andrew_buckley1

Hello

I have a question about metering for transparencies using a Gossen

Lunasix 3 for night and low light shooting. I should mention that I

have burnt no film at this point.

I am a new to medium format user, having extensive experience of 35mm

with Canon EOS 1nHS/1vHS setups. I was comparing readings from the

Gossen against the 1vHS in spotmeter mode last night in darkness

under street light conditions and noticed that the Gossen appeared to

overexpose by between 1.5-2.5 stops in comparison to the reflected

spotmeter of the 1v.

My question is a simple one, if I were to apply either reading to the

RB67, which is likely to provide me with the correct exposure bearing

in mind the limited latitute of Provia F or Fuji Tungsten

transparency film and shooting in similar conditions?

Many thanks for all responses!

Andrew

Thanks all, this is good news as Jessops were quoting me GBP 90 fro the Mamiya version, brand new.

Best Wishes

Andrew

Just bought myself a second-hand RB67 Pro-S and was wanting to know

what sort of remote cable I would need for shutter release and mirror

lock-up. Is there a universal cable release that will fit this or

will I need a bespoke Mamiya product. I'm a UK resident, so if

anyone has ideas of stockists and approx prices, preferably second-

hand, I would appreciate it.

Many thanks in advance

Andrew

If you have used a 1nHS before and are happy with the functionality that the E1 provides then this may be a good choice. I bought a 1vHS second-hand and also have 3 x 1nHS and was very happy with their handling. My only initial criticism of the HS 1n was that it lacked the main dial capability in portrait position. Inevitably you work round the limitations of the kit you have! However the E2 has the added functionality already mentioned as well as a main dial. Switching between the 1n's and the 1v I really notice this lack of main dial Therefore, on balance I would suggest that the E2 is the better. Also with 8 x AA batteries it is capable of 6 frames a second.

Hope this helps

As the previous answer suggests there is no difference apart from the provision of the PB-E2 drive as standard. However this does change the handling of the camera. For instance the frame rate increases to 6 frames/second with 8 x AA batteries in the PB-E2 whilst with a Ni-Cad battery this further increase to 10 frames/second...with the standard 1v it is around 3 frames/second.

Also with the PB-E2 you get increased functionality in the upright portrait position with the provision of a main dial, exposure lock and focus point reset , multi-spot FEL and of course shutter release.

The downside of course is the camera is heavier, increasing in weight from c 850g to around 1350g(from memory).

If you have the option go for the 1vHS version, the upright functionality itself makes this for me and I find the extra weight with 8 x AA batteries also makes the camera more stable in the hand.

Hope this helps

Andrew

With regard to batteries with the PB-E2 attached, you can use the Ni-Cad combination or 8AA batteries. I think that the former gives the maximum frames /second at 9-10 whilst the AA batteries increase this to 6 frames/second.

Hope this helps

Andrew

Have just had my first serious shoot over a 3 week period with a 1vHS. Also in the kit bag were 2 1nHS and one 3 with PB-E2 booster. I shoot B&W solely and without having printed anything as yet the negs (HP5+ and FP4+) out of the soup ID11 (1:1) do look slightly thinner than those shot with the other bodies. No great shakes though as I expose for shadows a la Nocon. The experience will dictate a downrating of film in future also!

The shutter sound is the quietest of those three bodies and I would say the most reassuringly solid, as described above the German car analogy is a good 'un.

As for prices...I'm in the UK and currently UK dealers are selling from GBP 495 for the 1v upto GBP695 for the 1vHS in Exc++/Mint-.

Also for info the Iv has a button in the palm door C.Fn i think from memory which if clicked will give an indication of the number of rolls of film put thru the camera...one word of warning though, it registers from 001 to 999 only so if roll 1000 comes up it resets back to one digit.

Hope this is of some use

Andrew

The biggest plus for the 3 in IMHO is that it has the main command dial on the PB-E2 booster that the 1N with PB-E1 lacks.

Downsides however are that it is c97% viewfinder (1N is 100%) and has no dioptre (sp?) adjustment. If you take many tripod night/low light shots, then the eyepiece shutter that the 1N has may also be of use.

The 3 is considerably more noisy both with the booster and without and for my money I would say that the 1n is considerably better built.

The 3 however has a more advanced meter system and also ECF.

A tough choice if any of the above are important. I have had a 3 for about 12 months and have owned 3 1NHS bodies for the best part of 5 years.

Personally i would go for the 1N for build quality and 100% viewfinder, but secondhande many pros changed from 1n to digital without the step up to 3/1V and that means that you need to be sure of the life the 1N has had.

Hope this helps

Andrew

Thanks for the responses, duly noted.

Left home less than 10 days ago and have shot in the region of 50% of the stocks of HP5 that I had brought with me, so figured that I perhaps needed a backup plan!

Much appreciated!

Andrew

Does anyone know of a good value supplier of Ilford Black and white

film in central Florence.

Also the same thing but in Venice...?

Many thanks in anticipation

Andrew

For whatever reason 7dayshop.com has removed all EF lenses from its website now, so whilst they were the cheapest in the UK they are not supplying currently...think some threads below have given specifics.

Cheers

Andrew

http://www.apertureuk.com/New-Can.htm

Aperture say they have this in stock at GBP490...check out the above

Andrew

Would recommend trying to get hold of this online...unfortunately some of the 'pro' stores in the UK tend to add a premium to usual high street/web prices and are therefore very close to UK SRP...suspects include LCE Soton and also the aforementioned York cameras, both of whom I have used before but I would not recommend York for their surely and arrogant attitude. On the other hand Tony at LCE Soton is extremely helpful and I believe that they may price match from advertised prices.

