j landry Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 I recently picked up a Diana camera and was wondering if anyone has any idea of the correct development time for the film. I would be using Tri-x 400 120 film and developing it at 68 degrees using Sprint chemicals. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ann_clancy3 Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 It won't be any different than any other 120 film. Depending on what light source you are using in your enlarger you may need to develop a little longer to increase contrast, however, I would not do that until after you run a few rolls and print the negatives. Check the massivedevelop chart for times with Sprint. With HC110 solution b we have been using 6.5 minutes at 68. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim obrien Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 You first start with a prebath of 96% hydrochloric acid @ 112 degrees F, develop standard after that.<p> tim in san jose<p> <i>(Moderator's note: This is a joke. Do not do this. Unless you enjoy dangerous jokes.)</i><p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen hazelton Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 As I recall, hydrochloric acid doesn't come in any stronger strength than about 37% or so- unlike some acids (sulfuric, nitric) that can be 100% pure acid. In any case, I don't remember the hot acid bath being in Kodak's instructions, so not sure what the intent of that previous post was. Maybe the point is, you shouldn't develop film from a Diana? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim obrien Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 You're right. 37% will have to do. tim in san jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ann_clancy3 Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 I thought I had sent a message earlier regarding the use of a pre bath in acid. But it has either been deleted or out is space some place. Could someone please enlighten me as to why you would treat the film from a Diane Camera with this pre-bath? In fact, using this method is totaly foreign to me and I have been doing darkroom work for over 55 years. Just interested in learning something new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 I'm pretty sure Tim is pulling our legs here. No idea how to process Tri-X in Sprint after running the film through a Diana because I don't know what that camera's exposure settings are. I suspect they vary wildly between samples. I'd use some form of compensating developer, either highly dilute Rodinal with stand development, Diafine or possibly even Microphen. That's what I did recently to evaluate whether an Agfa Isolette folder was even in the ballpark in terms of shutter accuracy. While a compensating developer won't deliver the best possible negs it will at least help ensure that some negs are printable in the absence of any other data. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ann_clancy3 Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 Thanks Lex, that was my first thought, perhaps a little poke at Diane cameras. But then you know what they say about assuming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen hazelton Posted October 29, 2003 Share Posted October 29, 2003 If you do try the acid, be sure to have your gloves, goggles, face mask, and ventilation system on hand first. Hydrochloric acid is hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, and when you start heating it, you'd get some seriously corrosive/ unbreathable fumes coming off of it. I have no idea what effect it would have on film- assume it would destroy it, but the plastic base might be immune to the acid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pascal_miele Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 For your Diana use TX or Tmax 400 and D76 ou other similar dev. If the Sprint dev is a compensating developer no problem. The Diana is just a big camera&film.... no choice for exposure. The film must have a very large exposure range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_gruber Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 Never used a Diana but shot exclusively with a Holga for a year or two. If it's anything like a Holga (aperture around f 10 and shutter speed around 1/125th at least at first) you need to be aware of your shooting conditions. Basically if you are shooting in bright sunlight, use a slower film like FP4. If you are shooting in cloudy bright kinda conditions, Tri-X in HC-110 for 6-7 minutes works pretty well. Your best bet is to use film with lots of latituted like Tri-X and push or pull the developement to compensate for the lighting. It's a good exercise as it teaches you alot about film, developing and judging light. If you can, try and shoot a whole roll at a time under the same lighting conditions so that you can just adjust development times for the whole roll. Good luck. I'm sure you will get some good shots and learn a tremendous amount in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nico_. Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 Shoot XP2 and forget all your sorrows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.w. Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 Try this for fun: HCl + H2O2 (that is, hydrochloric acid mixed with hydrogen peroxide). The yellowish-green cloud you'll see, prior to the onset of respiratory failure, is chlorine gas. It can happen with water, too; just not as violently. Remember reading about the trenches of WWI? Yep, same stuff. Speaking of violent reactions, don't attempt to mix water into acid; always mix acids into water. The reaction is like a violent steam explosion as the water/acid mixture vaporizes. The HCl will most likely eat the emulsion completely off the film base, as most metals dissolve easily in HCl. Although I appreciate the intended humour regarding the Diana camera, we should probably keep in mind that there are neophytes to film processing logging in here all the time; without the appropriate disclaimers, such stabs at joviality could, as they say, blow up in someone's face ... pun intended! Remember: never underestimate the ability of a newbie to follow your instructions to the tee (or to mess up your instructions equally well); the naive have no built-in safe guard systems. That's why they need mentors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkpainter Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 Guys...I laughed so hard I nearly split my Pocket Protector! Lex, not to be a prude..but it doesn't seem apropriate to have Chemistry jokes on this forum that could result in serious injury. Many people that read this forum can barely understand English.... jmp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 Awright. Sorry to spoil a good joke with explication but I've added a disclaimer to Tim's "advice." Frankly, I'm surprised he didn't simply suggest boiling the entire camera in a hot acid bath. But it was, after all, Tim's joke, not mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim obrien Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 OK people. Disclaimer. It WAS an editorial comment on Diana cameras. Do NOT use 37% Hydrochloric acit on your film. Please. tim in san jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_redmann Posted October 31, 2003 Share Posted October 31, 2003 The most concentrated commercially-produced aqueous solution of hydrochloric acid of which I am aware is 23º acid, which is about 37%. Not something you want to play with at home. As to any camera with a fixed aperture and shutter speed, you need to do some tests under controlled conditions to determine what the shutter and aperture are, and then choose a film for which that combination will create exposures roughly in the right range, then process the film normally, push, or pull, depending on the specifics. If you determine that the camera has a shutter speed of 1/100 s and an effective aperture of f/11, then 100-speed film will be about right on for a soft-shadows day, front-lit picture. If you have dark overcast skies or will be shooting in shade, try 400-speed film. And if your conditions differ, you might have to push or pull a stop or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_le_fevre Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Because there's wrong info out there: I discovered the Diana's true apertures are f11 f13 & f19, and it takes 32mm clip on filters. The Diana Deluxe- f9 f16 & f22, and it takes a 46-49mm step-up ring. Typically a crisp shutter runs at about 1/100th, a slower one at about 1/50th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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