jersey_emt

Any lens designed for the EOS system will work. Some older 3rd party lenses (namely Sigma) may need to be 'rechipped' but any new lens you buy should be fine.

Rechargeable NiMH batteries worked wonderful for me when I still had my F100. I used them in "cold" weather (= 25-30 degrees F) with no problems.

The discount for students is substantial.

I second the recommendation for the G2. It's a little pricier (I bought a refurbished model from B&H for $500) but the extra cost is well worth it.

 

Image quality is excellent. Manual exposure and focus is available. The manual focus is a pain, though...but that is my only fault with the camera. It can store photos in uncompressed RAW format, and there's plenty of software that can view and convert Canon RAW files.

 

It's a 4 megapixel camera, and 8x10's look excellent. 11x14 can even be done with a good, sharp image.

The oil on your fingers is now deposited on the shutter blade. The blade now weighs more than it originally did, so all of your shutter speeds will be off.

 

By 0.000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001%.

I don't take off the QR plate. I just twist the (tighly-attached)plate to open the back. Sometimes I have to re-tighten the QR plate, but it's a lot more convenient than having to take it off and put it back on after each roll.

Demo items have only been handled by people that don't own it (people that have treated it *very* well because they wouldn't want to have to pay for something they broke). It'll save you $100, and you sill should get the full manufacturer warranty (which you'll probably never need, it IS an L series lens).

Like all other Canon primes, they're both excellent. It's pretty hard to make a bad prime lens, especially those two focal lengths. Buy them and don't look back.

 

Of course, you can save a bunch of money by going with the 50mm f/1.8 instead of the f/1.4.

Absolutely wonderful. Great job!

My perfect setup for primes in that range would be a 24mm, 35mm, and a 50mm. Or if I couldn't afford all 3, the 24 and the 50.

3 years isn't that old for a film body. The F80/N80 has everything you'll need - autofocus, autoexposure, manual focus and exposure, a good frame rate, on-demand grid lines....

 

I'd say go for it, because even when Nikon does replace it with a new body, it'll still take pictures just as well as it always had.

The reason why your 18-35mm zoom focuses faster is normal. Wide-angle lenses usually focus faster than normal or telephoto lenses. The 'D' feature is used for metering only, not autofocus. If you buy a 50mm D lens, it will still focus with the same motor (the one inside the camera body), so it will focus at the same speed.

I really don't want to get in the middle of this, but Kevin did ask a question, and that question was answered (by the majority of repliers) respectfully and honestly. He wants to know what Sigma lenses compare favorably to similar Nikon glass, almost definitely in the interest of saving a crapload of money.

 

There really was no reason to rant about trolling. Your reply has absolutely nothing to do with the topic of this thread, and, in effect, YOU are trolling by taunting him to respond.

A Canon S9000 printer. Equal print quality to the comparable Epson, but prints faster and quieter.

Great link.

I've used both USA and Imported Tri-X and they are the same film and give the same results. I say go with the Imported at half the cost.

You say you were very comfortable with your F4s. Reliability and durability are definitely not a problem. Why go with something new instead of something you are already familiar with? If you were happy with the F4s then, is there any reason why you think you won't be happy with it now?

 

Not to bash the F100, which is a fine camera. But why not stick with equipment you already know inside and out?

You guys completely forgot to mention the "search and shoot" feature. When put on a special tripod with motors, it will move independently searching for perfect compositions with perfect lighting. All you have to do is push a button and a few hours later the camera will show up at your door with a CF card full of images perfect in every way.

Honestly...the lens you mention, and just about any 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 will perform well when stopped down to f/11 or so. But the shutter speeds you'll need to get a good exposure will be much to slow without a tripod. And forget about getting any fast-moving subjects...without a larger aperture getting a high enough shutter speed to freeze the action is possible only with incredibly fast film. If you already have a tripod, and plan on shooting static subjects from a distance, this lens should be adequate.

 

But why do you want a bigger zoom? So many people buy cheap long zooms simply because they want the huge zoom. You don't need an awesome range of focal lenghts at your disposal to make awesome photos. If you want a cheap, small, lightweight, yet *incredibly* sharp lens, look at the 50mm f/1.8 for less than $100. Sure the focal length is already covered by your zoom. But it will improve your photography greatly. Carry around only the 50mm for a while, and learn how to use it well. It'll be hard at first!! But you'll really learn a lot this way, and you'll be able to decide what type of lens you REALLY need a whole lot better.

Can you spare a bit more cash and buy a 28mm Canon prime?

Hmmm...sorta reminds me of the Powershot G2 problems in the past. A batch of G2's had a faulty part that shorted out and locked up the camera. Although with them, it happened all of a sudden with no previous "symptoms" like your underexposure problem.

I would get the 20-35 and the 70-200 as you had mentioned. But I would also pick up the 50mm f/1.8, because it's just so cheap (about $80) and it's one of Canon's sharpest lenses. Also keep the zoom you already have, it'll be a good one to have when you are traveling light and still want a decent range of focal lengths available to you.

I just recently bought a refurbished G2 from B&H for the same price ($500).

All entry-level cameras are basically pretty much the same. Don't worry about what brand you buy.

 

About the 1/4000 versus 1/2000 top shutter speed...you will rarely use anything higher than 1/1000 or even 1/500 unless you're using high speed film.

 

Go to a camera store and look at both. Play with the controls. Buy the one that feels better to you.

From what I've seen (never done any actual tests) digital generally has a dynamic range a bit better than slide film, but nowhere near negative film.