4X5 question- Tank?

[bruce_appel]

I have recently gotten my old speed graphic out, and want to play

with some 4X5 again. Last time I did 4X5 I had a proper darkroom, and

did the negatives in trays. I now lack a darkroom, but I do have an

old Yankee 4X5 tank. It looks like this can be used in daylight, very

similar to a reel tank, but bigger and clunkier.

My questions are, how do you agitate, as it has no cap where the

solutions go in? How do you adjust for the filling/emptying time?

My next question is about film.My favorite medium format film is APX

100 in Rodinol. I have worked up procedures that work very well with

this combo. Is the 4X5 version any different? I realize I will need

to adjust things for the camera, lens, scanner, etc, but if the film

is the same as in 120 I should already be pretty darn close.

[robert_davis2]

Well I process 35mm,120 and 4x5 APX in the same jobo tank. It may not be the smartest thing but I get printable negatives.

[skygzr]

Hi Bruce,

 

I've tried those Yankee tanks and eventually gave up on them. I ALWAYS got uneven negatives, no matter what I did.

 

You might have better luck....try a few sheets and see.

[dave_t]

<i>My favorite medium format film is APX 100 in Rodinal ...

<p>

Excellent</i> combination in sheet film

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<i>It looks like this can be used in daylight, very similar to a reel tank, but bigger and clunkier</i>

<p>

Oh yes, much bigger, much clunkier.

<p>

<i>how do you agitate, as it has no cap where the solutions go in? </i>

<p>

I rock from side to side, along the sheets. Almost always get uneven development on the edges but I've found no way around that.

<p>

<i>How do you adjust for the filling/emptying time? </i>

<p>

Doesn't look like it would, but the tank actually fills and drains quite quickly. Doesn't look light tight either, but it is. It takes a ton of chemistry, and it sloshes all over the place, and you can't get even development. If I were to give one piece of advice on using the Yankee tank, it would be to put it in a catapult and fling it as far away as possible. Cheap, not worth the money. Supposedly the Combi is better ...

[bruce_appel]

So, if the Yankee tank is a dud, other than open trays, what is the best way to go about proccessing 4X5 film?

[richard_urmonas]

I use a Jobo 2500 series tank with the 2509 "reels". This combination

is designed to use in a Jobo machine, but originally I used to just

roll it up and down the table (with the wide part of the lid

hanging over the edge to keep the drum level).

[ken_schroeder]

Bruce, Eugene Singer of this forum has written a very good online article about using the combi tank in a dip and dunk fashion. All three tanks fit into a plastic dishtub. I'm an old diehard tray developer....but I have to admit Eugene's method makes a lot of sense. It doesn't require a lot of space, and the combi allows intermittent agitation, which the Jobo does not. Sorry I don't have the link. Maybe Eugene will chime in or e-mail him.

[john_cook1]

Here's the link for Eugene Singer's article:

 

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/alternative-developing/

 

I have developed thousands of sheets this way since 1967. It is the ONLY method I have ever found that works perfectly. It's absolutely foolproof.

 

Take the tray of tanks into a closet somewhere to do the developing. Mix the chemicals and wash the film at the kitchen sink.

[robert_davis2]

Actually there is no reason you can't use anything from stand to contstant agiation with a jobo 2500 series. Just fill the tank up with chemicals. Obviously you'll lose one of the advantages of jobo tanks [low chemical use] but with B&W you're likely always using alot more chemicals then the min claimed by Jobo.

[scott_walton2]

Bruce, I tried the Yankee's twice and didn't care for them right off the bat. I

process with single 4x5 SS hangers and years ago had SS tanks made that I

can do up to 30 sheets at a time. I just prefer the way I can agitate with them

and always get smooth and even results. As far as the same, the emulsions

should be close but a test run is in order to make sure. I'm a real stickler on

advising test runs. This way you work out any glitches and there are no

surprises. The tones may be smoother but there is a chance that your "same"

emulsion may become denser or not with the same soup.

[tim_curry]

I'm using PMK Pyro with the "clunky" tank. I was told by a professional that the tank would not wok well and especially not with PMK. I use Tri-x and Efke 25. Both have the same agitation cycle which is 1:00 constant agitation, followed by cycles of 15 seconds until completion. Side to side motion, twisting and the occasional verticle shake and thump. Make sure you start with a full tank!

 

I use a timer and allow for full time in the tank, then pour out after the timer dings. Just use a consistent method and stick to it. If I am pushing development, I am careful to dump as fast as possible into another vessel (PMK for second soak).

 

Excellent results. No light leaks after the film is in, but I am careful with lights and don't let any light shine directly into the opening. No problems, even with PMK which can have streaking problems due to inconsistent agitation.

[michael_chini]

I use tupperware containers I bought from a $1 store. I have 4 of them. I use hangers and usually develop 6 sheets at a time. I have had no problems at all. I use Rodinal, ID11 and FG7 all with excellent results. No streaks, scratches etc.

[chris_waller]

Go for the Jobo 2500.

[leonard_evens]

Many of us use Unicolor or Beseler 8 x 10 color print drums. These work best if you have a motor base. Both the drums and motor bases may be found regularly on ebay. I use the Beseler drum and I can process up to four sheets at a time using about 6-8 oz of each solution. I get very evenly developed negatives without defects. www.largeformatphotography.info has some information on using the Unicolor drum for this purpose.