MF without TTL flash - What does that mean?

[rick_falck]

I am a 35mm Nikon user now looking at medium format cameras. I would

primarily want to use it for landscapes. The Mamiya 7II and Bronica

RF645 look good, because of their size/weight. I would want to carry

the camera (hike/walk) for those occasional scenics and use my Nikon

for the rest. So size is a big issue.

 

However, neither have TTL flash. What does this mean exactly? If I

ever decide to take shots with one flash or try studio shots with

multiple flashes what would I have to do to get the correct

exposure? Would I need a separate light meter to measure and adjust

the flash(es) manually for each shot until I got it right?

 

What if I use a SC-15 PC cord to connect a Nikon SB-28 to the camera

and a SC-19 to connect a SB-27 to the SB-28? My guess is that I

would be in total manual mode.

 

Is mounting a dedicated flash on the camera's hot shoe any different

in functionality that using the PC connector?

 

If I want to use the SB-28 on my Olympus D620L digital camera with

the SC-15, I must shoot, look at the pic, and then adjust the manual

output of the flash until I get it right. Is this how non-TTL flash

would work with MF cameras that lack it?

 

TIA!

[richard_fateman]

You can still get automatic flash exposure with any

electronic flash which has its own sensor. The difference

with TTL is the sensor is not behind the lens of your camera, but on

the handle of the flash unit. For many situations the

result is pretty much the same as TTL. Multiple flashes

are a more elaborate situation.

 

Using the hot shoe or the PC connector should make no difference

for cameras without TTL sensors. The SB-28 presumably has no

sensor, but uses the one on the Nikon. Therefore it won't

work well with the Olympus.

Common automatic flashes that work on any camera include

Vivitar 283 or similar.

[peter_smith11]

Rick I've been using Nikon FMs for 20 years with Metz flash for most of that time. No TTL, just the flash sensor, and the results have always been good. The increased accuracy of TTL is not often actually needed, but wedding photographers swear by it. Most studio photography requires more power than on camera flash units can provide and the power can be accurately measured using inexpensive flash meters, the top of the range meters mostly have more fancy waistcoats not more accuracy.

 

It sounds like you'll be trying to use Nikon flash units. I long ago decided, after using my first Metz 45, that buying Nikon flash made as mush sense as buying Metz cameras. Each company is a leader in it's field, either cameras or flash. Not that landscape will require much flash.

[kevin_kolosky]

Rick

 

Even though I own and use a Hasselblad 503cw with ttl capability I have never felt the need to use ttl. I use a quantum x-2 which is ttl compatible but its built in sensor works so well that I figure why wreck a good thinkg.

 

Kevin

[markwilkins]

Contrary to what Mr. Fateman said above, there's an automatic

(labeled A) mode on the SB-28 that's very useful if you don't have

TTL flash control in the camera. However, it only works well if

flash is the primary illumination. Mixed lighting is a LOT easier

to deal with using TTL.

 

By the way, given the tight integration of Nikon camera bodies

with the generally high-quality Nikon flashes, I can't see why one

would go for a third-party alternative unless it's for lower price,

better recycle time, or more output.

 

Finally, if you are shooting with studio strobes, normally you

meter by triggering the strobe while holding a flash meter at the

subject's position. The flash meter indicates the aperture to

use. You can move the camera all you want and get a good

exposure, but moving the subject requires metering again.

[ellis_vener_photography]

If any of the cameras you are working with have hot shoe

triggerring , use the Nikon SC-17 cable instead. Now i don't

know about the digital camera but with the medium format

cameras setting the flash's metering system to A(utomatic) has

worked well for me with an SB-26.

[peter nelson]

<I>If I ever decide to take shots with one flash or try studio shots with multiple flashes what would I have to do to get the correct exposure? Would I need a separate light meter to measure and adjust the flash(es) manually for each shot until I got it right? </I><P>

 

Camera-mounted amateur flashes (e.g., Sunpak's and Vivitars) have their own autoexposure capability. Set the aperture on your camera to the desired setting and tell the flash what it is and you're all set.<P>

 

As far as studio flashes go, no one should be using studio flash without a flash meter.

[paul_whiteman]

In the studio, I never use on-camera flash or TTL modes. I shoot with Paul C. Buff and AlienBee flash units using a Hot Shoe mounted Quantum 4ti Radio Slave.

 

If you're outdoors shooting landscapes, I can't really imagine using flash at all unless you're shooting macro-scapes (making little stuff look big)or flora and fauna at dusk/sunrise. I would use a tripod and slower shutter speeds at higher ISO's. Fun stuff happens to colors when you do this anyway, so why bother with flashes outdoors? There are plenty of tripods out there that are light enough to pack around and sturdy enough to stay still during long exposures.

 

For studio flash, I meter the center of my shooting stage and use my arm and a string (for larger groups) to mark distance to subject at 3-5 different power settings.

i.e. From the center of my chest to the tip of my finger is about 3 feet, that is my lowest metered setting and is used for close ups, glamour lighting, and standing individuals. A group of 10 or more requires the flash to be moved away and the power turned up, so the string is used to assist in not having to re-meter by attaching to the front of the softbox and having the a person in the center of the group (or an assistant) hold the other end while the light is moved back until the string is fully extended. Power on the mainlight is marked according to distance as well: 1 being closeups, 2 being small groups, 3 being larger, etc. This system is both easy and FAST once your lights are accurately metered and marked - I use red nail polish on my string at 3 distances for anything farther away than individual head or 3/4 shots.