ting_kun_au_yong

<p>Thanks Leland,<br>

I am the same person as you are, I always use distilled water to make my developer. The problem is that I have never seen the stock A to be oxidised so fast in my previous batches. This summer is very hot, often over 90F. Could this cause the rapid change?</p>

 

<p>Dear all, I made up abatch of stock solutions of PMK pyro about 2 years old. I keep the solution in 2 glass bottles, one full and the other 1/2 full. I am using the 1/2 full bottle first. Recently, I noticed that the negatives that I developed were thin. Then I found that the stock solution A is darker than usual with small precipitates. The other full bottle stock A remains clear (slightly yellow). I tried to develop with the clearer stock A solution and the negative looks fine. I know that the PMK stock solutions have very long shelf life. I would like to know what has happened to my solution. I have been using PMK for almost 10 years and have never seen these before. My last batch that I used was kept for almost 3 years and had no problem. Could this be contamination. In addition, the clear stock A that I have also shows some precipitates. Is this normal?<br>

Thanks.</p>

I had a half box of Endura F that I kept in my darkroom turned yellow after a few weeks. Perhaps the humidity or the chemicals in the air caused the problem.

Kodak is a strange company. I know from their web site that they'll have a new paper in mid 08. But I do not know the detail, such as sizes available.

I am in Hong Kong. Kodak agent here only supplies 8"x10" format. I do not know any photo supplies in Asia that ship to other countries. BH photo is reliable and I deal with them many times before.

Thanks for the replies. I think they will be sent by air and hopefully will not be exposed to excessive heat. But I am surprised that the Endura paper can be left in room temp. for a year without deterioration. It can be quite hot in summer time in Australia.

Dear all, I am planning to ship some Kodak Supra Endura paper from BH photo

because there is no such supply in my place, except the 8x10 sheets. I am in

Asia and it would take about 2 weeks to ship. Would there be any deterioration

of the paper, which is kept in original package, during the shipment? Also, how

long would it last without change if I keep them chilled, say around 5 degree

Celcius?

I have contacted Ilford Australia Office 2 months ago. They confirmed that Jensen was no longer their agency in Hong Kong. So films, papers and chemicals on the market here are just stocks left. That's why you cannot buy HP5 120 format or may be XP2 anymore. Also you cannot order Ilfochrome materials. Ilford's products are good. I wish that they can find a new agent ASAP despite the market is further weakened by SARS.

Dear all, I have some questions about the PMK developer.

1. Hutchings, in his book, recommended a net density of 1.6 at zone

VII, does he meant when printing on a condenser of diffusion

enlarger. Is the net value measured by a blue filter and above b+f?

2. For a zone VII density of 1.6 and zone I of 0.1, the CI will be

greater than recommended by Kodak, 0.56. Is it due to the color mask

effect of the dye?

3. A even more silly question, should the emulsion side of the film

facing the light source or the probe when performing a transmission

densitometry?

 

Thanks,

Thanks for all the respones.The scans impressed me greatly. I will get the PMK and Book of Pyro from PhotoFormulary and try it myself. I think using a new porion of developer at the mid of developing process during drum processing can also solve the problem of rapid oxidation.

Anyway, anybody use WD2D+ before?

Thanks How about the grains. I heard some people said in this forum that the grain size is larger and not siutable for smaller format e.g. 35 mm but some said the dye cover up the grains. So what is true? Acutally, most of the discussion are on large format films. Also, where can I find the developing time for different films. I use Jobo CPP2 with continuous agitation.

I am thinking of starting to use Pyro based developer. I will print

the films on both VC papers and graded papers. I have to some

questions to ask:

1. The best known pyro based formula is PMK, has anybody tried the

WD2D+ formula which has a yellow-orange mask and is said not to

affect the filter value as the greenish dye of PMK. What is the end

results of the pictures when compared with PMK?

2. Is it OK to use Ilford Hypam fixer with PMK or WD2D+ ?

3. I read some posts here and some said that PMK has larger grains

while some said finer grains. I use 35 mm and 120 films. What is the

truth?

 

Thanks