Starting Out With Ilford...

[matt_difran2]

I have decided to build my own darkroom. Before I order from B&H, I

would like to make sure that I have everything correct here. As far

as Film and Developers go here's what I am thinking of getting:

 

A few rolls of HP5+

 

1L Ilfotec DDX

 

Ilfostop

 

Ilford Rapid Fixer

 

My reasoning for choosing Ilford, is the availability of liquid

chemicals which seem much easier to prepare.

 

Is this a good combo of chemicals? I am going to start with Ilford's

recommended times, etc., and move on from there.

 

And, if I want to mix up, lets say, a 1/2 gallon of the 1:4 DDX, how

long will this last?

 

Thanks.

Matt

[wind.dk]

Fine combination of film and developer. Maybe you should add some wetting agent to your order.

 

In my experience, diluted DD-X can keep for weeks, haven't tried months. But I've never mixed more than a liter at once, that's enough for developing three films one at a time.

 

You may want longer development times than the recommended, but you'll figure it out in time.

[shel_belinkoff2]

Hi Matt ...

 

I'm not sure DDX is the best Ilford developer for HP5+ ... others may have more experience with it and that particular film. However, since DDX is a liquid, just mix up what you need for each session. Diluted developers deteriorate rapidly. And, if you're not going to be using the DDX at a pretty good clip, even the stock solution will oxidze rtelatively quickly. I'd suggest ID-11 as it keeps quite well from my experience, and it works well with HP5+, imo.

[andy_piper2]

Matt: Your choices look good to me. IMHE Ilford DDX is the best all-round film developer I've used in 30 years of processing (only discovered it 2-3 years ago myself).

 

You CAN mix DDX in bulk ahead of time - but I prefer to mix just enough for each roll as I go. It is a one-shot developer - you throw it away after using it once, which keeps your processing fresh and consistent. Plus you can mix it to the correct temperature, instead of having to use whatever ambient temp the premixed 1/2G has drifted to.

[chris_waller]

I use a variety of chemicals but Ilford features strongly in my choice (Ilford PQ Universal developer, Ilford Hypam Rapid Fixer). I mix up two litres of stop and fix (separate bottles for film and paper processing) and store these in 2 litre domestic bleach bottles which have been well washed out. These are air-tight and have child-proof safety caps. I also store print developer likewise, topping this up with fresh diluted developer at the end of each session.

[roger_hicks1]

Dear Matt,

 

I really wouldn't mix up your DD-X in advance. Use it one-shot. It's not very expensive to do so. You can keep dilute DD-X for a short while and re-use it (I'll check just how long with Ilford) but one-shot is better for consistency and speed. The true ISO of HP5 Plus in DD-X, incidentally, is about 650, so if you're using a through-lens meter, even 400 should give you excellent shadow detail.

 

If you check my books you'll see that my wife and I use Ilford more than anything else. There are plenty of other good films but I don't think you'll find anything better.

 

Cheers,

 

Roger

[mskovacs]

<p>I used my DDX stop one shot at a time. Keep the lid on tight and store the concentrate in a cool and dark place. My last bottle lasted for 6 months.

 

<p>I've now just switched to <a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">Kodak HC-110</a> for HP5+ based on the comments of Scott Eaton and others. Its dirt cheap (<$10 for concentrate to make 2 US gallons of developer) but I haven't pickled enough film yet to post an informed opinion. I might keep some DDX around for push processing depending on my HC-110 results.

[scott_eaton]

DDX is similiar to HC110 in processing characteristics, and my brief experience with it would indicate it's a good starting point for HP5. Certainly a better soup for this film than Tmax Developer, Rodinal, Ilfosol, or a few others I can think of.

 

Do not pre-mix DDX unless you intend to process a lot of film on a regular basis. Use it as a single shot right out of the bottle.

[rustys pics]

You've made a good choice in HP-5+ and DD-X. DD-X is probably the best film developer out there right now. Try AGFAPAN 100 with it.

My experiences match Roger Hicks' in that HP-5+ clocks in at about 650 for normal shooting, and ISO 800 can be achieved with only about a 10% push. I've never liked HC-110...too contrasty and grainy for my taste, and difficult to mix, but others swear by it. Who knows how long Kodak will continue making it? IMHO Ilford Ltd. will be around churning out fine monochrome products long after the Kodak name has disappeared into history.

 

On a less speculative note, I've had a bottle of DD-X that lasted two years. Just keep the concentrate well sealed with as much air squeezed out as possible, and don't pre-mix it ahead.

[mskovacs]

I guess my big gripe with DD-X was the cost. The 1L bottle doesn't go much farther than 10 tankfuls of 1:4 mix and its one of the most expensive developers on the shelf. I figure HC-110 will be 3-5x cheaper if I'm happy with the final results.

 

For HC-110 I'm measuring with a syringe. Sure I'm a career chemist but this is hardly rocket science. I've been avoiding the powders because I don't want to store large volumes of developer.

[simon evans.]

Ilford's dev times (with the exception of Delta 3200) seem fine for my LPL colour enlarger and Multigrade IV paper.

 

For those using DD-X and looking to economise you could always try using 1+6 or 1+8 dilution instead of the standard 1+4. 1+8 was recommended here sometime, and I know 1+6 was used in an article on DD-X for Photo Techniques (I think it was by Phil Davies, when DD-X was first introduced). He published times and curves in the article, and preferred 1+6 for greater control, IIRC.

 

Sometimes you can try too hard to cut back on spending, and it can become a false economy. I would suggest choosing a developer primarly for its benefits (be they in terms of grain/sharpness/curve etc) over price.

[hans_beckert]

I know nothing of the developer, which apparently has some adherents.

 

the question I have is that you should be thinking about your enlarger as well as everything else, and no mention is made in your post about any equipment. Before you begin devloping film, you should have an enlarger to make prints from the film. Otherwise, how can you tell if the negatives are acceptable?