didjiman
-
Posts
111 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by didjiman
-
-
Are there any comprehensive list of films and developers? I am
thinking in terms of each film, a scale ratings of characteristics
like grain, sharpness, ease of scan, pushability etc. and similar
charts for the different developers.
Thanks.
-
The Babelfish translation is pretty bad, but sounds like this adapter can only use a couple Contax lens, not the full range, due to possibly interference with the RF cam.
-
I sold one for about $1350-$1400. I forgot how much... It's a great lens for what it does.
-
At least 20% off the current prices at photovillage.com or cameraquest.com?
-
WHat's wrong with this forum that people can't hold a civil discussion? No one is arguing for ultra USM and pixel peeping. Probably 70% of my pictures are taken at 1.4 to 1.8. So what? May be weeds are bad subject to show "things in focus," I can accept that. I am just saying that "flat lighting" is probably not the reason.
-
Charles, I think you are missing the point. You kept saying flat lighting etc., but that's not the problem. The problem is, at least for me, and I believe for others, is that we don't see ANYTHING in focus. A scanner should be able to pick it up and the JPG should look sharp. So if you are seeing that in your prints, then probably something about the scanning process is not quite right. Keep in mind that scanning almost always introduce some amount of softness so you should a little Unsharp Mask to "tighten" it. Not too much of course..
Good luck and thanks for sharing.
-
Isn't the older lens, e.g. the Summar, known to be less contrasty? I wouldn't use them in low flat light situations in that case...
-
The logic breaks down when the price is so high that the sales suffer. In other words, is Epson selling all the R-D1s it can make? If so, it's not overpriced. If yes, then it is.
-
It's funny how some of these "reviews" continue to pen the R-D1. Granted that a small number of owners do/did find problems or were not happy enough with the cameras that they sold them, but generally from the people that actually own and shoot with the camera, it's a good camera overall. It's not perfect, but it certainly is one fine camera.
-
Forget about the comparison to 35 Cron, do the pictures look sharp? I believe it is more difficult to make a sharp 90/2 than 35/2, and of course the RF focusing must be very accurate.
I have not made "pixel comparison" with my ASPH lens, but my 90/2AA is very sharp @f2. No problem with making 11x14 prints
-
He posted in the Leica User Group about a week ago that he was just having ISP problems or something...
-
Bun Bun the Carnivore?
-
Whatever you do, do NOT use the mod->"Grayscale." Google the subject and you should find some good tutorials on the web. At the minimum, try Adjustment->"Channel Mixer," and then click on the "Monochrome" checkbox. You can then adjust the amount in each "color." Usuaully when the total adds up to around 100%, it will look the best, but experiment around.
-
Within certain limitations, the R-D1 is a great camera.
RAW buffer is a minor concern. However, I shoot only RAW and has never bump up to the limit. Remember, this is a RF, how fast does one usually shoot on an M?
To me, the 3 biggest "problems" are:
1 - PRICE, but then again, it is the only game available if you want to use your M lens. Leica Digital M, if and when it available (at the earliest, early 2007) will probably be at least $6000-$7000. Think about that.
2 - It's best for using 28/35/50 for an equivalent view of ~42/53/75.
3 - It's slightly larger than an M and slightly louder. Nevertheless, it handles very well.
The focus issues seem to be mainly due to a) early reviewers do not know how to focus RF, b) spotty Quality Control on some cameras, and c) short RF baselength has limitations on focusing things like 90/2 @F2 etc.
-
Stephen W. wrote:
> Richard,
>
>I did mention the 35 asph-lux (modern) with some results having the look (sometimes), no?
Yes, of course the big problem is what the look is. Judging from the above, I don't think there is an agreement!
-
OK, this picture
http://www.dragonsgate.net/pub/richard/walkabout/EPSN0218.jpg
is in fact taken with the 50/1.4 ASPH which suppose to be ultra sharp and ugly bokeh and no character and all that.
It has one of the nicest 3-D look I have ever seen. FWIW. BTW, this picture was taken on the R-D1.
-
I really like whatever effect you call on this picture:
http://www.dragonsgate.net/pub/richard/walkabout/EPSN0218.jpg
Let me know if you like it and I will tell you the lens. The answer will surprise you given all the answers so far.
-
Just sold mine to help fund the 50/1.4ASPH. It is a sweet lens if you can handle the slow speed!
-
One of my friends has a 1Ds. He takes lots of pictures and print them out at 13x19. They look great.
I just started to print my portfolios at 11x14. Mostly Provia 100F/400F scanned at 4000 DPI with M7 and 50 'cron. The quality is also amazing. The look is different but I don't think anyone can say the 1Ds prints "beat" my prints badly.
