avisualemotion

<p>This is really funny somehow I find back my post in this thread from 2004. You know I am still using Nikon stuff and I am so happy with it. Even after moving to digital I keeping going with Nikon. First I had F80 that F100 (both for sale ;-) and now with D300.</p>

<p>Still the same reason, camera does what I need and doesn't disturbed me from taking pictures. That is for me a great body.</p>

<p>Richard Vanek<br /> </p><div></div>

Is there a way to enforce that sequence number starts from zero at each new folder?

I name folders by date.

 

Thanks for help

Well I love fomapan 200 exposed at 100 and I used Peterson Aculux now I do Fotospeed FD10. I really like these developers with this film.

I believe that Acufine will be good as well. The edge sharpness with these acutance developers is very nice.<br>

Look at my page about my <a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/article/films_and_developers/">timing and preferred films and developers</a>. You find there not only timing but also example shots. I work with foma 200 for years now. Perfect film. Just need to be a bit more careful with mechanical damage when drying and handling while wet.

<br><br>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a><br>

<a href="http://www.richard-vanek.eu/">www.richard-vanek.eu</a><br><br>

It has been while I was writing in this thread but I only like to say those who thinking about using Foma 200 film:<br>

<b>I still use Foma 200 developed at 100</b>.<br>

It is already few years. I love it. <br>

I use to develop it in Paterson Aculux II as it went out from shelfs (now Aculux III is available) I switched to Fotospeed FD10. And I am getting even nicer results. Really amazing.<br>

<br>

Well you can read more about it at my <a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/article/films_and_developers/">page about my favorite black and white developer film combinations</a><br>

As well as you can see some <a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/experiment/204/">experiments I have done</a>

<br><br>

---<br>

Richard Vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a><br>

<a href="http://www.richard-vanek.eu//">www.richard-vanek.eu</a><br>

Francisco,

<br><br>

thanks for this. I actually did it two days ago and yes it also helped I think I had like 0.5 - 1 Diopter off.

<br><br>

And when I was playing with it (without reading manual) I realize that it effects how sharp I can see focus marks. So I set it to be perfectly sharp :-)

<br><br>

--<br>

Richard Vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.richard-vanek.eu/">www.richard-vanek.eu</a>

Hello everybody,

 

I have clean the glass on viewfinder and checked focus screen as well as mirror. Than I went to the near by place. I visit very nice person who was offering his F100 for sale.

I compare my viewfinder with his. I also had a chance to compare it with Nikon D200 and Nikon F5 as he owns them all.

 

Result? Viewfinder of my F100 is perfect and I must admit the main reason why I though it is bit cloudy, was simple dirt and greasy glass covering viewfinder and probably also that I looked at it at night.

 

Comparing D200 viewfinder with F100 just insured me that my F100 has bigger view (expected as different size of sensor/film) and is as clean if not cleaner than D200. D200 has a bit higher contrast and feels to have little warmer color cast.

 

So result: I proofed myself that my F100 is perfectly in order. Also get experience with Nikon Service and as last it showed me that I need to clean the basics first and than start looking around. I am glad I was able to compare my F100 to other one.

 

BTW: The situation when I couldn't see other reply to my original message where result of not fully refreshing cache of proxy when I looked at this thread from work. Now when I looking at it from home (no-proxy) I see all.

 

Thanks for your comments!

 

richard vanek

www.richard-vanek.eu

I have found guy near by with F100 and other person who is Nikon freak and has F4, F90 and some other cameras. I will meet both of them today, so I can see what is really wrong (or not) with my viewfinder.

 

-r-

Oskar,

 

these guys are gone now. All is now electro, digi. Good analog shop is not around me in range of 100km.

 

-richo-

Well I do not have dust, I only feel like viewfinder has lower contrast. Feels little milky not that sharp anymore.

 

BTW: I have got final answer from nikon service just now.

they told they can clean viewfinder but they can't say how much it will be as they do not know what all will need to be done to clean it.

They will charge anyway 36 euro even if they do not do anything.

 

I checked local store for B screen. It is 32 euro.

