david_myers2

<p>Garrison, thanks for the ideas. I will check this evening when I am home.</p>

<p>David</p>

<p>No ideas?</p>

<p>David</p>

<p>I was reading an article by ron reeder about adding "flare" to an image -- not flare like the flare filter, but more of a diffusion effect that bleeds light into black and vice versa. He suggests opening an image, and on a mac pressing "option-apple-tilde" to make the selection. When I do this, nothing happens. What am I missing?</p>

<p>I am using OSX10, CS4 PS, and working in b&w with a grayscale image and 16 bit.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance, </p>

<p>David</p>

Good point. I checked it on the D80 and it was fine.

I just acquired a D300 and while it seems to work fine with a number of lenses, I cannot get it to focus at infinity with my 20/2.8 AF lens. I

can get it to work within about 10 feet, but beyond it will not auto focus. Any ideas on what might be wrong? I should also note, that when I focus manually, I can get the dot to appear, indicating it is in focus.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

David

Get closer! Look at Nick Brandts' work for a wonderful example of what one can do with

"short telephoto lenses." You are basically saying that a 300 * 2 *1.5 = 900 is not long

enough. use your legs.

Are there curves or adjustments to curves I should consider when using QTR with

Ultrachrome inks on my Epson 2200 when using papers such as PhotoRag?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

David

But, my experience (limited) is that Bridge in CS2 will not open a NEF file created from the D80.

 

David

What was Patrick's hint about matching the Lenswork look? I missed this.

 

David

Be sure to check out Nick Brandt's work before you go -- all done with a P67.

 

I was on safari several years ago -- canoe and jeep. Used a 300/2.8 and bean bag from the jeep and with a 1.6 extender. Be sure to keep something on your lap so that you can quickly place the body and lens in right after a shoot so that you keep dust to a minimum between shoots. Plan to shoot at high shutter speeds when using the long lenses.

 

David

For the past 4 years I have been using IP with the Ultrachrome inks in an Epson

2200 to print B&W. I am starting wonder if I can squeeze more quality out of

hardware by shifting to Cone's K7 inks with QTR. Has anyone compared the two

approaches? FYI -- I tend to print on PhotoRag.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

David

Andy, thanks for the ideas. I don't mind a small body count :) More seriously, other than the usual concerns when walking about any city, should I be more concerned about the area of town you suggest?

 

David

I have one day free while on business travel in London. I have been to the city

before, so I am not particularly interested in the typical tourist sites.

Instead, I am looking for interesting places to work on my urbanscape portfolio

(think Doug Etheridge, Gibson, ... ).

 

If it helps, I will be there May 12.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

David

can you help us read this some? For example, with a 110/2.8 and the no 1 tube, what does the exposure compensation element tell us? It is hard to read on a screen. It almost looked like I should reduce exposure and not increase it, which makes no sense.

I would try to "burn in" in the image either by selcting the area and using curves, or by setting a layer to softlight with 50% gray fill and then using the bursh tool to burn. You can get most if not all of the mottled look out using this approach -- happens in my work all of the time.

 

And, would you mind telling us (1) how you set the lights for the image and (2) how you achieved a wonderful glow to the skin?

Hey Soma:

 

About 6 months ago I gave up on my P67 system and swithced to the RZII. For my shooting, I

started with a 65 and a 110, and several backs. I don't regret the switch at all. Just finished

a small project in Texas and loved using the system. No problems so far.

Not sure. I was worried about opening the back. But, maybe that is my best bet. That was my first guess.

In the midst of scanning a bunch of negatives today, my SP120 just stopped. There is nothing going on in

it -- no noise, no light, nothing. What should I look for? Who fixes these?

 

David

I am using Foliolink and very pleased with the service.

 

David

You might try ProPhoto in DC. They did fine getting the range finder aligned and a CLA for an

M4-2.

 

David

I am using the ImagePrint 6.0 RIP and I am curious about what is the best space

to work in for B&W. I scan all of my negatives (b&w negs) and have generally

converted the space to Gamma 2.2, but I see others are using Dot gain of 20%.

What is the difference? I keep all of my editing at 16 bits and use CS2.

 

Thanks in advance for the clarification and suggestions.

 

David

Thanks for the info. Now the manual makes sense!

 

David

Okay, I too just purchased a used rz67 pro ii from KEH. In reading the manual

they indicate that to place the lens on the camera the shutter must be cocked.

When I move the shutter cocking pins in the direction of the red dots, the pins

immediately slip back to the green dot. Should the pins "lock" into position at

the red dot? The manual, as far as I can tell isn't clear on the subject.

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

David

I recently made some images with my P67 with very strong backlighting

and noticed that there was a small amount of light bleeding on to the

part of the film surrounding the normal image -- the boarder on the

negative. It was very consistent and the bleed started from the

image and not from the outer edge of the film, which would suggest it

is not a light leak. Has anyone seen this before?

 

David

Buy a RIP, such as ImagePrint 6.0. It allows you to make great b&w prints with the matte papers on a 2200.

 

David