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Aoresteen

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Posts posted by Aoresteen

  1. I just bought a Canon 5D (first version Mark I) and I can not get the rear LCD to come on. The top LCD comes on. Focus doesn't seem to work (lens is set to AF) although it focus when I turn the camera on.

     

    The battery is fully charged. I have an empty 2GB CF card in it. I downloaded the user manual for the Canon 5D but could not find anything in the manual on turning the LCD on or off.

     

    I tried to playback an image (page 107). Nothing happens - the 5D does not access the CF card.

     

    I have two Canon EF lenses: 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 Ultrasonic and the 75mm-300mm f/45.6 III. Both lenses work fine in my EOS 630, EOS 630, and EOS Rebel S film cameras.This is my first Canon digital camera.

     

    Is there a way to re-set the camera without using the menus (which I can not see) ? I read the manual and on page 150 shows a way to clear the settings but that assumes that you can see something on the rear screen.

     

    Before I return the camera, I want to make sure the 5D doesn't have a simple way to get it fully working.

     

    TIA!

     

    Tony

  2. Harry Fleenor at rolleirepairs.com is a respected name in the business. Mark Hansen at zeissikonrolleirepair.com is another possibility (though his site mentions that he is nearly 6 months backlogged). I have not had work done by either technician, however.

     

    Harry did wonderful work on my Rolleiflex 2.8C - He installed a Maxwell screen during the service. Highly recommended.

  3. I have a lot of love for Vivitar glass. Series 1 lenes of the 70s & 80s are very fine lenes. I have the 28mm, the 70-210 zoom 3rd version Komine (the best version), and the 135mm f/2.3. I have about 6 other Vivitar lenses as well from the 70s & 80s. They are all fine performers. As mentioned above in the 90s and later quality declined.

     

    As to your 35mm lens need, Vivitar glass will work just fine. The absolute best M42 35mm lens I own is the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated 35mm f/3.5. And I have the SMC Takumar 35mm f/2.

  4. Waldemar,

     

    Sorry I missed your reply 6 years ago. Common adapters like the Heavystar one do not have the grove cut in them so that the Leica clip-on shade 12585 can clip on & reverse ove the lens for storage..

     

    I just bought another 1952 Sumitar for my IIIf and I will have to have SK grimes make another ring. They also made me a 40mm to 39mm step-down ring with the grove cut into it for use on my Canon L39 lenses. I should have kept the first Sumitar adapter SK Grimes made for me! Live & learn!

  5. My IF & IIIF have very specific uses. My Voigtlander 15mm sits on the IF as the lens is not RF coupled. The 15mm viewfinder sits in the cold shoe. Works very well.

     

    The 21mm Voigtlander sits on my IIIF body as it is RF coupled so I can check close focus when needed. The 21mm viewfinder sits in the cold shoe.

     

    Why waste an M viewfinder when using the 15mm or 21mm? You have to use an aux finder anyway. (yeh I should have bought a Bessa R4M when they came out :( )

     

    I use Leicavits on both of my L39 bodies. That's why I just bought a Canon VI-T to use mostly with my Canon 35mm f/2 lens. Trigger winds rock!

     

    I have been known to put a 50mm lens on my IIIF and use it as a walk-about set up.

  6. And BTW, you forgot about lenses. Medium digital format is mostly promarket, don't think pros will dump their MF lens collection just because Fuji camera a bit cheaper......../QUOTE]

     

    How true. That is precisely why I have stuck with my Olympus 4/3 DSLR E-5s and not moved to m43 no matter what everyone thinks of them. I am too heavily invested in 4/3 glass to even consider moving to m43. My editors have never complained about my images from 4/3 and none of them have even asked what camera I use.

     

    I am saving up for a digital back for my 500C :)

  7. If you put a piece of tape over the DX code on the roll of film, it may make the camera think that the film doesn't have any DX codes and allow you to set the ISO manually. My first EOS camera was an Elan IIe, whereby such ISO adjustments were quite easily done.

     

    Thanks. That occurred to me but why should I have to do that to adjust the ISO?

     

    I found a note on Ken Rockwell's site for the EOS 650/620 that says:

     

    "If you want to force it (ISO) manually, flip down the rear door, hold down the two ISO buttons, look at the top LCD and spin the dial." That works with my EOS 650 and I need to test it with the 630 when I have a roll of DX film in it. Now why isn't that in the 630 manual? It's easy to do with the 650.

     

    Canon EOS 620 & EOS 650

     

    I will post my results when I load a roll of film again in the 630.

  8. Today I took out my EOS 630 film camera for the first time. It was an exercise in frustration. Hopefully there's someone who remembers this 1989 beast and can answer my questions. I have been taking pictures since 1972 and am used to both film and digital worlds.

     

    Yesterday I put a new battery in the EOS 630. It came to life as expected. I put the 35-105mm Canon on it and it focused and the shutter worked. Good start.

     

    Today I put a roll of HP-5 B&W film in it. I shoot my HP-5 at ISO 200. I could not figure out how you set the ISO speed manually. I read the manual. It said it could be manually set but didn't say HOW to do it. UGH! How does one set the ISO manually on the EOS 630?

     

    1. Every character on lcd lights up until I lighty press the shutter button then I can see what is set, then after a few seconds everything lights up again. Is this normal? Or is my EOS 630 defective?

     

    2. When I press the MODE button and then turn the control wheel as per the manual, nothing happens. Am I missing something? It seems to be stuck on P.

     

    Photography is simple. All you need to control are 3 variables: Shutter speed, aperture, and film/sensor sensitivity. Yet looking at the EOS 630 they have made it extremely hard to do so. And the manual is NOT very clear.

     

    Thanks for any help that you can give me!

  9. The last official firmware released by Olympus for the C-7070WZ seems to be version 1.1. There are indications that a version 1.2 version of the firmware exits. Has anyone ever run across a copy of it? I would love to get a copy of 1.2 to try in one of my 3 C-7070s cameras.

     

    Thanks!

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