My first 120 roll process - Success!

[spanky]

Well I finaly got around to processing my first 120 roll myself. I

made a pint of HC110 then diluted 1:7. I used distilled water for the

developer, stop, and fix. Film was Ilford Delta 100 which I developed

by the book for 6min with 10 second agitation every minute. Overall,

the negative (shot in bright afternoon sun) seemed ok, maybe some

shots looked a little dense in the highlights. Just after the final

wash I dropped the film. Fortunately it didn't land on the emusion,

but it picked up some dust on the shiny side. Any tips on the best

way to clean this? I had a little trouble getting the film onto the

reel. I am pretty good with 35mm so this was a new experience for me.

In fact I spooled the backing paper onto the reel while the film was

left in the corner of the changing bag! I thought it didn't feel like

film. Any tips on getting the paper off before I start to spool?

Most distressing was the two frames that overlapped. I had a double

exposure on another roll, plus a unexposed frame. If anyone here

shoots medium format would you mind zipping over to that forum and

clicking my post Film Didn't Advance With RZ. I'd like to get an idea

of what might be going on before I bring it in someplace to be

checked out. I posted also on the Mamiya forum and am awaiting a

response back from one of their techs.

Once this issue gets resolved, I'm really looking foward to trying

out new film/developer combos. Soon I'll be able to scan images and

post them up for your comments. Thanks for all the help so far.

Be Well...Marc

[jimvanson]

Well Done Marc! (and thanks for lettin' me know I ain't the only one that spools on the paper and leaves the film behind).

[chris_waller]

When loading 120 into reels, unroll the backing paper unitl you feel the beginning of the film. Tear off the paper up to that point and allow the remainder to roll up on itself as you load the film into the developing reel. Another way is to remove the backing paper completely, peel the adhesive tape off the paper and fold it over the end of the film. This makes the end of the film more rigid and easier to feed into the reel.

[raczoliver]

I had my first experience with 120 rollfilm a few days ago. I did not roll the backing paper, but I also had some troubles loading the film. Next time (tonight) I think I'll take the paper completely off before starting to load the film. Watch for "triboluminescence", cool stuff!

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=008Dmk

[conrad_hoffman]

120 is cool stuff. I unroll the paper until I get to the film. At that point it's obvious which is which. I just let the paper continue to roll up, as I roll the film on the reel. This is paranoia, but I am careful not to damage the paper, and save it. Why? When 120 film becomes hard or impossible to get, the limiting factor will be the special backing paper, not the film stock itself. Having a supply of backing paper and spools will insure continued viability of MF for a long time to come.

[pat_wilson1]

My first try I put it on backwards. All the film stuck together and it came out a almost-solid mess. I kept thinking "this doesn't feel right" but I unrolled and re-rolled it twice and it came out that way each time so I figured it had to be right, and the extra room was for 220...oops.

[nikos peri]

Congrats! My first roll was a success too. My routine now is to separate the film from the paper in the bag, and fold over the adhesive tape at the spool end, and start feeding that onto the reel. Before you get too cocky and confident, it was my second roll that brought me back to humility. Whatever you do, and I can't stress this enough... WHATEVER YOU DO... do NOT try to load your second roll onto a wet reel! You'll be in that changing bag for a very loooooong time.<p>

As an aside, but still in keeping with continuous lessons in humility: I've read about this all over the place and thought I was better, but I still managed to invert developer and fix yesterday; kiss your Venice cityscapes GOODBYE! (I did find out that my fixer was still good though ;-)

[jimvanson]

Nicola -- CLEARLY (pun intended) a drag -- BIG TIME -- that you got the developer & fix sequence reversed.<P>But you had the brains to figure out what you did wrong; that old bean counts for a lot!

[nikos peri]

Hehe, thx Jim... but the credit goes to me seeing my one-shot developer bottle full at the end of the run, while I had dumped my (perfectly good apparently) fixer down the sink. I now have a great roll of Tri-X I can use to measure base density with.

[brooklyn]

To carry this farther,

I too have stepped up to MF, and after 3 rolls now (2 failures due to a bonehead move by not loading the film right in the back) I have a question, How the heck do you get the 120 on to a metal reel??

I have tried COUNTLESS times with a practice roll in the daylight, and still cant get it on in the dark.

I would like to use the metal real and tank, mainly because it uses alot less chemicals.

 

Glen

[spanky]

Glen, it's really not much different then 135mm. In fact I dare say I found it easier then the first couple times I tried to spool 135mm. I too am using a steel Hewes reel. The edge of the film slips under the flexable metal bar that then presses the film down onto the other bar. Much easier then trying to fit the sprocket holes onto the tabs with 135mm. Once you feel that the film is secure in the reel, keep the reel on the surface you are working on and slowly turn it. While holding the film in your other hand, just let the spool take the film while you slightly bend it at the edges to help the film into the reel. Feel the sides of the reel to check for any kinks in the film. Once you reach the end of the roll, you should be good to go.

Cheers, Marc

[brooklyn]

Marc,

Thanks for the advice, it worked out great that way, thanks again.

 

Glen