I may first check some newer F100 and see if it is real problem. You know I borrowed lately D200 and viewfinder there is bit smaller (of course) but much brighter and has more contrast than my F100

 

-richo-

michael,

 

I never did it. I do not want to do more damage. Do you know how to do it? I have little description in my F100 manual, but I do not have that tool they use there.

 

-richo-

I have feeling that viewfinder of my Nikon F100 needs some cleaning. The

contrast is not the best in it and I feel it is bit DIM. So I wrote e-mail to

Nikon Service point in The Netherlands. They reply very fast and even in

English. (I do speak Dutch, but writing is still a bit problem for me).

<br>

On my surprise, they seems to not read my email. So I explain again what I like

to do and they again answer in short time. But again I have feeling like they do

not want to do anything for me, even not read my email. Or simple they just did

not understand. I am attaching our email conversation. But I have no idea what

should I do. Any suggestions?

<br>

Maybe I simply need to find some other Nikon F100 around and compare the

viewfinders.

<br><br>

----<br>

<b>richo</b>:<br>

Dear Sir, please excuse me writing in English, but my written Dutch skill are

not on necessary level.

<br><br>

I would like to ask you about the price for cleaning my Nikon F100. Especially I

have feeling that viewfinder could be improved by cleaning.

<br><br>

I found on your web site only prices for digital cameras.

<br><br>

Thank you for your kind answer.

<br><br>----<br>

<b>Nikon Service</b>:<br>

Dear sir,

<br><br>

We don't have specially prices for cleaning a camera. The website tells you only

about cleaning a CCD (sensor) of a digital camera.

Why does the camera need to be cleaned?

<br><br>----<br>

<b>richo</b>:<br>

Well I use camera every day and it has already few years and there is

dust inside of film chamber, I could clean that myself as I always do, but I

have feeling that viewfinder is very cloudy. I believe it needs to be cleaned.

<br><br>

What kind of regular service do you do for F100 SLR?

<br><br>

Thank you for your kind answer

<br><br>----<br>

<b>Nikon Service</b>:<br>

If there are no problems with the F100 there's no need to let it cleaned

<br>---------------------------

<br>

Richard Vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.richard-vanek.eu/">www.richard-vanek.eu</a><br>

I am using a lot of Fomapan 400 and Fomapan 200. Never had problem with 200, but I get once a while same thing as you describe with Fomapan 400.

 

Interesting idea about fixing. Van you explain why this could couse this marks in a form of line?

Hello,

<br><br>

I thought maybe some of you could be interested. For some time now I do not use

my Olympus equipment and so I offer it for sale. Please take a look for

description of <a

href="http://www.photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=655597">Olympus

OM-2n,OM-2sp,Zuiko 28/50/85 in classifieds</a>.

<br><br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a><br>

<a href="http://www.richard-vanek.eu/">www.richard-vanek.eu</a>

Roger,

it is very difficult to judge based on some small jpg on screen. I think I can say with confidence that foma 200 is better film. Maybe just buy both and you will see. Prices now are following for 100ft roll.

foma 100 is around 20euros = 24 US$ end for foma 200 100ft roll is 23euros = 27US$

I did use foma films quite a lot. Foma 200 is great film giving very nice tonal scale. I develop it different developers. I also use foma 100. As I sue Paterson Aculux 2 as my standard developer I did use it also for these foma films. I am buying 100ft rolls from <a href="http://www.fotoskoda.cz/default.asp?ids=356&idm=312&lang=eng">Foto Skoda</a> which is very close to Vaclav square and close to Foma shop in Prague. Exact address is Vodi

kova 37, Praha 1. Usually I find prices in this shop better than in Foma shop. I believe you can order through internet and pick it up in shop. But web shop is only Czech language. Maybe their email can help. That way you can ensure that they will have what you want when you are there. BTW: I am only customer there so no personal contacts :-)

<br>

<br>

Some examples using Foma films you can see on my web site:<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2003-68-24/">Fragile Splendor (foma 100)</a><br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2003-68-19/">Frozen water (foma 100)</a><br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2004-13-20/">Wooden sticks (foma 200)</a><br>

<br>

<br>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com">www.piskoftak.com</a>

Tuomo,

 

you can order Paterson Aculux from www.speedgraphic.co.uk 1 liter for 11euro plus 6.5 postage that is around 18 euro. With dilution 1:9 you need 30ml for on roll of 35mm film that makes 33 rolls for 55 euro cents each.. They delivery fast and always good service. I use the from The Netherlands. I love Fuji Neopan and Aculux 2 combination. Great tones, sharpness, one shot use and convenience as it is liquid.

