Which metering system to use

[frederick_lau2]

Nikon's FA, F4, F801, F70, F80, F100, etc. all have matrix metering

modes as well as centre-weighed metering mode, and even spot metering.

 

My questions relate to how to decide which metering system to use :

 

1. Under what situations will the matrix mode gives the best

metering ?

2. Under what situations will the matrix mode fail to meter

correctly ?

3. Will the matrix mode of these cameras gives the same result (or

different model yields different values) ?

4. When to use centre-weighed and when to use matrix mode ?

 

Regarding centre-weighed metering, Nikon's brochure/manual mentioned

that some are 60/40 (e.g. F2, FM2n, etc.) while some are 75/25 (e.g.

F70). Certainly we do not expect a 60/40 will give the same metering

as a 75/25, but among those with the same distribution, 60/40 (e.g.

F2, FM2n, etc.), will they yield the same value ?

 

Could anyone suggest how to use the spot metering system ? Any links

or literature suggested ?

[brushmeister]

Get a book by John Shaw and read it.

[ellis_vener_photography]

Generally with the F5, N90s and digital Nikons I use Matrix 90-95% of the time when I

use the in camera metering system. And I have very few problems -- it is that good.

The other 5% of the time I use spot.

 

All of the cameras you list have different implementations and iterations of Matrix

metering.

 

One thing that really helps is practice. these meters are very good at evaluating light

but lousy at reading minds

[ky2]

You really have to understand that whatever metering system you use, it's just a machine. It can't SEE your perception of the image you are taking; it can only follow general principals and assume its metering something that has an average luminousy. Any scene with a none-average balance would throw automatic metering off-key. A good example is a snow-filled scene. Auto-metering would underexpose a snowy scene-- it's your job to complement the automatic metering of your camera.

 

Take your camera for a short walk outside on a sunny day. Load the camera with ISO 100 slide film. Set your aperture to f/16 and meter lit landscape during the high time of the day. A correct expsure would be 1/125". Now experiment, and check when your meter is fooled-- Try back lit objects. Scenes that are dark gray, or bright white. Take a few shots, and compare each one you take against a manually set exposure of 1/125". You'll find very quickly when your meter is wrong, and apply it to your future shots.

[roto]

I use matrix metering (F80 and F5) when I'm in a hurry. When I have enough time (i.e. the subject is not running, jumping, flying...) I use the spot meter.

 

In my experience the F5 matrix meter is very often within .3 stops from the exposure I would have used. Both cameras agreed very well when I bothered to compare the suggested exposures, although they have completely different matrices.

 

In high contrast situations I can't rely much on the matrix meter: in these conditions both cameras seem to be strongly biased toward exposing for the shadow and let the highlights go where they want. If you shoot slides (as I do) you are out of luck.

 

I never use the center-weighed metering mode.

[nerradchoong]

I only use spot metering, 100% all the time. I never used matrix/ center weighted metering because I don't really know what they are doing, how does the light is evaluated through matrix or center.

 

One thing I'm sure is that without adjustment (increasing/decreasing the exposure) after measuring the normal exposure of a "totally white" subject by using matrix metering, it's off by 1 stop, which means underexposed by 1 stop. Perhaps you should look up the manual of your nikon's camera books, it says that the matrix meter is designed to ease the user without correcting any exposure. That's why I didn't make any changes to the exposure after getting a normal exposure reading from matrix metering.

 

For spot metering, it tells me a normal exposure reading, for example, the reading of normal exposure for a white subject is 1/2000@f8. So by increasing 2 stops to 1/500@f8, that would provide me the correct exposure.

 

I'm sorry if the explanation doesn't go right for you. Hope this help~

[ruriks work]

I no longer have the F90x (N90s)I used spot metering most of the time, particularly because I take animal pictures surounded by landscape and thus I want the animal to have the correct exposure. Also, because most exposure meters (built-in or external) are calibrated for mid-grey, you can often find an object or surface with equivalent reflectivity to take an accurate reading.

I used the matrix when I used flash, and most of the times the pictures were fine.

Having said this, in the infrequent ocassions when I used matrix metering without flash the pictures were generally well exposed, unless there was an extremely bright area in the viewfinder.