Check out this link for a number of websites...

http://www.ukcamera.co.uk/towns/websites.htm

Hope this helps

Andrew

Had a similar issue with a secondhand 1vHS and was able to get replacements from a UK Canon Pro-Dealership at GBP2 per cover. Would therefore suggest a similar store in your own locality or the big two or three that are mentioned on this site based in New York.

Hope this helps

Andrew

Russell

I own both In's and a 3 and would suggest that you go for the In's.

If money is an issue and being a student when is it not, then it seems a no-brainer to me.

Prices of 1nHS bodies in exc++/Mint- in the UK are currently around about the GBP400 mark, the same as standard 3's. Also as the 3 is a current production camera it means that accessories are higher priced also. For instance Macro ML3 for B type cameras (1n etc) currently go for around about GBP120 whilst the corresponding Macro Lite for a 3/1v go second hand for in excess of GBP 400.

Also the eyepice shutter and 100% viewfinder make this a simple choice for the 1n...

ECF for many 3 users is a useless gimmick, you probably know that from using your 5 and if flash synch speed is also an issue then the decision is made for you!

Hope this helps

Andrew

I have used a 200 2.8L with 1.4x and 2x convertors quite successfully. However this combination would be much lighter on the day than a 100-400mm and I would suggest you consider the weight factor. The other consideration is shutter speed. Any turbo-prop aircraft taken with a shutter speed of above 1/125 will stop the blades and create quite an unnatural look. Therefore the two issues combined whilst panning may be problematic.

Hope this is of some help!

Hello All

Have been shooting B&W for the past few years but would like some

advice on shooting transparencies in low light and at night.

I understand that the newer pro Fuji emulsions have good reciprocity

characteristics, but what are they like for temperature(I understand

Provia is 'cold') and vibrancy/saturation.

Will be shooting MF on Mamiya RB67 Pro S.

TIA

Andrew

Should say that the store that i saw it in was the Bournemouth High Street Store.

I wonder if this is just policy to ge rid of the high end film cameras across the country. It seems strange that this should follow on from the EOS 3 markdown whilst as a for instance the EOS33v is still being sold at GBP429. For my sake there are crossed fingers aswell because the larger city stores sell the 1V at GBP1279...now if that came down to half price...!

Just a heads up for anyone in the market for an F100 in the UK

Dixon's are currently getting rid of their demo stock at GBP 499.

They have done similar with Canon EOS 3 (i picked one up for GBP 399).

Andreas

I have a 335 and a 45 holster bag.

With the 335 I am able to get three 1nHs bodies and upto seven lenses with careful arrangement...(20mm 2.8, 28 1.8, 35 2, 50 1.4, 100 2, 135 2L, 200 2.8l + 1.4x and 2x convertors). However i do use the additional delta pockets on each end for filters and film. As others have said it is a great bag that will last for decades. I have had mine about 7 years now and it is beginning to get that lived in look. However for everyday use i tend to use the 45 holster bag. Again with arrangement i can manage two bodies and three primes. This is a much better combo for portability.

The only criticism I would have of the 335 is the weight distribution problem. It is an over the shoulder bag, unless you buy the optional extra straps to convert to a backpack, and if you have anything akin to a bad back this could prove problematic for you.

I have had and it did/does!

Hope this is of some use

Other points to mention are that the PB-E1 does not have a command dial and focus point selection button, only the AE lock.

I have 3x 1nHS bodies and 1 x 3 body with PB-E2 booster and i believe that the viewfinder in the 1n is bigger and I guess because I have been using the 1n's for longer I prefer their feel. I think that the 3's 97% viewfinder does not do it any favours in comparison to the 1 series either. Also you will find that it is fractionally louder than a 1 series film body, with booster. Without booster it sounds as if it has a problem!

In the UK you can pick up mint examples of 1Vhs bodies for GBP 800, so if the money is not a major issue I would go for that...at some stage should I feel the need for a 1vHS the 3 will be traded.

Hope this helps

Hi All

Can anyone recommend a store selling good value black and white film

(Ilford) in Paris, please?

Also any recommendations for second hand stock Canon EOS?

Many thanks in anticipation

Andrew

For all UK customers a heads up on prices of EOS 3 bodies in Dixons.

Not sure that this is just local economics at work but have seen the

3 priced at GBP399.97 in Dixons highstreet store in Bournemouth. It

seems that they are selling there remaining professional body stock

off cheap as there is no longer any demand. Interestingly the 30

body is in the same store proced at GBP30 more expensive.

I have had this lens for about 5 years having upgraded from a 28-105 and would say that it is a very capable lens if you work within its considerable limitations.

First at both the 28 and 135 end the lens distorts considerable and you will see a distinctly unnatural curvature in you verticals...therefore would not recommend you use it for architecture work.

Second, it is soft until around f8 when everyhting seems to come together.

Third as has been remarked it is slow at the long end so if you are doing candids you can expext at f5.6 to have some major distractions in the background.

In my case i finally grew tired of these limitations and have replaced it with 20 f2.8, 28 f1.8, 35 f2.0, 50 f1.4, 100 f2.0 and 135 f2.0L, all second hand.

In that exalted company though it unfortunately doesn't stand up I'm afraid.

My advice get a 50 f1.4 or f1.8 and an 85 f1.8 or 100 f2.0 and consider something wider possible the 20 f2.8(considered by some to be on the soft side) or the 24 f2.8.

Best of luck

Andrew

Bob

Delta 3200 is infact a 1000 film that is pushed to 3200.

At 1600 the shots that i have taken with it, albeit in the open air during daylight hours have been acceptable at 10" x 8" print size with really nice grain.

Hope this is of some use

Andrew