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AAARGGGGGHHHHH!!!! 120 film onto steel reel


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I can' seem to do this without looking (tried at least 50+ times),

which of course dosen't work 'cause I can't see in the dark :-).

 

Any clues? Everytime I practice with my eyes closed, the film

binds. I'm using generic SS reels. Are there better choices? What

about the long tube dunk style processing. Anyone doing that in a

home darkroom? Any help would be great.

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Try Hewes SS reels, made in England. Jobo SS reels also are made by Hewes.

 

Unroll the film from the paper backing completely, and tear, don't peel, the tape

holding the film to the paper. Start the tape end of the film into the center of the reel,

the tape stiffens that end of the film and helps to guide it into the first wire. Hewes

reels have a spring clip in the center that holds the film securely.

 

If you still can't get the hang of SS reels, try plastic. Paterson makes a system using

plastic reels that many people swear by.

 

I can't even imagine using long tube dunk style processing with 120 film in a home

darkroom.

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" I can' seem to do this without looking (tried at least 50+ times), which of course dosen't work 'cause I can't see in the dark :-).

 

Any clues? Everytime I practice with my eyes closed, the film binds."

 

Which is why I tend to advocate learning to load a reel with the lights off. You've likely learned some habits by doing it with the lights on. Odds are you don't even know it. The Hewes reels are supposed to be better. The Jobo 2500 plastic reels are a joy to load. I don't know about the 1500 but I assume they aren't much different.

 

Turn the lights off. Relax. And just do it. If you can do it with the lights on you can do it with the lights off. Instead of the visual cues you're depending on now you need to learn the touch cues.

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To paraphrase the movie "The Graduate": "I just want to say one word to you, son: plastic."

 

The keys to using plastic are keeping the reels abosolutely dry (I use a hair dryer), and slightly trimming the corners of the film to round it off. I've used both; I like plastic.

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My first several times I pushed the film onto the reel from the outside in. Because it was so difficult I took another look at the reel and decided it was made so that you attached the film to the inside of the reel with the spring clip and fed it from the inside out. Right or wrong it seems to work much better. (As you can probably tell I am self taught. I applaude your wisdom in seeking help from all these experts). At any rate, cup the film slightly and it will generally ease itself into the grooves as you rotate the reel. If I can do it, you can too. What a wonderful feeling to pull that first roll out and see plenty of light and dark areas right away, confirming that everything happened as planned!
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For even more stiffness at the tape end of the film, don't tear the tape as suggested. Instead, peel the film off the tape and then fold the end of the tape over the end of the film. One thing to watch out for when sliding the film under the little clip is that the film is centered laterally, side to side, inside the reel. Another is that you keep the film oriented straight out of the reel, not slightly angled toward one side or the other. Give this a try, in the light, with the reels you have. You might not need to switch to Hewes or to plastic reels. njb P.s. With plastic reels I find that using a nail clipper to clip off the leading corners of the film makes getting the film started on the reel much easier.
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Ditto the Hewes reels and the stiffening action of the tape.

 

Getting the film centered on the reel and making the first bend are the critical steps. I hold the reel with my thumb inserted in one side of the hub and my middle finger in the other side. That way I can feel the edges of the film and help it make the bend.

 

Three other tips: (1) if the reel has been dropped and is bent, loading will be nearly impossible. (2) 120 film is thinner and more delicate than 35mm. Don't pull too hard. (3) Shut off the water, the fan and the radio and work in total silence. You can tell a lot by the sound of the film going on the reel.

 

It really is like riding a bicycle. Once you get it, you will have the skill for life.

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I've been doing it for over 50 years, and still have problems with 120 film. Just the least little misque and the film kinks and makes little crescent moon marks on the developed film. I find that reels which have a clip to hold the end of the film are worst. My only advice is to practice, practice, practice in the light until you can do it everytime without problems, then do the same in darkness. Good luck.
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Darn it all, it's those blasted generic reels again. The high quality plastic reels are good and they are cheaper than the Hewes reels, but the difference between Hewes reels and the generic SS reels is like night and day. No question about it. Like you, I bought some generic SS reels and went absolutely mad with them. They never seemed to work right. Then I bought a couple of Hewes reels. Never had a problem since.
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Another alternative to the new Hewes reel is to find old steel Nikor reels. Some say "Nikor" or "Honeywell Nikor." These can be found on e*** relatively cheap. I've had very good luck with these and they compare very well to my one Hewes 120 reel. Also, the old Kinderman 120 SS reels aren't bad either.
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Jeff,

 

I would underscore the desirability of using quality SS reels. The lighter gage off-brand models are harder to work with and the clip is awkward and flimsy. I just load a couple of reels this afternoon and had more difficulty than usual. I reckon it was due to the fact that the film had been sitting around for awhile after leaving the camera. When this happens the film has a strong memory for the rolled position, adding to the difficulty of handling it. Hence, I would suggest processing film as soon as possible, or if this is not done, rolling it against the curl on another spool for a few minutes. It�s much nicer to handle without the cast.

 

I don�t like the Patterson style plastic reels for 120. They work well for 35 mm, but I find that 120 doesn�t feed on to them very well.

 

And, practice, practice, practice.

 

Cheers,

 

Joe Stephenson

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hmmmmm, judging from the responses there may be more than one technique used.. Are some of you really pushing the film in from the ends on your steel reels? Thats amazing! <p>

 

Jeff, assuming your generic reels have a clip in the center (like all that I've seen) if you ever so slightly bow the film while you wind it onto (not into) the reel it should go smooth as silk. Takes way less time than loading my plastic 35mm reels. Sometimes I don't line up the channels on the first go but once you figger that out it's smooth sailing. <p>

Cheers,

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Ditto the recommendation for Nikor stainless reels. Just as good as Hewes and often available cheaply on the used market. I recently bought a two-reel Nikor tank, lid/cap, a pair of 120 reels with reel lifter, in the box for five bucks. Top notch quality.

 

Nothing wrong with plastic reels, tho'. I use both.

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With 35 MM film you can pull the leader out of the can, attach it to the reel in the light. (after squaring off the leader) When in the dark pop the can and remove the film. Keep a slight bow on the film and wind as usual...It was a big help for me, I know that the paper wrapped films are a different animal..

 

Joe

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You have gotten some good tips here but one more may help... once you have the film clipped, put the reel down on a table and just slowly roll it on it's side. The film seems to just go into the reel. Check for slight play and if it doesn't have about 1/4 to 1/2" play you have a kink. Unwind the film until you get that play again.
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I feel your pain, buddy. I've spent what seems like hours fumbling and fiddling trying to get the damn film to go onto the reel (and I use plastic reels).

<p>Last night I disoovered something that seems to make the whole process much easier. The hangup has always been getting that curled leading edge to go into--and STAY IN--the groove. Last night I took the end and reverse-rolled it, just about 3/4" or so. I was afraid I may have gone too far and ruined the last frame on the roll, but 'twasn't so. It went on <b>easily</b> for a change!

<p>Of course, I don't know if this will do anything for you if you use metal reels; you might want to give plastic a try.

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So I bought a couple of 1520 tanks with reels from BH. I practiced once in the light, once in the changing bag and thought, damn, I can do this! Put two rolls in the bag and the tank and reel. Of course now the pressure is on! Fumbled a couple of times, starting to sweat (OK, it is about 100 degrees out) thinking I'll sacrifice another roll when finally viola! Getting cocky, I load the next, much easier. I've now got two rolls of 120 on one reel. Process, develop, no problems (not true overdeveloped, I've got great PT/PD negs if someone wants them. Anyway, the reels do the job.

 

thanks,

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