Arca-Swiss line of cameras, however, this looks like it could easily be used in the field if not expressly designed for that purpose. It appears to be be fairly light in weight and as if it can be configured to be carried in a reasonably compact manner while allowing for easy set up. Needless to say any field camera can be used in a studio (perhaps with some loss of flexibility). As to the lens, if it is in clean shape and in good working order it is a good lens. Let me know if you don't want it. It is of a longer focal length and requires X amount of bellows extension for closer focusing. I have a shorter focal length lens and I'm looking to replace it with one closer to this focal length. If the price is right for the package and you decide to go 8x10, I'd go for it.</p>

<p>Peter, you only need to extend development about 10% (a starting point) if you dilute D-76 1:1 and develop it in a 8 oz tank. Alternately, you could put one loaded reel and one empty reel in a 16 oz tank and use 16 oz @1:1 and not need to extend development. That way you still have the required 8 oz stock developer per 80 sq in of film. I prefer that method. This all assumes you are using 35mm 36exp.</p>

<p>Peter, it is indeed personal preference. If you prefer working with HC-110 and like the results then that is the developer for you. Agitating 5 sec. every 30 sec. is fine (actually recommended for shorter dev times). One way to reduce agitation issues is to first fill the tank with just enough developer to just cover the film, that goes for stop and fix as well. To determine how much chemical you need, put an empty reel in an empty tank then pour in just enough water to cover the reel by about 1/4 inch (If you are using a 2 reel tank, put in 2 reels etc). There should be a fair amount of space left in the tank between the water and the top of the tank. Pour that water into a measuring cup and that is the amount of chemical you need to use when developing. Now, when you invert the tank the air pocket will provide adequate movement of chemical to avoid areas of uneven agitation.</p>