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jersey_emt

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Posts posted by jersey_emt

  1. I'm not sure I understand exactly what you want to do...you mentioned accenting the foreground and blurring the background. All a neutral density filter does is cut the amount of light passing through the lens. It is often used to make it possible to use long shutter speeds to photograph such things as waterfalls, with the water blurred smooth. If you want to flatten the contrast of a scene (for example, making it possible to have both detail in the foreground and the sky of a backlit sunrise/sunset), what you want is a graduated neutral density filter. But the screw-in variety of these filters are pretty useless in real life, because the transition occurs right smack in the middle of the filter. Unless you want the horizon in the center of every frame (which is usually not what you want), you need a rectangular filter and filter holder (like the Cokin system), so you can place the filter exactly where you need it.

     

    If this is what you want to do, your best bet would probably be to start off with a 2-stop soft-edge ND filter. Soft-edge filters gradually go from clear to gray, while hard-edge once have an abrupt transition that often doesn't look natural. If your needs dictate, then purchase additional filters, like the 1-stop or 3-stop.

     

    Then again, I'm not quite sure what effect you want to achieve...so the above paragraphs might not even apply :P

  2. The ETR-C is basically an ETR without interchangeable backs. All of the metered finders (AE, AE-II, AE-III) should work, but you will not get any use out of the extra features in the later models (like spot metering on the AE-III).

     

    Your other option (external meter) may work out better. The non-metered prisms in the ETR series are just slightly brighter than the AE prisms. Plus, you would gain the flexibility of an external meter. The only thing you'd lose would be the aperture-priority mode offered when you use an AE prism.

  3. I just had my third roll of film processed from my Yashica Mat 124G.

    In each roll, the film has fogged. Each mark usually occurs near the

    edges of film, but sometimes spreads all the way to the center. Each

    mark differs in size and shape.

     

    This is my first medium format camera, and I am trying to figure out

    the problem. Here are my thoughts:

     

    (1) Improper handling of the film. I loaded and unloaded the film out

    of sunlight, usually shaded by the top of my camera bag. It was

    placed in a closed compartment in the bag until development, where it

    was carried across the street to the lab. How careful must you be

    with 120 film? Is this sufficient, or is this the most likely cause?

     

    (2) Light leaks in the camera. I would not think a camera light leak

    caused this. Each fogged area differs in size and shape. Wouldn't a

    light leak be more consistent in the size/shape of the fogged areas?

     

    (3) A lab problem. I highly doubt this. It was processed at a pro

    lab, a member of Kodak's Q-LAB monitoring. Plus, the third roll was

    exposed and developed over a week later than the first two. If there

    were a problem with the lab, it would have already been noticed and

    corrected.

     

    So which scenario do you think is right? Or do you think something

    entirely different happened? I thank you for your thoughts.

     

    Justin Franks

    franks2@tcnj.edu

  4. I made a decision to give medium format a try, went into Adorama, and

    picked up a used Yashica Mat 124G in excellent condition.

     

    Any tips, or links to any good websites, on beginning with TLR's and

    medium format photography would be appreciated.

     

    Also, one more thing. On eBay, I consistently see this model camera

    going for $150-$200. I paid $300 for mine, which is in excellent

    mechanical and cosmetic condition. The only cosmetic flaws are some

    paint missing from the edges, and one of the pins on the bottom that

    keep the camera balanced on a flat surface are missing (The camera

    still stands straight however). All shutter speeds and apertures

    work, as well as the meter. The shutter speed/aperture selection

    dials, focus knob, and film crank all work smoothly. The inside of

    the camera is spotless - not a speck of dirt or dust anywhere. A

    strap and a lens cap were also included.

     

    Do you guys think I overpaid? I also received a 7-day money back

    guarantee, as well as a 100-day warranty with my purchase. Do you

    think $300 plus tax is too much for this camera?

     

    Thanks for your input!

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