 

--

richard vanek

www.piskoftak.com

Tuomo,

<br>

I use Acros 100 and Neopan 400 and 1600 for all I use Paterson Aculux2. I like the results very much. you can see detailed description with times and agitation in <a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/article/films_and_developers/">my article</a>. There you can see also examples of photographs developed that way.

Paterson Aculux2 I am ordering from UK. I am based in Europe so it is fast and cheap.

<br>

<br>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a><br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/shop/">Christmas shopping until the end of November</a>

Why not buying it in bottles. I am doing it for years, it is cheap and ok. For 500$ you can buy about 800 liters enough for at least 2400 rolls so about 20 years and you can save your energy costs.

I assume you want to stay with Rodinal, but in case you are willing to try something else I can sugest you Paterson Aculux 2 with this film. It is amazing how great tonal scale you can get with this combination.<br><br>

For more details and examples you can look at my article <a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/article/films_and_developers/">Films and Developers</a> under section Normal sensitivity film.

<br><br>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>

I was fighting with Fuji Acros in different developers and at the

end I manage to get great tones with my favorite Paterson

Aculux 2 only trick was to expose it at 50ASA. At I have got

alternative to Kodak 125PX but with much smaller grain.

<br>

Following description is for bright sunny day. Results from my

experiments will be still updating these notes, but for now, this

is a formula how to get great tonality from Fuji Across.

<br><br>

 

<b>Developing procedure</b>

<br>

<br>

Fuji Across 100@50 ASA in Paterson Aculux 2 1:9 @20C 9:00min<br>

dev : first minute 15sec nonstop inversions rest of time each minute 1 inversion<br>

<br><br>

Examples:<br>

<ul>

<li><a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2005-22-01/">lienka</a>

</li><li><a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2005-22-13/">swing chains</a>

</li></ul>

<br><br>

--<br>

Richard Vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>

Take a look at Fomapan R 100<br>

http://www.foma.cz/Upload/foma/prilohy/F_pan_R_en.pdf<br>

<br>

---<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>

<p>

Maybe you should use Fomapan R instead of Ilford FP4+. Fomapan R is positive b&w film. Or maybe I am mistaken and you talking about something else.

</p>

<br>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

www.piskoftak.com<br>

Try here http://www.unicircuits.com/shop/ good service nice person great prices good options for delivery!

John,

<br><br>

Looking at jpg is one thing looking at print here is another. Well pity you can't come over, but you have to try it anyway. I mean use film as you wish and see, you need to do it anyway your water is surely different than mine and your hand agitates differently than mine and our taste is also different I guess :-)

<br>

I only wanted to show you what is my results and for pushing Neopan by 2 stops I am happy with result. I would be really interesting to see some decent low light shots with Neopan 400@1600 with Emofin. <br>

One thing I do not like on Emofin is terribly reactive. What I mean if I drop it on floor I immediately made mark there same on table. It never happen to me with Xtol or Aculux2 which I am using for years.<br>

<br>

---<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>

John

<br><br>

I exposed Neopan 400 @ 1600 use it in day light on sharp winter sunny day. It looks great, take a look here:

<br>

<ul>

<li><a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2004-93-28/">first</a></li>

<li><a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2004-93-32/">second</a></li>

</ul>

<br>

I develop it exactly as it is described at Emofin package for 30sec agitation.<br>

You mentioned you use it for night/low light shots can you tell me how do you develop this combination and what your results looks like?

<br>

---<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>