tien_le

<p>Charles,<br>

Thanks for your detailed analysis. I will adjust the developping time. How about the dilution H? Do you recomment using different dilution?</p>

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<p>I did see the picture there. It was slow, take sometime to load though.</p>

<p>This is my third rolls Delta400 in HC-110 dilution H(1/63) for 15 min at 22C<br>

Only one pics is decent because it is located at the outer of the reel. All other are very low detail I guess due to inadequate agitation.<br>

Should I keep this dilution and increase agitation by reverting the tank more often?<br>

Change to 1/32 dilution and use appropriate time to make sure the developer solution between 2 film surfaces don't exhausted?<br>

Increase time?<br>

How about grain? Is it typical of this Delta400 or it is excessive?<br>

Also how I can improve the clarity?<br>

Thanks for your advices.<br>

<img src="http://uyle.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/img322s.jpg?w=1280" alt="img322s" /></p>

<p>Mine looks exactly the same! I go further adding a small piece of clear tape under aperture ring to prevent the friction, chrome scratch when it collapse.</p>

It's the best LTM lens for the price. There are three versions of barel and I like the type 1 best with its solid brass chrome barel. There are also two versions of coating, purple and amber. The collapsible serenar 1.9 is also excellent. They all work perfectly in any LTM camera.

The Canon 50/1.8 is the excellent lens for LTM. The Canon Serenar 50/1.9 collapsible is also excellent and in my

own experience is sharper than Summitar.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2160/2219855528_aaf458775d_b.jpg

 

For a new user for LTM, you won't save money from buying a pre-war leica. I recommend the IIIF red dial. You have

better chance of having a properly functioning camera. With pre-war, not only the shutter may be deteriorated, silver

coating of the viewfinder could be problem too.

The Canon 50/1.8 is the excellent lens for LTM. The Canon Serenar 50/1.9 collapsible is also excellent and in my

own experience is sharper than Summitar.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2160/2219855528_aaf458775d_b.jpg

The Canon 50/1.8 is the excellent lens for LTM. The Canon Serenar 50/1.9 collapsible is also excellent and in my own experience is sharper than Summitar.

Retina IIIc or IIa with excellent German glass are under 100usd .

I know someone who currently have a blank top plate and he is highly skilled in engraving so he can make any number he wants! He would be delighted to see this news.

Anyone has used D40x or D40 for photo microscopy? I want to try taking

pictures through microscope but I concern about the mirror flap vibration

because this camera doesn't have the mirror lock up function.

What is the adapter I need for using this camera with a standard light

microscope?

Thanks

At least, I know many people like me who started in SLR then ccame to RF for the fun and nostalgic reason. I have hard time convince myself that RF is better than SLR but I prefer RF because it fits my shooting style. I like to shoot at slow speed 1/15- 1/50 which is difficult to do with a SLR.

Thank you Robert,

How about speed? What the 133X does? I see it on some card.

I need to buy a memory card for my D40x and I don't know what to look for.

Please tell me what I should buy. I just need something to hold about 100

pictures. What is the difference about brands and speed?

Thanks

Can anyone with a manual tell me D40x little button near lens mount does?

It is at about 7 o'clock position. How does it affect the use of non-AI lens?

Thanks

Hi all,

I heard so many good thing about this lens and I want to get this instead of

the kit 18-55 kit lens. The price is $150 more than the 18-55. Does it worth

it? I don't like the extending and wobling front element of the 18-55. This

will be my only zoom lens for this camera so I want a good one and won't be

worry about update it. For longer focal need, I will use a manual 85 or 105mm

fix lens. 18-70mm is about $250, is it still high? considering that this lens

is 3-4 years old.

Thanks in advance for your advises.

Thanks all for your replies. I actually went to three stores to check out this camera. All of them don't have lens and battery!!! I just have the non-AI lens today so I haven't had the chance to test it on the D40x.

I used to have a Fe2 and I indeed removed and replaced the split prism for a plain one for ease of focussing.

I saw one of my friends modify his Fuji S1 to use for Non-AI lens. He just filed the apperture level thin enough to void the large diameter of these lens. Of course there will be no AF and accurate metering but for classic leica M user like we are, it is good enough.

This time I'm interested in try out some early nikon lens, especially the single coat 50mm, 1.4 and 2.0.

What is your opinion on the different in single coat and multicoat lens. I intend to use them for B&W.

Thanks

Thanks Akira!

That's cool. I actually lean to D40X because of its light weight. can you explain the focus aid. Is it focus confirmation?

How about the viewfinder compared to a manual camera such as FE2? Is it bright enough for focussing?

Thanks

Hi all

I'm looking to buy my first DSLR though I have used manual SLR camera before.

This camera will be primarily used by my wife but I also want to use nikon

glass on them. Which camera I can use with non-AI lenses?

Thanks for your advises.

Peroxide bought from pharmacy kill all mold and spore in 10 minute. Rinse after with water, dry.

21.5 is a very small filter probably fit on minolta rokkor 45/2.8. Retina II, IIa and IIIc use 32mm filter.

Kevin,

I think your camera need some clean up and lubricant because the arm does not move freely so the spring can not pull the arm into contact with the lens stud. Give me your email, I got something maybe useful for you.

Most of the cameras and lens I have do not worth 100 bucks to repair or CLA. I fix them myself. Just done complete overhaul a Retina IIIs and I have a IIIC waiting in line. If you like old camera, you have to learn fixing it. I just send out a Nicca-3 for shutter replacement and CLA because it is beyon my skill but I will try to do it on my comming Minolta RF.

@Kevin Lui,

Please let me know what is your Retina RF problem, I may be able to help.

For this lens, it not worth send it out for service but you can fix it yourself as I did with my serenar 100/4 with the same problem.

The tiff focusing is caused by dryed grease. Turn the focus to close position, you may see some exposed helicoil. Just add some solvent, twisting back and forth to get it in. Then add some new grease. There will be mess of grease after but you can clean it with q-tip and solvent. Make sure your solvent is not too strong to harm the black paint inside. I use 100% ethanol. It slow but it work.

The front section can be removed by twist out to access inner element and diaphram blade for cleaning.

Hope this help.