WD2D+ Developer

[sajjad]

Hi All , just lately i am reading alot about W2D2 as an excellent

Developer, can some throw some light on this please , and where can

i get it, and which trade name does it come under?....Regads to all

[magic1]

The newer version is WD2D+ and be gotten at Photographers' Formulary www.photoformulary.com (you can get the original version there also. I highly recommend their TF-4 fixer for any Pyro based developer and using a water stop bath instead of acid. Acid is the enemy of the pyro stain.

[tim obrien]

While Steve is correct in the PMK world, John Wimberley states that a normal fix with acid stop bath will not harm images developed in W2D2+. I wouldn't know, I always use TF-4 fixer with a water stop when using W2D2+. My local photo shop carries a lot of the Photographers' Formulary stuff and occasionally a setup of W2D2+ finds it way there. The stuff goes a long way. The directions included with the developer are awsome.

 

So far, the best combination I have found is 4x5 Agfa APX100 with W2D2+ shot at about E.I. 80. Amazing tones from shadows to highlights. Too bad Agfa is ceasing production of this film.

 

Other films that look good are old emulsion Tri-X, Fujipan 400 and Classic 200 from J+C. Films that don't seem to make much difference between W2D2+ and Rodinal 1+50 are Efke25, PanF, and Efke100.

 

tim in san jose

[jon_shiu]

Hi, I'm using WD2D+ with HP5+ rated at 200, developed in a combiplan tank. I'm getting very flat highlights when printed on Ilford MGIV. Tried extending development time, but got too much general stain (fog). It seems like this developer compresses high values. I generally shoot landscapes in subdued light.

[tim_curry]

Jon,

I've been using a different pryo developer (PMK), but from what I've read, HP5 has a tendency to "pile up on the shoulder" more than some films which are a bit slower (or is it Tri-x). I have the same problem with landscapes in flat light. I've found about an extra stop in development works well for me in these conditions, as it tends to give more life to the image and reduces the need for higher contrast papers.

 

My direction has been in slower films, mainly Efke 25 this last year while I'm learning some B&W basics. While shooting at asa 12 does present limits on wind and light, this film can be developed for better highlights by simply extending times without problems. Try a slower film with better latitude in development (J&C 200, Efke 100, etc.) and see if you have better luck. The older style thick emulsion films have a little bit more leeway in these conditions.

 

Sajjad,

You may find getting the bulk chemicals and mixing your own solutions is the way to go. Find the formula on a web site to begin. If you have access to a highschool or junior college lab, a scale, some beakers and dry chemicals, it is pretty easy to mix what you need. It is certainly cheaper in the long run to do it yourself. If not, Artcraft or Photographer's Formulary can usually mix anything you may need.

[tim obrien]

I have posted an image, using W2D2+ with Agfa APX100 in my folder.

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo.tcl?photo_id=1865779

 

Amazing. Someone posted last week about not getting enough comments/ ratings... Me, I don't want, nor need comments or especially ratings, they mean jack when you haven't seen the real print... but yet someone rated it. Huh?

 

Oh well, you can see that even though the upper and lower zones have been compressed by the JPG format, there is still an amazing amount of tonality in this combination. The original contact shows much more detail in the dark trees in the foregroud and in the skyline (with a snow cover) in the background.

 

tim in san jose

[patrick_gainer]

While we're talking about fixers, I use TF-4 concentrate, 1 ounce per 8 of developer, and add it to the developer at the end of the scheduled time. This stops development, and after 3 minutes for TMY the fixing is complete. Even with PMK there is no need for alkali after bath. The TF-4 concentrate looks like evidence for a rape case, but it dissolves in the developer. It is one shot, of course, but it is convenient and assures the same strength of fixer each time. If there is no room in the tank, pour out as much developer as you plan to add of fixer.

[patrick_gainer]

I should have mentioned for Jon that HP5+ is not by nature a high contrast film. If it is overexposed, it has even less headroom. Meters and meter users vary, of course, but I use HP5+ with my Canon's meter set at 400. When I am being careful, I use my Luna Pro set at 1600 and measure significant shadows which are about 2 stops down from Zone V I guess.

 

HP5+ will not go above CI of about 0.6 with Rodinal 1+50 or with HC110.