-
Alex - since the rangefinder base is longer than any Cosinas, including the R2A/R3A, even if they adapted the CV, it still has a different RF.
-
Lucien, it's pretty clear that the teaser pics they showed so far are from a 3D model and not a real prototype of anything like that.
And the only conjecture that it's digital is based on the "fat" hinge.
Here's hoping though. We will find out on Monday I guess. If it is a digital RF, with Zeiss reputation and if it comes out "soon," I will for sure take out my credit card in a hurry.
-
I think you'll like the lens! I believe Skopar and Nokton, Heliar etc. are all old names trademarked and used by the original Voigtlander. Not sure about the origin of those names. Zeiss seems to use -gon (biogon, hologon etc.) Leitz uses emari, summi- (summicron, summilux etc. etc.) so I guess Voigtlander has its own unique naming style and scheme.
-
There seems to be a lot of JPG conversion artifact. Would be interesting to see a larger sized pic
-
If there are direct point sources or reflection right in the pictures, it is hard for a lens not to flare. I believe the Noctilux is a bit better, but it can only do so much.
Scanning B&W film via a Nikon LS-4000 vs. a Minolta Elite 5400
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
Conventional wisdom says that a film scanner such as the Nikon
Coolscan does not scan B&W film well because the scanner light source
acts like the light source in a condenser enlarger ("collimated" light
source) and the B&W film's silver grains scatter the light and thus
the scans are more contrasty and the grains "clump" together. There is
a nice diagram illustrating the light source differences (condenser
vs. diffuser) on this web site:
http://www.normankoren.com/scanners.html. One important note is that
this site does not present any photos supporting this claim.
http://www.scanhancer.com/ sells a diffuser plate for the Minolta
Multipro scanner and they make a similar claim that the Multipro with
their Scan Enhancer (or the Minolta Elite 5400 with the Minolta's own
grain dissolver) makes less grainy scans, especially on color scans.
I have been using the Nikon LS-4000 scanners for over 3 years,
scanning well over 300 rolls of slides. I process my own slides on a
Jobo rotary processor and bulk scan the whole strip of 36-38 exposures
using the Nikon bulk film adapter. For the past six months, I have
been gradually doing more and more B&W, and playing with different
film types and developers. Again, the films are developed in the Jobo
and then scanned in. While searching for the web for scanning info, I
found the sites mentioned above. Since my local camera shop rents the
Elite 5400 per day basis, it is a cheap way to find out whether the
conventional wisdom is right or not. I use Vuescan to drive both
scanners, setting the film type to B&W, "Generic" vendor and selecting
"White Balance." Personally I do not find Vuescan's user interface
particularly friendly or intuitive, but it does produce good scans.
The short answer is that I see no noticeable contrast differences. The
so called "clumping" effect due to the collimated light sources is not
apparent at all. I have tested it on Delta 400, HP5+, Efke 100, and
Tri X, processed (mostly) in Xtol, and a few in Rodinal and D76. Some
of the rolls were pushed but most are used in the box speed. The light
scattering effect does show up in the Nikon scans as being more dusty.
Unfortunately, you cannot use the automatic dust removal system
(usually a technology called ICE) built into these scanners on B&W
film as ICE uses the IR channel to detect dust and scratches. So it is
worthwhile to keep your negatives clean. In fact, whether due to its
higher resolution or other factors, the Minolta scans seem to be more
grainy.
(All photos are not processed except with an USM of 120%/1/0 since
scanners are known to soften the scans) The following is the engine
compartment of a working 1911 Pierce Arrow.
This is an Elite 5400 scan. The film is not held flat by the scanner
mechanism so notice the left and right edges are out of focus:
http://www.dragonsgate.net/pub/richard/scanner_tests/elite5400.jpg
100% crop:
http://www.dragonsgate.net/pub/richard/scanner_tests/elite_enlarged.jpg
The Nikon 4000 scan.
http://www.dragonsgate.net/pub/richard/scanner_tests/Nikon4000.jpg
100% crop:
http://www.dragonsgate.net/pub/richard/scanner_tests/Nikon_enlarged.jpg
Since the Nikon scan is 4000 DPI, the 100% crop is smaller than the
Elite's. Notice also the hair or dust on the Nikon enlargement :-(
In summary: while there are real benefits to the diffuser light source
on the Elite 5400 with the grain dissolver option (e.g. less dusty
scans), there is no discernable differences otherwise. If anything,
the Nikon scans seems less grainy and are sharper since the film is
held flatter. The Nikon is also significantly faster. However Minolta
just releases Elite 5400 II so it may have even the score in the speed
front. The Minolta is also cheaper than the LS-4000 or the LS-5000
replacement.