jersey_emt
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Posts posted by jersey_emt
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The ETR-C is basically an ETR without interchangeable backs. All of the metered finders (AE, AE-II, AE-III) should work, but you will not get any use out of the extra features in the later models (like spot metering on the AE-III).
Your other option (external meter) may work out better. The non-metered prisms in the ETR series are just slightly brighter than the AE prisms. Plus, you would gain the flexibility of an external meter. The only thing you'd lose would be the aperture-priority mode offered when you use an AE prism.
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I just had my third roll of film processed from my Yashica Mat 124G.
In each roll, the film has fogged. Each mark usually occurs near the
edges of film, but sometimes spreads all the way to the center. Each
mark differs in size and shape.
This is my first medium format camera, and I am trying to figure out
the problem. Here are my thoughts:
(1) Improper handling of the film. I loaded and unloaded the film out
of sunlight, usually shaded by the top of my camera bag. It was
placed in a closed compartment in the bag until development, where it
was carried across the street to the lab. How careful must you be
with 120 film? Is this sufficient, or is this the most likely cause?
(2) Light leaks in the camera. I would not think a camera light leak
caused this. Each fogged area differs in size and shape. Wouldn't a
light leak be more consistent in the size/shape of the fogged areas?
(3) A lab problem. I highly doubt this. It was processed at a pro
lab, a member of Kodak's Q-LAB monitoring. Plus, the third roll was
exposed and developed over a week later than the first two. If there
were a problem with the lab, it would have already been noticed and
corrected.
So which scenario do you think is right? Or do you think something
entirely different happened? I thank you for your thoughts.
Justin Franks
franks2@tcnj.edu
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I made a decision to give medium format a try, went into Adorama, and
picked up a used Yashica Mat 124G in excellent condition.
Any tips, or links to any good websites, on beginning with TLR's and
medium format photography would be appreciated.
Also, one more thing. On eBay, I consistently see this model camera
going for $150-$200. I paid $300 for mine, which is in excellent
mechanical and cosmetic condition. The only cosmetic flaws are some
paint missing from the edges, and one of the pins on the bottom that
keep the camera balanced on a flat surface are missing (The camera
still stands straight however). All shutter speeds and apertures
work, as well as the meter. The shutter speed/aperture selection
dials, focus knob, and film crank all work smoothly. The inside of
the camera is spotless - not a speck of dirt or dust anywhere. A
strap and a lens cap were also included.
Do you guys think I overpaid? I also received a 7-day money back
guarantee, as well as a 100-day warranty with my purchase. Do you
think $300 plus tax is too much for this camera?
Thanks for your input!
Neutral Density Filter - which one to start with?
in Medium Format
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I'm not sure I understand exactly what you want to do...you mentioned accenting the foreground and blurring the background. All a neutral density filter does is cut the amount of light passing through the lens. It is often used to make it possible to use long shutter speeds to photograph such things as waterfalls, with the water blurred smooth. If you want to flatten the contrast of a scene (for example, making it possible to have both detail in the foreground and the sky of a backlit sunrise/sunset), what you want is a graduated neutral density filter. But the screw-in variety of these filters are pretty useless in real life, because the transition occurs right smack in the middle of the filter. Unless you want the horizon in the center of every frame (which is usually not what you want), you need a rectangular filter and filter holder (like the Cokin system), so you can place the filter exactly where you need it.
If this is what you want to do, your best bet would probably be to start off with a 2-stop soft-edge ND filter. Soft-edge filters gradually go from clear to gray, while hard-edge once have an abrupt transition that often doesn't look natural. If your needs dictate, then purchase additional filters, like the 1-stop or 3-stop.
Then again, I'm not quite sure what effect you want to achieve...so the above paragraphs might not even apply :P