avisualemotion

I switched few month ago from Kodak TMY to Fuji Neopan 400 (35mm). I would love to use Delta 400 but it is the most expensive film here.

I am developing Neopan 400 with XTOL 1:1 (200ml+200ml destilate water) in inversion tank at 20C like this:

<pre>

1 x 30sec - non-stop inversion

19 x 30sec - 1x inversion (fast)

</pre>

 

Here you can see few shots:<br>

<ul>

<li><a href="http://piskoftak.sk/.photo.phtml?f=2003-09-29">Following a cat</a>

<li><a href="http://piskoftak.sk/.photo.phtml?f=2003-11-19">Two and half meter of snow</a>

<li><a href="http://piskoftak.sk/.photo.phtml?f=2003-12-09">Lunatics</a>

<li><a href="http://piskoftak.sk/.photo.phtml?f=2003-12-12">Hour by walk</a>

</ul>

More information about my search for film you can read in my journal at http://piskoftak.sk/ from dates between february and april this year.

<br><br>

-richo-

I was using for last few years Kodak TMY with xtol 1:1. Few month ago

I switched to Fuji Neopan 400 and used it with xtol 1:1 with as good

results as with TMY.<br>

 

I would like anyway, get more out of this film and was thinking about

changing developer. In my mind goes: Ilfotec DD-X, Microphen, Kodak

HC110 or Ilfotec HC.<br><br>

 

What do you use for neopan 400? And how does you results looks?

Thank you for your help!<br><br><br>

 

-richo-<br>

http://piskoftak.sk/

I did it few days ago with the same films as you have look at http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003iOp" maybe you find it usefull. I personaly things 50% is too much and way of agitation is also important.

Maybe somebody still find it usefull so I like to note my results:<br>

<ul>

<li>I use XTOL 1:1 and add 10% of time suggested for 20C</li>

<li>First 40% of time I agitate 2 times each 30sec for max 5sec</li>

<li>Second 40% of time I agitate 2 times each 60sec for max 5 sec</li>

<li>Last about 20% of time I didn't agitate</li>

</ul>

 

Result was quite good. Only very senzitive films had fog, but the shadows were o.k. so it is a bit of difficult to print but still possible. For scanning as I am do, it need multiple scan path and extended exposure time as vuescan allowes. That it is quite o.k., but of course far from ideal. For 100ASA and lower there is no problem at all.I found out that doing less agitation at end and longer the development time is the right way.<br>

Hope this can be usefull for somebody.

The fog seems to be not always be present. On 7 years old TMY it was quite amount, but at the same aged TMX almost no fog.

 

<p><b>Q:</b> If I do not like to use any additional chemicals and like to use developer I know (xtol), is a technique I used right? 10% more time and more aggitation at beginig?<br>

Thanks!

Are there any special techniques how to make the best out of old negative , I mean in process of developing it? I just try those 10% and increase agitation, but maybe I can do better.

Hello,

 

I am developing some negatives exposed from 5 to 15 years ago. They

comming o.k. when I extend time about 10% and add some more

aggitation at the begining. Only problem is that the base of film has

a fog. In other words it is much darker than at new films.

 

Is there any way to reduced that foggy background?

Thans a lot.

 

BTW: I am using XTOL 1:1 and films are different Ilford Delta, HP5+,

Kodak TMAX, Fomapan, ...